All was well until...smoke from the dash

[newwagwheeler]

Ok So I am driving down the highway, very happy with my 88 GW and all of my modifications. Feeling like... well... kinda proud. Then it happened. With a very sudden belt squeeling from the new 150 amp alternator, the voltage meter dropped to zero and smoke started pouring from behind the dash. I quickly made it to the side of the road and turned the ignition off. The smoke subsided as I stumbled from the cab. Popped the hood to find that nothing was wrong. Reached in and turned the ignition on and the smoke began again. Got a tow back to the house and began the hunt. I found that the wire that let the smoke out was attached to a plug on top of the steering column, can not tell where it goes from there. This is the beginning of the burn trail. The wire then proceeds through the firewall, over the tranny and attaches to what looks like a solenoid that is attached to a hose that goes to the carb... other end goes to the charcoal cannister. After discovering the wire end to end, I cut it at the carb end and for kicks started the Jeep. Everything was back to normal. No I am not ready to take it back on the road. Any thoughts?

[The Colonel]

That sounds like the orange wire that goes to the choke. The carb choke may be shorted out. According to the wiring diagram that orange wire is a separate circuit only for the choke, carb solenoid and evap solenoid. It should be a easy circuit to repair if it didn't damage too many other wires. Only the fusible link that protects the entire ignition switch is the safety, may want to add an additional fusible link of fuse on that circuit.

[Millerluck]

Had the same thing happen on my 89. Truck died with smoke from under the dash.

I have a 4350 carb in it with the coolant hose for warming the choke.

I didn't take care of the old choke wire and it fell and melted to the the exhaust manifold.

Been fine now that I zip tied it back.

Larry Miller

[timeflies]

Exact same problem I had! Daggum orange wire.....fun.

[newwagwheeler]

Pretty sure the wire goes to some kind of device that is inline on the hose that goes from the carb to the charcoal canister, not to the choke.

[PlasticBoob]

Yikes! And here I thought only the old ammeter-equipped rigs went up in smoke! :eek:

[CJ the noisemaker]

Had the same problem this morning except that my wires to the ammeter were not hooked properly and were shorting out.

I have to replace the dash, engine, and headlight harnesses before I get back full functionality in Setsuna.

Oh, and I will do the ammeter bypass so it doesn't happen again.

[FSJ Guy]

That sounds like the orange wire that goes to the choke. The carb choke may be shorted out. According to the wiring diagram that orange wire is a separate circuit only for the choke, carb solenoid and evap solenoid. It should be a easy circuit to repair if it didn't damage too many other wires. Only the fusible link that protects the entire ignition switch is the safety, may want to add an additional fusible link of fuse on that circuit.

That's EXACTLY what happened.

You'll need to replace the choke/solenoid wire (duh) as well as the wiring under the dash. For good measure, I'd replace the ignition switch (under the dash on top of the steering column), too.

As mentioned, the choke/solenoid wire is NOT PROTECTED by a regular fuse. Just a fusible link.

I'd replace the fusible link, too. It may now be worn and ready to go at any moment. If it goes out, you are DEAD IN THE WATER.

How did this happen? Most likely because the wiring got too close to the exhaust manifold and burned through the insulation. Then it started to short out against the engine.

BTDT.

[newwagwheeler]

Wow this is great advise. There is definitely some serious PO hacking that has to be undone here. What is the solenoid/ valve/ some kind of small metal canister that this wire is attached to? The choke seems to be on a different wire, but again lots of PO hacking.

[timeflies]

That's EXACTLY what happened.



How did this happen? Most likely because the wiring got too close to the exhaust manifold and burned through the insulation. Then it started to short out against the engine.

BTDT.

I thought I was the only one! We can put together a support group now. GW owners need to know that they are not alone. When the harness touches the manifold it doesnt mean she doesnt love you. It just means that the factory workers are laughing at you. I didn't have to replace the Ignition switch on mine, but everything under the hood was toasty. I think they are all hacked at some point.

[Rod2]

I thought I was the only one! We can put together a support group now. GW owners need to know that they are not alone. When the harness touches the manifold it doesnt mean she doesnt love you. It just means that the factory workers are laughing at you. I didn't have to replace the Ignition switch on mine, but everything under the hood was toasty. I think they are all hacked at some point.
That orange wire cost me a new switch, new (used) harness, inside and out, new alternator, and a month's worth of diagnosing and fixing.
And I thought I was the only one.

[Mark Wilde]

It's not the choke. From what he describes, it's the carb purge solenoid. Either the solenoid failed and shorted or the wire chafed and grounded to something.

You don't need it, unless you're in an emissions area.

[The Colonel]

It's not the choke. From what he describes, it's the carb purge solenoid. Either the solenoid failed and shorted or the wire chafed and grounded to something.

You don't need it, unless you're in an emissions area.

Yes, it's on the same circuit as the choke. (orange wire)

[FSJ Guy]

Yes, it's on the same circuit as the choke. (orange wire)

Exactly. These two items are fed by the same wire. The same wire that IS NOT FUSED at the fuseblock.

My harness is zip tied FAR AWAY from the exhaust manifolds now.

[andy d]

yup I learned about ratty looms and exhaust manifolds on my old 88 :banghead:

[newwagwheeler]

Well that wire has been removed and the jeep now runs fine. Except the AC no longer works. No power to the panel it seems... for ac or heat. At least it goes down the road now... by itself.
You guys rock!

[FSJ Guy]

Well that wire has been removed and the jeep now runs fine. Except the AC no longer works. No power to the panel it seems... for ac or heat. At least it goes down the road now... by itself.
You guys rock!

The wire you took out goes from the ignition switch to the heater blower motot fuse. It also goes (UN-FUSED) to the choke wire. When the choke wire fries and you remove it, you've now removed the heater blower motor's source of power.

[710 Burner]

I'm pretty sure Flint had a problem with the same said wire on Wally. Yup, gotta watch those manifolds.