Pickle Wagon build thread

[Etcetera]

I've been taking care of small issues and buying parts over the last couple months, and I'm getting close enough to having enough parts to start a build thread. I decided to name my Waggy the Pickle Wagon because it's green, and my last name is Claussen. It's a 75 Wagoneer Custom

Quite a few of the first pics and bits of info have already been posted in other threads by me. I figured I'd get it all in one place.

Here's how I bought it. 360/th400/QT/D44's/3.54's

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep4.jpg

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep6.jpg

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep12.jpg

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep14.jpg

As you can see, it's pretty straight and solid. No rust. $500 drive it home no smog Wagoneer.

Here are the plans.

14bolt (or 60) rear, full width 44 front, 35's on H2 rims.
Dana 20, or possibly np205. I have the 20, I think it will hang with the type of wheeling I do.
SOA front, inboard rear, trim to clear tires.
Custom home made bumpers front and rear
completely under dash heater/ac system.
High back bucket seats.
Home made Tad style rack.
Rebuild the TH400
refresh a 360
TBI
High amp alternator (done!)
HEI (done!)
etc

[Etcetera]

I pulled all the heater/ac stuff. Made a patch panel for the firewall, screwed in for now. Maybe I'll get ambitious when the motor is out and weld everything up.
Also in this picture is the HEI with poorly trimmed wires. I've moved just about everything from the inner fenders.

I'm partially done with a firewall mount battery tray. It mounts to the left of the motor in the pic. Has a spot for the solenoid and a bump switch. Hope to have it done with pics tomorrow.

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep26.jpg

[Etcetera]

I did the CS144 alternator swap. It's a little different for the early 360's. The factory 1 piece mount won't clear the alternator, and the spacer needs to be cut down.

Here's the alternator with my blingin pulley.

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep19.jpg

The trimmed spacer, knocked out about .7" from the length, didn't use the thick washer between block and spacer, and had to drill and tap it to get enough thread engagement.

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep23.jpg

Here's how I cut the bracket. It was brought to my attention it's not as strong as factory. That's true, but based on my experience with other motors I think it's plenty strong the way I did it. If I experience a failure, I'll post it up.

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep24.jpg

And the finished product.

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep25.jpg

Edit: I used the light below the Emergency drive light on the dash for the alternator light. Pretty easy to wire it up.

[Etcetera]

I picked up a pair of high back buckets from a late 60's Cougar. They are very nice black vinyl and a very good fit. I bartered a couple hours computer work for them. They won't be installed until almost everything else is done. Don't want to be pokin any holes in them.

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep27.jpg


D20 with novak adapter and I think proper TH400 output shaft. (thank babywag)

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep28.jpg


Dana 60 and 44. I'm probably going to end up using the 14 bolt instead of the 60 rear. Don't have a pic of the 14. This 60 is a several inches narrower than the 44. With the H2 rims I think the wider axle will work better.

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep29.jpg


And finally, the H2 rims. Quite a steal, $100 for the set of 5.

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep30.jpg

[Etcetera]

Picked up an AMC 360 off craigslist tonight. It's from a boat, pulled 10 years ago. I gave $100 for it.

Offy dual port 360 manifold and a like new flywheel that has never seen a clutch disk. The motor spins, and had plenty of life and good oil pressure according to the seller. I'm pulling it apart to check it out. Hopefully I can do rings and gaskets and run it. I need to figure out the year. Seller thought early to early mid 70's. I'm not even 100% sure it's a 360, the weird boat motor mount setup covers the numbers in the block. Worst case the motor is junk but I get a manifold and possible good timing cover.

Edit: According to the following link, it's either a 360 or 401 from 70-80. I won't know until tomorrow when I can get it on a stand and pull the mounting plates off.
http://www.planethoustonamx.com/main/amc_engine_casting_numbers.htm

Here are the pics from the Craigslist ad

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep31.jpg

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep32.jpg

[jMedia]

Wow what a steal! I'm jealous of the price and the year. And the color! I think I am gonna go for that color with my paint job. Looks good so far. Gonna run into any problems with the engine being out of a boat?

