Rear axle oil seals: lip direction and self-replacement?

[BobBarry]

I replaced the oil-seals on my '88 GW's rear axle-shafts last-year, but since then have been dismayed that gear-lube still makes its way past the seal, down the backing plate, and onto the drum and shoes (making quite a stink).

I thought the problem might be a worn axle-shaft in the region of that seal, but upon closer inspection, I noticed that the lip of the seal is pointing *outward*, away from the source of the gear-lube.

This, I imagine, is the opposite of the way this seal should face? Is its primary role to keep gear-lube in, or water and contaminants out? I'm guessing the former, and that the rocket-scientists who pressed on the seal and bearings (a Jeep dealer) put it on backwards.

This is a later-style axle, BTW, that only uses the one seal outboard of the roller-bearings, so they are lubed by gear-lube as well.

Now for the solution. Competent machine-shops are as hard to come by in Rhode Island as honest politicians, and the few places that would deign to press on bearings gladly charge two arms and a leg. No friendly machine-shops attached to parts-stores who will press your bearings for $5/each, or free if you buy them there.

So I'm thinking a 12-ton or 20-ton press from Harbor Freight may be in my future... http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/smile.gif

Anyway, a few questions for the pros on this matter:

* Would the bearing race be distorted if I pressed it off to turn the seal over? I'm assuming I'm going to replace the retaining-ring, but would like to not buy a bearing if it isn't necessary.

* Assuming I go and do it myself, any special matters to pay attention to when pressing the bearings on and off the shaft? I'm already keen on not torching off the retaining ring, but drilling and cracking it with a cold-chisel (already did that to get the old one off last time).

* Would a 12-ton press handle all the things I'd need it for on this truck? Or would the extra $$$ for the 20-ton be an absolute necessity? I'm considering the press for the future jobs, such as the axle in the back of my Cherokee, as well as things like piston-pins, rod-bolts, suspension bushings, etc., all the things I currently farm-out and end-up getting nickle'd and dime'd to death (actually $25'd-$50'd to death).

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Bob Barry<UL TYPE=SQUARE>* '78 Cherokee 4-door
* '88 Grand Wagoneer[/list]http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/

[jeepbob]

Bob if your funds allow it, go with the 20t as with presses bigger is better, also get a set of what HF calls bearing seperators as these will make life much easier. If you use the bearing seperators you should be able to reuse the bearings, if they are in good shape and yes the lip goes toward the oil.

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65 wag. 360/edelbrock rb4/t400/20 t-case/4:10 d27/d44 tracloc/onboard air/onboard 110v power(no inverter)/1999 Lincoln t.c.leather buckets/taurus ctr console/winch/33x12.50/tunes/water proof door pads
soon to have new motor/d44frt/d60r(4:10)welded diff/custom bumpers
see ya in da mud

[Texwears]

The axle housing surface may need to be smoothed with a bit of emory cloth where the axle shaft oil seal seats.

I replaced my rear axle bearings/races and inner/outer oil seals last october on my 84 GW. I installed the seals with the metal surface facing out. I had many people tell me not to install new inner oil seals because the bearings should be bathed w/diff fluid. Many others said install the inner seals, the bearings should be packed with grease. I re-installed new inner seals. My bearings/races are packed with slick 50 brand bearing grease.

See Chiltons manual for Jeep wagoneer/ commando cherokee/ truck 1957-86, part no. 6739. On page 351 it has a note that says some wagoneers had inner seals and some did not. But chiltons doesn't explain which axles had inners and which ones didn't.

As for the retainer ring, it will have to be replaced. I had mine removed with a 5 pound hammer. It works but wear goggles!

I had access to a six ton press where I work. It worked fine for pressing the bearings and retainer on. Remember to slide the retainer plate and the oil seal on the axle first!

Also, check your brake shoes. The differential fluid will soak and damage them.