I SHOT WOODY....not really, but I might--starting issues again

[WoodyHank]

Okay, Woody just came home from the mechanics. RAN GREAT, really powerful, I could tell the difference. He got a new timing chain, new radiator, new water pump, fuel sender sock put back on, compression check, and a friend & I had already done new belts, new spark plugs, filters, etc. New everything. I drove up to my house. Parked. Ran inside to grab my checkbook. Went back out. Won't start. He turns over, but it's just not happening...I called the mechanic. He started to cry almost. I read my manual- he's definitely turning over, not starting, number of things listed. One clue: when this happened a couple of weeks ago, I waited a while, he started right up. He's making me crazy. I love him, but I hate him, and I may shoot him. what's this a sign of (besides FSJ ownership). Has anyone ever had this happen (the starting issue, not the wanting to shoot issue)? UPDATE: An hour later, I went out, he started right up. That's gotta be a clue.

[ October 28, 2003, 09:14 PM: Message edited by: WoodyHank ]

[LRRH]

sounds like a choke issue. does it only happen when the jeep is warm??

if so.....floor the skinny pedal and try starting it. If it works.....tell the mechanic he should have checked the choke too.

[WoodyHank]

You may be right. I checked my book, problems starting when hot and the culprit can be choke sticking, but I've floored the gas and nada. So one of the other options listed is clogged fuel tank vent lines caused by vapor lock (sounds like the most expensive, so that's probably it) Other possible causes: float level too high & defective pickup coil in distributor. It's only happened twice (I thought you guys were all lying about your jeep starting problems till now ;) ) and both times, engine nice and warm...I'm going thru the manual but could use some help ruling out the other choices

[ October 28, 2003, 09:18 PM: Message edited by: WoodyHank ]

[Crash_AF]

Have you checked the ballast resistor in the ignition circuit? It might be breaking down and when it gets hot, it won't allow sufficient voltage to the coil to start. Try jumping 12V straight to the coil to rule this out.

Another thing you can try to see if the problem is a fuel or ignition problem is take the fuel line off and put it in a gallon jug then take an empty 90wt oil bottle and use a short piece of fuel line to manually feed the carb. Fill the float bowl with the bottle and try to start, if it still won't start, the issue isn't the fuel system.

Good luck, I hate trying to troubleshoot no start issues on gas motors (I'm a diesel mechanic).

Later,
Joe H

[J20 project]

It's not unheard of for a ecm box to get hot and not let it start. Had a friend w/ a f%$# f250 which would start after sitting about 20 mins. Jeeps generally have a mofo dizzy and ecm.
J20

[WoodyHank]

uhm, hate to sound stupid here, but what's an ecm box? redface.gif
I think it's a fuel issue 1) it HAS happened once when he'd been sitting a day & we DID feed gas straight to the carb & guess what? STARTED He thought he was out of gas, I got 5 gallons, brought it home, he started...drove him to the station, filled the rest of the way. Diagnosis: fuel sender and the sock had fallen off, so I think that might have been part of it, but
2) it's happened two times when hot. Wait an hour, badaboombadabing, he starts
only thing that is on all 3 diagnosis lists that has to do with fuel is : "fuel not reaching carb, make sure tank vent lines aren't clogged..."
whatdaya think so far guys?

[ October 28, 2003, 10:12 PM: Message edited by: WoodyHank ]

[Retro93]

uhm, hate to sound stupid here, but what's an ecm box?
Nope..not stupid...just don't know what it is. smile.gif

It is the little silver "box" on the drivers side fender well. Usually says "Motorcraft" on it's top. Good idea to replace it and keep the old one in the back as a spare. They are notorious for going bad at the worst possible time. About $20 at AutoZone. [Oh..you can do this one yourself..it's plug and play. smile.gif ]

[WoodyHank]

retro!! I was BORN in Morehead KY!! Rowan County!! Cool smile.gif Oh, the ignition module (i'd never heard ecm...and yep, I'm going to get about 700 of them

[ October 28, 2003, 10:17 PM: Message edited by: WoodyHank ]

[Retro93]

Metro??? LOL smile.gif We moved here about 4 months ago. Great to get out of the Republik of Kalifornia. Bought a house out on Flemingsbug Road...we're almost in Fleming County. Love it here! When did you leave?

[WoodyHank]

Left? pretty soon after I was born. Moved to San Bernardino ca with my parents (I was too young to be on my own still ;) oooh, I corrected to Retro

I edited above post re: fuel issues. But knowing Woody it is fuel issues and ignition module! more money that way...I look at his grill, and all I see is my visa card...

[bigun]

now that would be an interesting paint scheme I wonder if visa would pay you for it

[WoodyHank]

:D :D :D :D :D

[rfortney]

DO you have a new carb also? I had the same problem with a new carb I was told by the shop that fixed it and put the new carb in that the choke was working in reverse and that a spring needed turned around??? after I got it back it has worked great.

[talntar]

act.an ecm is the computer in new cars.what we have could be called an icm.

[WoodyHank]

No new carb, but I'm sure Woody'll want one since they cost money ;)

[FSJ Thing]

Woodyhank! Don't shoot it! It will get better! Seriously, if it's heat related, it is most likely a fuel problem, but Wagothing had the exact same problem! It sounds like typical vapor lock, shut off when hot, and the sucker will crank and crank until the battery is dead and never start. After it sits about half an hour and I'd pump the gas, it would start. For some reason, when I converted to HEI (Chebby ignition, goes where the distributor is) the problem wasn't as bad, which was wierd because it has nothing to do with the carb, so I think it was a combination of hot ignition coil and fuel evaporating out of the carb. A few weeks later I installed a 1" spacer and the problem went away entirely. The ignition upgrade was $40 bucks because I did it my self with a dremel, and the spacer was a chunk of cedar that I cut and drilled to fit between the carb and the intake. The fixes are not expensive, they are just unorthodox. Don't give up on us girl, we're here for you! So when are you moving and were to? I forgot, but you need to get closer to some other members so they can give yuh a hand with this stuff!

[WoodyHank]

Well, Matt & Wagothing, I would love some lessons! I got the ignition module (although I am almost 100% on the fuel related issue...it happened again this a.m. after dog park and it was on a hill..everytime it has been on a hill when this happened!) so I went to put it in but I couldn't get it loose! It's too tight! I've got the right tools, but I can't get it undone redface.gif redface.gif redface.gif the mechanic said he's swing by and take a look but still, how embarrassing!

I was thinking about Missoula, Montana or maybe NoCal but don't know how I can afford a house and Woody in NoCal...the whole road trip story is in an email, pm me if you want the sordid stuff ;)

[FSJ Thing]

You've been PMed! I'd like to hear the story!

[Rust Farmer]

You need to narrow down the problem. Your engine only needs two things to run, fuel and spark. Your no-start condition is due to no fuel or no spark.

Buy a spray can of starting fluid for a buck. Next time it won't start remove the cover from the air cleaner and spray a couple of seconds of starting fluid into the carb. Then try starting again. If it starts your problem is due to no fuel (i.e. vapor lock or somthing like that). If it still does not start then you have no spark (i.e. some electrical ignition part is getting heat soaked and not working).

Don't get discouraged, this should not be an expensive repair. You will be able to save some money if you can narrow down the problem before you start thtowing parts at it.

Good luck

RF