:thumbsup:

[Etcetera]

Wow what a steal! I'm jealous of the price and the year. And the color! I think I am gonna go for that color with my paint job. Looks good so far. Gonna run into any problems with the engine being out of a boat?

:thumbsup:

Not sure if there will be any problems specifically because it's a boat engine. The cam might not be ideal. According to the seller it had a nice idle with mild lope. The water pump setup can be removed. The jet drive provided cooling water. It was about 50-50 freshwater/saltwater. I suppose there could be some corrosion problems. I plan of flushing the water jacket very thoroughly.


Also was able to just barely see the "360" cast into the side of the block. Tomorrow I'll know if I'll be able to use it with just a hone job and rings.

[Etcetera]

I dug into the motor a bit. The tops of the heads look like new. The valley looks clean. Pulled the flywheel off, and I think I have my first problem. There is a pilot bearing in there, which looks different than what I'm used to, but should be easy to remove. The register that the torque converter snout fits into is bigger than the snout on the spare AMC TH400 converter I have here.

I know there are at least 2 different configurations for the end of the crank, and it looks like this is the other configuration, or course. Researching. If everything is looks good inside then maybe I'd consider getting the proper crank for the TH400.

[Etcetera]

OK, so I just read about a ring that needs to be removed to put a 727 on a TH400 motor. Presumably that ring could be reinstalled to allow a TH400. I hope that is the case, because this motor might be a runner.

Pics coming soon.

[babywag]

Th400 equipped rigs need a spacer in the crank for the converter.
Every Jeep has 'em...they can be challenging to find sometimes.

Does your TH400 have an adapter between the engine/tranny bellhousing?
If yes there is a bolt on spacer that takes car of it.
If no (AMC bellhousing) th400 you need the small spacer that slides into the crank.

[suzq044]

...
And finally, the H2 rims. Quite a steal, $100 for the set of 5.

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep30.jpg

.. wait, you have 8 lug waggy, or did I miss something?

[Etcetera]

Th400 equipped rigs need a spacer in the crank for the converter.
Every Jeep has 'em...they can be challenging to find sometimes.

Does your TH400 have an adapter between the engine/tranny bellhousing?
If yes there is a bolt on spacer that takes car of it.
If no (AMC bellhousing) th400 you need the small spacer that slides into the crank.

Thanks, that's good to know. I have an AMC pattern 400. So I guess I have to dig up one of those spacers. Should be fun.

[Etcetera]

.. wait, you have 8 lug waggy, or did I miss something?

It's not 8 lug yet, but it will be when the new axles are installed.

[Knuck]

He is swapping in a D44hd and either a 14bolt or D60.

[Etcetera]

The heads are 74 360 or 401. Casting #3220502. That jives more or less with what the seller remembered about the boat.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/david.crooks/amc.PDF

The bridges are different than the ones in my 75. My 75 has a bridge with the pivots separate. These are all one piece. I was hoping for stud mount rocker heads, but these look great. Hopefully the other side looks as nice.

[Dumpy]

That's gonna be one sweet ride!

[The Colonel]

I do like the color. What was the last year they used that green?

[Etcetera]

I do like the color. What was the last year they used that green?

I'm not sure. Mine has been repainted several times. It was originally an off white color.

[shimniok]

Great project, looking forward to more pics and progress! Good luck! (you seem to have quite a bit of that already...)

[Etcetera]

OK, so I made a little more progress under the hood. Finished the battery tray, just need to drill for bolts. It's mounted temporarily with bigger self tapping screws.

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep33.jpg


I moved the horns behind the grill. You can just barely see them. I used the center hole in the core support, I think it's supposed to be a drain. They fit like they are supposed to be there.

