View Full Version : 229 Strength and Locked front Q's
CutterN55
08-19-2010, 10:43 AM
Couple Q's
-Will a 229 hold up with a spooled or welded (preferably spooled) front diff? I'd love to go to a 208 if I can, but not for a while and I'll need this 229 for a little while longer.
-Anybody running this setup?
-I've swapped in Warn manual hubs in the front.
-How's the steering in 4WD?
-I've heard it will turn like a bus, but you can unlock the hub on one side (3WD?) and make tight turns if needed...any truth to this?
Thanks guys
El_Diablo
08-19-2010, 09:31 PM
a welded or spooled front end will quickly demolish your steering system as you know it unless you atleast go with hydro assist and even then your radius sucks
whats it primarily used for? what type of driving and what type of off roading?
CutterN55
08-19-2010, 10:15 PM
Yeah I figured I'd need a hydro assist eventually, I can do a junk yard setup I'm sure.
Non-highway DD (for now) used for all types of wheeling, I'm not into mud much anymore, but if there's a hole on the trail....
Pulled to Uwharrie last summer and was all over until my rad blew up.
I travel all over the country for work and wheel wherever I can. I'm going back to San Diego if I get the chance. I'm just looking for an all around capable rig on a budget and I need some more traction. I don't want to throw an auto locker in the rear, I hate them on the pavement, maybe down the road when I'm not driving it daily. I like to know how my jeep is going to act and not have to anticipate the lock-up. A selectable locker would be sweet, but I just don't have the funds.
I thought maybe I could do the front since I have the hubs and my fronts seemed to be the ones not spinning the most when I I've been on the rocks, climbing, stuff like that.
SVO42
08-20-2010, 05:38 PM
Since you plan on driving on the street at all I would highly recommend against welding the front gears or putting a spool in it. You'll hate it. Also, the only way your NP229 would survive is to always leave it in 4-low. The viscous coupler in it is active in 2-hi and 4-hi and would likely be destroyed in short order.
What rear locker(s) have you had before? I think they're fine, at least the Lock Right in my Explorer was. If you're going to keep the NP229 I'd put limited slips in both axles. If you're going to swap to the NP208 then I'd put a Detroit Locker or Powertrax No-Slip in the rear. For the front, it depends. If you need 4-hi on pavement much I'd leave the front open or put a limited slip in it. If you don't then I'd put a lunchbox locker in it. Of course, selectables are the shiznit but also cost $$$.
fulsizjeep
08-20-2010, 06:08 PM
A friend in Denver area welded his front D44 on a GW with 229 & 35s & manual hubs. He hated it so much he soon had the spiders replaced and went back to open. May have gone to a limited slip but he sold it not long after. I think the 229 will hold up if you lock it in 4L.
Casey
08-20-2010, 07:22 PM
I think the 229 will hold up if you lock it in 4L.
I agree. It's just as good as the 208 when in low range. Never shift out of 4lo. :thumbsup:
:fsj:
CutterN55
08-21-2010, 12:48 PM
Since you plan on driving on the street at all I would highly recommend against welding the front gears or putting a spool in it. You'll hate it. Also, the only way your NP229 would survive is to always leave it in 4-low. The viscous coupler in it is active in 2-hi and 4-hi and would likely be destroyed in short order.
What rear locker(s) have you had before? I think they're fine, at least the Lock Right in my Explorer was. If you're going to keep the NP229 I'd put limited slips in both axles. If you're going to swap to the NP208 then I'd put a Detroit Locker or Powertrax No-Slip in the rear. For the front, it depends. If you need 4-hi on pavement much I'd leave the front open or put a limited slip in it. If you don't then I'd put a lunchbox locker in it. Of course, selectables are the shiznit but also cost $$$.
Uh...in 2WD the front drive shaft is not engaged...unless I'm completely wrong... other wise the front ds would turn with my hubs UNlocked. Correct?
Why will I hate it in 2wd on the pavement with the hubs unlocked? I shouldn't even feel it right?
Will my steering still be affected in 2wd and hubs unlocked?
As far as past auto lockers, I don't remember what it was for sure(in my old SOA Wrangler on 33's) everytime I'd go around a curve or turn and touch the gas at all, dang thing would catch and I'd be headed for the ditch, or the tires would be barking. Wanna say it was a Detroit rear.
v10sport
08-21-2010, 01:04 PM
With the front hubs unlocked it doest matter if you are open, locked, or welded for turning
CutterN55
08-21-2010, 01:09 PM
With the front hubs unlocked it doest matter if you are open, locked, or welded
That's what I thought...as far as diffs and T-cases go. What about the steering? What is it that makes the steering such an issue when locked in 4? I have experienced the issue many times...but why does it do that?
SVO42
08-21-2010, 01:20 PM
If you swap in the NP208 you won't have to worry.
With the NP229 you can have problems. Even though it is "2-hi" there is still engagement of the VC. If you unlock the hubs and drive around with the NP229 you will burn up the VC. Do a search and you will find many threads about this.
CutterN55
08-21-2010, 01:39 PM
Well I'll leave the front diff alone for now...I've been wanting to do the 208 swap, but there aren't any around here and I need one on the cheap. If I grenade this 229 or one fall sin my lap...I'll do the swap. I'm rolling with a cut-down and welded drive shaft (not balanced) hence the hubs... so this is what I've got for now.
CutterN55
08-21-2010, 03:42 PM
Since you plan on driving on the street at all I would highly recommend against welding the front gears or putting a spool in it. You'll hate it. Also, the only way your NP229 would survive is to always leave it in 4-low. The viscous coupler in it is active in 2-hi and 4-hi and would likely be destroyed in short order.
What rear locker(s) have you had before? I think they're fine, at least the Lock Right in my Explorer was. If you're going to keep the NP229 I'd put limited slips in both axles. If you're going to swap to the NP208 then I'd put a Detroit Locker or Powertrax No-Slip in the rear. For the front, it depends. If you need 4-hi on pavement much I'd leave the front open or put a limited slip in it. If you don't then I'd put a lunchbox locker in it. Of course, selectables are the shiznit but also cost $$$.
Aren't the Dana's already Limited Slip with the track-lok diffs?
Whatever is in there, they suck, front and back. I guess I'll spool the rear and run locker in the front when I have the funds.
Only reason I'm asking all this is I rolled with an XJ on W/T 44's and he had mini-spools in the front and rear and he kicked my butt all over the mountain.
El_Diablo
08-21-2010, 07:32 PM
i have a lunch box locker in the rear of my wag, not a problem so far and its been nearly a year since i put it in with the 229
duncanstives
08-25-2010, 09:40 PM
I have a lunch box in the front... Ran it for a good while with a 229... The 229 held up fine... It was not until the driveshaft let go and killed the case that I had issues...
If you have locking hub a welded front would not be noticable on road and your 229 will not be harmed IF you keep it in 2wd. It will be terrible offroad though... Traction will be fine but steering will be aweful and your steering box and pump will be shot in short order.
CutterN55
08-25-2010, 09:49 PM
As far as steering, I am accumulating parts for the EMS Hydro Assist advertised on Pirate. I've got a spare steering box I can take the caps off the get modded, and I can still drive mine while I wait on parts. I won't do anything with the front diffs until I figure out steering.
Anybody got any input on a good and affordable ram to use?
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