Stuck drum

[xj2fsj]

I cannot seem to get the drum of the passenger side rear axle off!! I did the other side a few months ago and I don't remember having this problem. The Chiltons says I may have to reset the adjustor if it's stuck (this is in the directions for front drum setups) but if the drum is still on, how do access the adjustor?!? :confused: Please help a guy out before Ihave to dig a snowtunnel just to get under the rig :eek:

Jason

[ November 23, 2003, 08:33 AM: Message edited by: xj2fsj ]

[Rande]

There's a plastic or rubber plug on the back of the drum backing plate. It's in the center of the backing plate near the bottom. Pry the plug out and the adjuster is right in there. Use some PB Blaster where the drum fits around the end of the axle to breakup any rust holding it on there. You may need to "persuade" it off.

[xj2fsj]

Thanks Rande, it may have to wait till teusday, but I'll give it a go.

[rpmrevs440]

When i did the drums on my 77 cherokee one of the sides was rusted to the axle shaft flange.. i had to take a blow torch and heat up around the center (not red hot mind you) that broke all the rust (you'll hear several loud pops if this is the case) when i got the drum off my adjuster wheel was seized so tight i needed a vice and some vice grips to even get it apart..... used antiseize on that.... Good luck to you

[Wart Hawg]

Mine had two grooves worn into the drum and two matching "humps" in the brake shoes. The PO didn;t turn the drums on a brake job so it was a PITA to get the drum off. Had to use a massive prybar and a lot of explatives.

[Boggin the Boro]

I believe had to use Rande's method and a BFH when i did the brake on mine this past summer. The drums on mine were also grooved like the ones Wart Hawg described.

[ November 24, 2003, 09:04 AM: Message edited by: Boggin the Boro ]

[Don S]

..
xj2fsj
... This is what happened to to me. The adjustment slot holes are not punched all the way through some backing plates. Just get a chisel and knock them on through the backing plate and then back off the shoes. If that don't get it try a PB blaster soaking and a BFH. http://www.feebleminds-gifs.com/smiley-faces-28.gif

Have a good one, http://www.michiganjeepers.com/forums/images/graemlins/wave.gif and … CUL.. Don S..

[Al Johnson]

Here's a tip, assuming it is rust around the center of the drum and not brake shoes that's holding the drum on:

When you get after it with the BFH, hit the drum on the outside of it, in a direction toward the center of the axle. This will knock the rust loose better than hitting the backside of the drum, toward the outside of the vehicle. Also less likely to break stuff, like the drum. In Minnesota, we get a lot of rust-related problems. This method has worked well for me.

When reassembling, anti-seize is your friend.

Al

[jorg0370]

What are the preferred tools to use for backing off the star wheel adjuster?
I made an attempt tonight in the dark and rain with screwdrivers, awls, and allen wrenches.
I should mention I'm working on the front drums for a '76 J-10, and the driver's side star wheel appears to be off center to the access hole in the backing plate. By at least an inch.

[ November 29, 2005, 09:10 PM: Message edited by: jorg0370 ]

[will e]

If you are doing a brake job anyways and have new pins, you can grind down the heads of the old pins and the whole assembly will basically fall off.

[jorg0370]

Maybe the pins can be cut with hacksaw blade stuck between the backing plate and the drum? I know the drum can be pulled out about a quarter inch now.

I've got a dremel and an air cutoff tool, but I think those would cut into the backing plate, my aim isn't that good - besides, there's some kind of washer between the pins and the plate, that would probably get munched, too, and I don't have spares for that.

will, Thanks for the reply.