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep35.jpg


Took a general pic under the hood. Also included a pic of under the hood when I got it.
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep34.jpg
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep12.jpg

On the engine front, I pulled the heads, I'm going to hone and do rings. It's actually pretty good and measures out ok, but some crud got down in there, and there was a weird film on the cylinder walls. When I tear it down I'm going to check the cam, and probably just run it. I'll do cam bearings unless they are perfect. Hopefully the rods and mains will look ok, they will get fresh bearings. Heads will get torn down and cleaned. They are pretty fresh, but some rust in a couple of the intake ports and all the exhaust ports. Might as well do it right.

I'm going to run a quadrajet. I think it's probably the only carb that would work decent on the offy dual port. I kind of like Q-Jet's anyways, so I'm running one.

One last thing, I procured a passenger side knuckle drilled and tapped with the high steer arm. It's an old arm, needs to be machined so the TRE's live. For starters I'm running high drag link, low stock tie rod. Later on I'll move up to a nice high steer tie rod, but I'm trying to stay on budget for now.

[Etcetera]

A couple updates, no pictures.

Going with the 14 bolt. It's much closer to the width of my 44 front, front is 69 and change, 14 bolt is 67. Going to put the 60 rear up in the classified section. It's about 64 inches wide, 4.10's with factory limited slip. Interestingly, the 14 bolt would probably bolt in. Sping pads were pretty close after a rough measurement. I was going to go spring under frame, but maybe I'll keep them outboard. Still have to fabricate all new spring mounts.

Picked up a pair of 56" chevy springs for the rear. Freebies.

Picked up a pretty sweet set of Stewart Warner gauges at the Pomona Swap meet a couple weeks ago. $40. They are the World series gauges, out of production I think. Tach, speedo, oil, water, amps and fuel. I need to hunt down a matching voltage gauge. They pop up on ebay from time to time for next to nothing. Just need to be patient.

Not much else new to report for now. Just cleaning parts and prepping for the big swap. I also picked up a 61 ford f350 flatbed for free. Got it running, so I'll be able to drive it when I'm working on the Jeep. That should simplify things. It will make a great parts runner.

[Etcetera]

Finally got a chance to actually work on the Jeep again. Welded all 52 holes in the roof. Wire brushed and primed the inside of the roof, then sandwiched a piece of 3/4 Styrofoam insulation between the cross supports and roof. Man than made a huge difference in temperature and brought the noise level way down.

Sold the dana 60 rear. Unless I find a smokin deal on a 60 front I'll be running 14 bolt rear and 44 front.

Also, powdercoated my first piece today. Finally.

[Snowbird_Hunter]

Interesting idea on the roof insulation. I had never thought of that for some reason.

I would be interested to know more on how you got it up in there and maybe some more pics ... :thumbsup:

It is looking good, looking forward to seeing more.

[cmelo]

http://ericclaussen.com/jeep28.jpg


Did you modify the dana 20 yourself for twinsticks or did you buy it that way. It looks like it's just a slightly changed stock setup with twin sticks. Do you have any close up pics of the what was done? I plan on doing the same thing to mine.

[Etcetera]

I took the cross braces out to get the foam in. I just slighly bent the lip at the front and rear of the vehicle to slip it under, then bolted the cross braces back in. The front one you can do by hand and leave the tar felt stuff on the back side. The other 2 I had to remove the tar felt stuff and use a lever to push it up high enough to get the bolts in. I shoved the foam under the front lip by the windshield, then I put the middle brace, then the other 2 braces. I then cut the rear of the sheet about an inch long, and bowed the foam up and slipped it under the rear lip. It's a tight fit, but worth it I think. I'm pretty sure the stock headliner would go back in. Mine is trashed so I'll have to figure something else out.

I bought the dana 20 that way. It is a homebuilt setup. I'll see if I can get a picture.

[jeepjerry]

Nice project!! It will be nice when its done.

Sounds like you stole that boat motor too.

[Christiansok]

The roof insulation is pretty cool. I would look into doing that myself because all the tar patches on my roof inside have fallen off and it sure rattles a lot.

[Etcetera]

The roof insulation is pretty cool. I would look into doing that myself because all the tar patches on my roof inside have fallen off and it sure rattles a lot.

