diesel swap question

[davey D]

ok so im planning on doing a diesel swap in my wagoneer and im looking at a 1985 m1009 6.2 military blazer w 10,000 miles. i read somewhere that the military trucks had a 24v electrical system, does that mean i should find another truck to use for my swap?? any help is appreciated.

[COLOFIREMAN]

ok so im planning on doing a diesel swap in my wagoneer and im looking at a 1985 m1009 6.2 military blazer w 10,000 miles. i read somewhere that the military trucks had a 24v electrical system, does that mean i should find another truck to use for my swap?? any help is appreciated.


On the CUCV the only thing that is 24V is the charging ans starting systems. IIRC all of the inside gauges are 12V. IMHO Unless your getting this blazer for close to free, and even then, I wouldn't install a 6.2 GM. Low power, low torque, pour running, problem glow plugs, and most require ether to start. I drove a lot of them in the Army and they were not good for much except around the base. Sorry to slam your conversion but I too thought the same until someone pointed this same thing out. Save your money and find a 6.5TD or a much pricier Cummins 4BT. Just some food for thought.

BTW if your still wanting to go forward try this site, a few members there have taken a CUCV and turned it directly into a wheeler....

http://coloradok5.com/forums/index.php

[joe]

It's worth looking at. If it runs good and decent priced then decide. Might want to price a 12v starter and alt. Dsl stuff can get pretty expensive. I bought a new not rebuilt alt for a 6.9 it was $165.
PS I've got a civilian C20/6.2 dsl w/150,000 on the clock and it starts and runs great and it's never seen a can of ether but yeah mil rigs do have a tendency to have had the dog poo run out of them. At least when I was a brother of the cloth we didn't baby anything.

[The PIG Smith]

It's worth looking at. If it runs good and decent priced then decide. Might want to price a 12v starter and alt. Dsl stuff can get pretty expensive. X2

I've got a civilian C20/6.2 dsl w/150,000 on the clock and it starts and runs great and it's never seen a can of ether but yeah mil rigs do have a tendency to have had the dog poo run out of them. At least when I was a brother of the cloth we didn't baby anything. My 1993 extended length cargo van's 6.2 has 200K+ (I think 210-215K) miles on the clock...runs great.
With 4:10 gears, it tows like a dream and still get good economy.

[710 Burner]

The 6.5 Hummers use a 24V fuel shut off on the injector pump. I would imagine the 6.2 CUCV does too. Its just a matter of unscrewing it from the pump and installing a 12V version.

[davey D]

well i havent gone to seeit yet but it looks like its in good shape and ive heard reports both ways, some say the 6.5TD is junk and the 6.2 is great and the other way around. i guess ill see when i go check it out.

[davey D]

the guy has 2 trucks hes selling, both with the 6.2. the M1009 that i mentioned in my first post, and an 86 with a crate motor in it w/16,000 hes asking $1,200 for either one. are either of these worth it?

[rocklaurence]

From my research, the 6.2 has the better heads and higher compression. I also believe that a 6.5 can be converted to mechanical injection elliminating the electronics. However, all sources recommend going with the newer 6.2 that has the serpentine belts as theyre better built with less of the failure prone items (glow plugs, crank, timing chain). Im leaning more toward a GM diesel converstion with a turbo as it will have all the accessories, transmission and Tcase in one package.:cool:

[davey D]

the computer thing is the only reason im not doing the 6.5TD ill hafta do some research on swapping the injection pump..

[joe]

Main thing to consider is if it's running really good now, with continued prop maint it should continue to do so but things still wear out anyway. Getting the running gear is a bonus if you have use for it an the little BS brackets etc is a plus over buying just a motor.
I do like the Cummins motors but haven't drank the coolaid. Just cause it ain't a Cummin's doesn't make it bad. All motors break/wear out parts. My neighbors 2000 ish Bodge truck/Cummins is on it's 3rd IP in less than 200,000 miles and they don't give IP's away for any dsl.

But again, previous military use isn't exactly a selling point unless you're a mil veh collector.
Sorry for the Cummins slam but I'm not convinced that there is just ONE vehicle, motor, bike or whatever that is the end-all of everything else and the only one to have.

[davey D]

i got the one he said has a crate motor and it runs really good its an 86 chevy blazer 6.2 diesel/th700r4/np208 so im gonna use the trans and t case too. is it possible to pull the motor and trans without disconnecting them?

[710 Burner]

With a good hoist, I'm sure it can be done.
FYI, converting a 6.5 from ECM is done by changing the injection pump to the mechanical version. The pump needs to be adjusted for a little more fuel delivery if using a turbo.

[budojeepr]

i got the one he said has a crate motor and it runs really good its an 86 chevy blazer 6.2 diesel/th700r4/np208 so im gonna use the trans and t case too. is it possible to pull the motor and trans without disconnecting them?
First, congratz on the find. As Napoleon Dynamite says, "Lucky."

Yeah, things to think about are:
- Front clip off? Otherwise, does the hoist go up far enough?
- Hoist legs extended far enough? (don't ask how I know to ask)
- You'll have to remove the transfer case anyway so you might think about removing the transmission from underneath if you can reach the bell housing bolts. If you do that, watch for torque converters falling from the sky (again, don't ask).

