CJ headlights work?

[68_Gladiator]

i thought i read many moons ago that CJ headlights are the same as the ones used in gladiators? so in theory if i want to upgrade to H4 headlights just get a pair of lamps made for a CJ?

[Warmachine]

I picked up a set at a swap meet, seller said they were in his (wrecked) cj5. They bolted right in on the '77 Cherokee, and likewise into the '99 TJ.

Without trying that specific year, I'd say you have a better than par chance of it working.

[68_Gladiator]

my old stock headlights leave much to be desired from them. its like having candles in the lens. and with the entire wiring/electrical system being replaced, i don't want to leave the headlights out. Ebay has some good deals for CJ H4 conversions, Even the name brand ones from inline dealers are only 85$ with xenon bulbs 75$ with regular H4. Now its just a matter of fitment.

[Warmachine]

Off the shelf (local parts store) Silverstars gave me about the same increase in visibility IMO. Cheaper too.

[Warmachine]

Off the shelf (local parts store) Silverstars gave me about the same increase in visibility IMO. Cheaper too.

[Green Giant]

Pricing has probably changed in the last 4 years, but it is a very easy and useful upgrade. I would highly recommend upgrading the 20-30 year old stock wire harness/connectors.

Low-buck H4 Headlight Conversion Now W/Pics (http://www.cfsjc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30)

Here is the eBay link:http://stores.ebay.com/Autopal-Lights

They have the square lights for 79+ also.

[68_Gladiator]

when it burns out do you have to change the whole lens assembly or do they have removable bulbs? I did the H4 conversion on my motorcycle and carried an extra bulb with me, made things a lot easier. for trail situations if i had removable bulbs i could change them without removing the headlight assembly. and bulbs are smaller easier to store in the truck than a new headlight. If the silverstars have removable bulbs ill check them out

[68_Gladiator]

Pricing has probably changed in the last 4 years, but it is a very easy and useful upgrade. I would highly recommend upgrading the 20-30 year old stock wire harness/connectors.

Low-buck H4 Headlight Conversion Now W/Pics (http://www.cfsjc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30)


says i need to be logged in to view it, and as for wiring the whole truck is getting and updated GM style harness from either painless or a very good kit i heard about from hotrod wires

[Gambler68]

Since you're upgrading the wiring, you'll see an improvement regardless. That's why FSJs lights suck in the first place. A proper relayed light circuit and some good (not necessarily expensive) halogens will be 100x better than the stock setup.

[68_Gladiator]

Im leaning towards ebay. 20 bucks for cj replacement lights with bulbs plus shipping. and almost every place around here that sells motor oil now carries replacement sylvania H4 bulbs. even the gas stations.

[Green Giant]

says i need to be logged in to view it, and as for wiring the whole truck is getting and updated GM style harness from either painless or a very good kit i heard about from hotrod wires


OK Here is the thread from Feb 2006 with links to photos:


submitted this to Zack Heisey for the upcoming FSJ magazine, but given the controversy surrounding the new ownership and the change of focus I will share this here, as it may never see print and I worked too hard on it to let it die.
This ranks right up with the TFI conversion in my book. It is something I should have done along time ago.
I'll add pics soon.

Low–Buck H-4 Headlight Conversion or WOW, I should have done this a long time ago.

Parts List:
Materials (http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/GreenGiant/h4MaterialsS.jpg)
1 Pair Autopal HL102P43T Head Lamp (w/H-4 bulbs) $38.94 Autopal Lights (Ebay Store)
2 ea. Optronics A-715 30Amp Horn & Auxiliary Light Relay $3.97 Advance auto Parts
2ea. Motormite 85713 Primary Wire Green 12gauge 12ft. $ 1.98 Advance Auto Parts
2ea. Littelfuse FHAC2BP Heavy Duty Fuseholder w/Cover $4.99 Advance Auto Parts
2ea. 20amp ATO fuses
3ea #10 Pan Head Sheetmetal Screws
Assorted crimp type terminals
Heat shrink tubing

Total spent: $ 60.82

Time required: 2.5 hours

Tired of not being able to see the road when driving at night, or in rainy weather? Tired seeing shadows in front of you because the vehicle behind you has brighter lights than yours? Here is a low-cost way to upgrade your old sealed beam headlights. Pardon the pun, but the difference is like night & day.

Where do I find the conversion kit?