Mine was horrible. The headliner came down, and the big fiber pad had fallen apart. The whole roof would slap against those bars on smallish bumps. Pretty darn loud.

[Christiansok]

Mine was horrible. The headliner came down, and the big fiber pad had fallen apart. The whole roof would slap against those bars on smallish bumps. Pretty darn loud.

I've taken off my roof rack and strips on top too so there really isn't much for structure anymore. I imagine without adding insulation or something it's going to be pretty loud driving in the rain.

[Etcetera]

Today my goal is to fix the 2 inch section of bad drip rail and sand and paint the outside of the roof.

[babywag]

Today my goal is to fix the 2 inch section of bad drip rail and sand and paint the outside of the roof.

Repainting my roof has been on my to-do list for 5 years now LOL!

Your project is looking good!

[Etcetera]

Repainting my roof has been on my to-do list for 5 years now LOL!

Your project is looking good!

LOL, I know how that goes.

Paint will have to wait till another day, the rail is taking longer to fix than I hoped. Had to cut more out to get the rust.

I'm also having second thoughts about the green paint. I'm kind of thinking of white for the roof and almond for the body now. We'll see.

[babywag]

White was what I settled on for a roof color to try and combat the heat issue...
I have seen several 60's era wags with a white roof, and it looks good IMHO.

Maybe someday I'll get around to doing it?

[Etcetera]

Well, the drip rail is fixed I guess. I'm not 100% happy with it, but I don't want to make a 3rd attempt either, so it's staying. This is primarily a camping/trail rig, no need to get crazy with the body work. Ended up fabbing a 5 inch section to replace the rusted section. I'm so spoiled living in inland So. Cal. I really hate fixing rust.

[Etcetera]

Here's a pic. Looks ok I guess. A little finessing with a DA and it will be better.

[rocklaurence]

To secure the foam did you use spray adhesive or tape to hold it?

[Etcetera]

To secure the foam did you use spray adhesive or tape to hold it?

No, the foam board is quite stiff. It's held up by the 3 bolt in braces and the front and rear are slipped under the metal lip that runs all the way around.

In the front I might attach a new support from the forward most cross support to the front lip, right above the mirror. That section is the largest unsupported area. Even there I think it's probably OK without glue.

[jsc7002]

Good looking project for sure! and some awesome deals! I vote for the 14 bolt over a D60, I know they are big and heavy and hang down but they are just bullet proof axles!

[Etcetera]

Good looking project for sure! and some awesome deals! I vote for the 14 bolt over a D60, I know they are big and heavy and hang down but they are just bullet proof axles!

Yeah, I went with the 14 bolt. Beef. I shaved some already, just with a sawzall. I haven't decided if I'll go nuts and take it apart and really shave it. Just taking that lip off should help alot. I found one writeup on pirate with an extreme shave and it had more clearance than a stock Dana 44. Maybe if/when I regear.

[jsc7002]

Yeah, I went with the 14 bolt. Beef. I shaved some already, just with a sawzall. I haven't decided if I'll go nuts and take it apart and really shave it. Just taking that lip off should help alot. I found one writeup on pirate with an extreme shave and it had more clearance than a stock Dana 44. Maybe if/when I regear.

yeah I think I have seen that thread, I just shaved mine so that the lip was gone and it was all smooth on the bottom.

[Etcetera]

Decided to finish welding all the holes in the body BEFORE painting the roof, or anything else. I'm thinking that's smart.

I still have 12 holes on the drivers side to weld. 11 smallish ones and 1 that I will need to make a patch panel for. I think there was a CB antenna there or something.

[Etcetera]

All the holes are filled on the outside of the body. Other than some sanding and maybe a little touch up it's ready for paint. I'm moving on to the inside first though.

There are a ton of holes to weld, lucky they are all small and very quick and easy. I'm welding some seams, all the holes, and a couple fatigue cracks. Going to grind everything smooth, sand, then prime the floor. Then spray in bedliner.

Any ideas for headliner? I'm thinking of just using cheap automotive carpet that my neighbor has a roll of at his carpet store. Some work needs to be done if that's the case. Otherwise I'll have to hunt down a nice headliner board that is local.