This is cool, make sure you take pictures and do a complete build thread! :thumbsup:

[davey D]

well i dont got a garage so im gonna build an overhead hoist across two trees so i can lift it as high as i need. im planning on taking the clip off anyway so that wont be a problem

[710 Burner]

OK Chicken Little, I won't ask. ;)

[Mikel]

Main thing to consider is if it's running really good now, with continued prop maint it should continue to do so but things still wear out anyway. Getting the running gear is a bonus if you have use for it an the little BS brackets etc is a plus over buying just a motor.
I do like the Cummins motors but haven't drank the coolaid. Just cause it ain't a Cummin's doesn't make it bad. All motors break/wear out parts. My neighbors 2000 ish Bodge truck/Cummins is on it's 3rd IP in less than 200,000 miles and they don't give IP's away for any dsl.

But again, previous military use isn't exactly a selling point unless you're a mil veh collector.
Sorry for the Cummins slam but I'm not convinced that there is just ONE vehicle, motor, bike or whatever that is the end-all of everything else and the only one to have.

I do agree that some people let their thinking be clouded sometimes. I think the older mechanical injection pumps (VE and P7100) tend to be MUCH more robust.

If I had a vehicle to repower, I would look at Isuzu engines. From what I hear, they are excellent engines and a lot quieter and smoother than a B-series.

[The PIG Smith]

If I had a vehicle to repower, I would look at Isuzu engines. From what I hear, they are excellent engines and a lot quieter and smoother than a B-series. X2
A person needs to go over the 4BTSwaps forum and read about these Isuzu engines.
There is an Isuzu 4BD1 3.9L that some claim to be a knockoff of the Cummins 3.9L 4BT (I dunno if that is true or not) that is suppose to run as well as if not better than the 4BT.
Also, there is a claim that they easier/cheaper to source from medium duty Isuzu (and some cabover GMC) box trucks

There is a sub forum dedicated to the Isuzu swaps.
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?16-Isuzu-4BD1T-2T

I recommend anyone to go read and study these engines if you are unsure as what Diesel you want in your rig.

[710 Burner]

The old Isuzu 4 cyl was a favorite among baby jeepers until they were gone.
Theres not alot of difference between the Detroit Diesel mechanical pump and the DD electronic pump. Although the electronic pump has a problem with the driver module overheating, as stated maintenance is key. Quite a few of these trucks went into commercial use and were ignored until they died, then the drivers of those trucks formed bad opinions based on poor maintenance.

[davey D]

im gonna have to come up with some way to fit the radiator. the stock one from the wag is roughly 27" wide but the one from the blazer is like 40". im just wondering what the people who have done this are using

[budojeepr]

Find a hot-rod shop locally or online and get a 4-row aluminum crossflow unit.

I have a 2-row and run the stock Wag 258 clutch fan & shroud. For extra peace of mind I got a pusher fan from a junkyard Mercedes. It cools well enough in Redding where we get over 100 degrees most of the time from June thru September.

Um, I don't have a trans cooler in front, nor a/c.

[davey D]

hmm i didnt even think of that.. ill look into it when i get a chance. im probably not gonna use the a/c either. i am planning on getting a turbo setup from a 6.5 to throw on it too. also it seems to me that the stock air filter and exhaust setups hold it back a lot. it has a dual 2 1/2" exhaust and when i pulled the top off the air filter it seemed a lot perkier.

[davey D]

ok so earlier today i had the truck running to move it, after i moved it i shut it off. like 10 minutes later i tried to start it again and it almost started but didnt so i kept cranking it then i just stopped turning and wouldnt even cycle the glow plugs. the wiring is all messed up in the truck tho so i have no idea. does that sound like the ignition switch is bad?

[budojeepr]

Similar thing happened to me. I drove the battery down to a nub trying to start it when it was warm (like after driving to the store). Turns out an old injection pump was the culprit. When cold it can make the right pressure; when warm it gets sloppy.

I was told to dump cold water on the IP (really) and see if it would start. If so, the IP needs a rebuild.

I got a new one off eBay and all my problems went away. Well, the hot-start problem, anyway.

[davey D]

hmm that could be... it just wont do anything when i turn the key so thats why i thought it might be the ignition switch.

[budojeepr]

hmm that could be... it just wont do anything when i turn the key so thats why i thought it might be the ignition switch.
Yeah, I considered that...my experience running the battery down to nuttin' was that when it gets below a certain voltage (not sure what) it won't even light up the light on the dash.

[davey D]

well i tested the battery yesterday with a voltmeter and i got V12.5. when it was cranking it wasnt like getting slow or anything, it was still spinning fast when it just stopped. I also tryed jumping it just in case i was wrong and that didnt do anything either. When i turned the key on before it would cycle the glow plugs, but now its like the key is off when its on.

Im probably just gonna pull the motor out and forget about it cause im pretty sure its the wiring in the truck and not the engine wiring.(As i mentioned before the wiring under the dash is seriously butchered.)