I started by searching for H-4 conversion lights that would fit the headlight buckets in my 1978 Cherokee Chief. I found plenty of expensive conversion kits, but being frugal (cheap, tight, whatever) I searched until I found a set I could afford on my almost non-existent FSJ budget.
I found what I was looking for on Ebay at a store called Autopal Lights. He has just about any type of vehicle light you would need at reasonable prices. I got the round 7” lights, but he has the rectangular ones for you late model aficionados as well. The Autopal light kit consists of a glass lens and housing with a rubber dust cover and an H-4 bulb. I ordered the 55/60W bulbs in order to be street legal, but different wattage combinations are available up to 120W. I would strongly recommend re-wiring with a heavier gauge wire for the higher wattages. Everything else I found either on the shelf at Advance Auto Parts or I had in my garage supplies.

Steps to see the light.

First disconnect the negative cable from your battery. Then remove the 3 screws securing the trim ring or door as they are referred to in the Technical Service Manual. (I also removed the entire grille, although the conversion can be done with the grille in place.) Next loosen the three screws that hold the retaining ring (not the aiming screws), and rotate and remove the retainer and unplug the old sealed beam. Sealed Beam (http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/GreenGiant/h4sealedbeamS.jpg)Remove the four screws that hold the bucket in place and set the bucket aside. Repeat for the other side.

At this point it is recommended that you inspect the entire headlight circuit and replace wiring and connectors as needed. (Mine were in excellent shape for their age because the original owner kept the Cherokee in a carport all of its life.)

The conversion units come unassembled, so you must remove the plastic plug and install the bulb in the housing by loosening the two wire clips, discard the plug. Do not touch the glass part of the bulb with your bare fingers as the oil in your fingerprints may cause premature failure of the bulb. Grasp the bulb by its metal base, line up the tabs with the slots in the housing and secure with the clips. Push the wire harness through the back of the bucket and install the dust cover over the plug. This is tricky because the plug is t-shaped and the hole in the cover is round. You will have to stretch the rubber around the plug. Plug the bulb into the harness push the dust cover up snug to the housing and install into the bucket while lining up the tabs on the housing with the slots on the bucket. Make sure the bulb is upright in the bucket as they are “aimed” for a right hand drive vehicle. Place retaining ring onto the housing, line up the slots with the screws on the bucket and rotate into place. Tighten the retaining ring screws. Install the bucket into place. Repeat for the other side. Replace grille, trim rings, etc.New Lights (http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/GreenGiant/h4neweyesS.jpg)

Now on to the fun part: wiring.

Locate the wire loom running along the right fender that contains the headlight wiring. Loosen the loom retainers using a flat blade screwdriver and fish the wires out of the loom. Consult the proper wiring schematic of your vehicle for the color code of the two headlight wires. (Mine were gray and gray with a tracer.) Harness (http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/GreenGiant/h4harnessS.jpg)Or you could trace the wires back from the right headlight. Cut the two wires close to where they pass under the windshield washer reservoir and pull the wires back towards the firewall until you have about a foot of each wire showing. Splice (http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/GreenGiant/h4spliceS.jpg)
Mount your relays in a convenient spot. (I mounted mine on top of the fender between the reservoir and the ignition module to ensure that they were high and dry.) Drill 2 holes the proper size and spacing to mount the relays and an additional hole for a ground.

Splice enough 10 or 12ga wire to the wires coming from the headlights, marking the wire connected to the tracer wire with a piece of tape.Marked Wire (http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/GreenGiant/h4markedwireS.jpg)Crimp-on female blade connectors to the wires you just added and to the wires coming from the firewall connector. Make two short ground wires with female spade connectors on one end and a ring terminal on the other. Screw them to the fender for a ground. Mount the relays to the holes you drilled and connect all the wires to the proper terminals. The relays will come with a schematic. Relays (http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/GreenGiant/h4completedS.jpg)

Locate the “hot” side of your starter solenoid, or some other connection point that is “hot” constantly, such as the positive battery terminal. Run one or two 10ga wires from this location, around the firewall to the relays, leaving enough on each end for your connections. (I used two wires, but you could run one and split it at the relays.) Install female connectors and attach to the relays. Splice fuse holder(s) on the other end of the wire(s) coming from the relays. Use crimp on ring terminals on the other end of the fuse holders and attach to the power source you previously selected. Install 20amp fuses into the holders and reconnect your negative cable. Fuse holders (http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/GreenGiant/h4solenoidS.jpg)Test.

Can You See The Light? (http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Users/GreenGiant/h4icanseeS.jpg)

[68_Gladiator]

very informant. i have to say out of all this projects tasks (cutting, welding drive train rebuild and install and painting) wiring is going to be my slowest, hardest and probably most frustrating task.