Carburetor rebuilt, now what?

[m1k3555]

1985 Grand Wagoneer

She was pretty heavy on the gas fume smell and I regularly change the fuel filter. I pulled off the carburetor and rebuilt it. Felt good about the work and added longer studs to compensate for the thicker base gaskets.

Several problems:

She fired up well though when it is time to accelerate she wants to cut power till I let up on the accelerator with a slight pop I am assuming it's gas going down the exhaust. This occurs around 20 mph.

I opened up the double barrel screws a half turn from where they are at. I tried closing them 1/2 turn and she would conk out on start up. So I went the other way.

I shortened the slack out of the accelerator chain from one ball to three. Receiving quick response on the gas pedal.

I've noticed the choke plate couldn't close all the way so I backed off the top screw ccw 6 turns.

I still smell gasoline and took off the air filter for a better look. Beneath the throttle spring and on the other side by the fast idle adjustment I am getting gas leaks.

I replaced the fuel needle in the kit and the float level seemed ok. I think on the lose of power stall I might be getting a little flooding.

Known Problems:

- gas leaks
- power cutting at about 20 mph

Need advice. Prefer to do the work myself if possible.

[Ristow]

She fired up well though when it is time to accelerate she wants to cut power till I let up on the accelerator with a slight pop I am assuming it's gas going down the exhaust. This occurs around 20 mph.
you're lean,either by tune or by vacuum leak.

I opened up the double barrel screws a half turn from where they are at. I tried closing them 1/2 turn and she would conk out on start up. So I went the other way.

are you meaning the idle mixture screws? start at 3 turns out each.

I shortened the slack out of the accelerator chain from one ball to three. Receiving quick response on the gas pedal.
that's for the cruise control,not throttle.

I've noticed the choke plate couldn't close all the way so I backed off the top screw ccw 6 turns.

the fast idle screw? the cap determines how hard the choke plate closes. it won't shut all the way in real hot weather.

I still smell gasoline and took off the air filter for a better look. Beneath the throttle spring and on the other side by the fast idle adjustment I am getting gas leaks.
out of the throttle shaft? will happen if you're flooding it,via pumping while cranking,or out of adjustment choke which you have.

I replaced the fuel needle in the kit and the float level seemed ok. I think on the lose of power stall I might be getting a little flooding.
maybe. check float height. although loss of power that returns as the throttle is let off indicates a lean condition.


you do need to adjust the carb and all it functions correctly,or you'll be chasing issues endlessly.

[m1k3555]

you're lean,either by tune or by vacuum leak.

If I put all the other adjustments back, and I'm lean by tune or vacuum. I understand the vacuum leak.

Lean by tune, does that require a tune up with the light gun mechanic?

I'm learning fast and trying, thanks for your advice.

Regarding the idle mixture screws. The passenger side was at 11mm and the driver side at 8mm which is how it must have been when I a bought it. I did even them out on reinstalling. Should I reset these all the way in and back them out 3 turns or leave them?

[m1k3555]

I got her to run richer with the what I believe is the fast idle knob on the side. The truck got about up to 40 mph and the same problem occurred.

I am getting a good leak behind the carburetor on a big hose and it looks like mostly water so I will be looking up the radiator connection.

Apparently a few hoses weren't replaced when I had all the hoses replaced though the one on the back looks good. I think I have a vacuum leak as one keeps sucking down and is severely cracked. Also the big fuel hose on the front of the carburetor is looking bad.

I will replace those two and look up the water leak and see where I'm at.