I don't have pictures, but I cut the first door panel from a sheet of thin plywood. It has a nice void free finish on both sides, about 1/4" thick or a touch less. Going to stain, varnish and screw them in. I think I have the chrome separator strips and will use those and carpet the bottom 6-8 inches of each panel. I'm thinking of using rubber press on edge trim on the edges, not sure yet.

[Etcetera]

Unfortunately this build is on indefinite hold. Destroyed my welder today, forgot to remove the Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogleying ground clamp from the bumper before pulling out of the driveway. Welder rear ended me and destroyed my bumper as well when I realized what happened.

Just pricing it out on the internet, I could buy the same welder used for what it would cost in parts.

Since I'm not working, it's going to be a while, a long while before I can weld again.

[Josh D]

Bummer dude, that sucks!!

[Etcetera]

Yeah, I was pretty mad at myself. It's not quite as bad as I thought, still going to cost a couple hundred to fix it. The coupler that the torch mounts too is broken, the plug on my extension cord is broken, the ground clamp is broken, and a part of the wire feed is bent.

I got the wire feed working, but I might order the replacement part for it anyways. I bought a new plug for the extension cord, and a new ground clamp. Just need to call around to find the best deal on the coupler and beat a couple of the sheetmetal pieces back into shape. I'll have to wait a couple weeks to order the coupler.

[Rompn]

Subscribing for a local build...:thumbsup:

[Etcetera]

Where in OC? I've seen a few fixed up modded ones right around here, need to make up some cards with the website on it and put them on the windshields.

More updates soon.

[Rompn]

Tustin/Irvine area. Jeep hasn't been on the road for awhile though. It's undergoing a 14 bolt/Dana 60 swap as well. Just finishing up the Chevy 350 and Dana 20 swap right now before starting on the suspension.

[Etcetera]

Bought a couple mirrors to replace the stockers. Wow, I can actually see now. I guess they don't look as good as stock, but for me it's a worthwhile trade. The fold back for tight parking or offroading. The are Roberk model 765. Made in USA even. You can get them cheap on ebay, also in chrome.

[Etcetera]

Been making some progress lately.

I've managed to squeeze more life from the engine, thought it was on it's last leg. I started driving it more and the valve ticking was getting worse and pretty annoying. Finally decided to roll the dice and pull the valve covers off and see what was happening. Several of the aluminum valve bridges were worn .100 or more at the pivot. I pulled the complete set of bridges, rockers, and low flow pushrods from the boat motor. Cleaned everything, replaced them all and the darn thing runs like a sewing machine. Will need to pull it apart again to change valve seals, found parts of several umbrella seals covering all of the oil drain back holes. Ordered the oil pump mid plate kit and bypass plug. I cleaned up the oil filter adapter from the boat motor. Pulled the pressure regulator apart. Ready to put back together when the Bulltear parts get here.

Installed aluminum radiator from Ebay. I didn't have a cooling problem before, but I had some pretty annoying leaks. 2 different radiators, one needed a new transcooler installed and it leaked around the boss, the other needed to be recored. The new aluminum one bolted right in and cools at least as good as the old radiators. I have never been able to get this thing to run hot, even on 110 degree days.

Found a like new windshield washer reservoir and installed it.

Not much progress towards the axle swap or lift. Got a set of used BFG AT's for my H2 rims. Have a local buyer for my stock axles, he's putting them in an old willy's truck.

[Etcetera]

Over the last week or so I got my bargain swap meet gauges installed. Still using the aftermarket fuel gauge the waggy came with until I swap tanks, new tank will have a sender that matches the Stewart warner gauge. Still trying to hunt down a matching temp gauge. Sooner or later it will turn up on ebay. Found the matching voltage gauge in a bus at the junk yard of all places.

It's temporary. I cut out a piece of aluminum, but chickened out when it came to drilling the holes. Decided to make a wood version first. Glad I did because I want to make a few adjustments

The light at the center of the 4 small gauges is an ALT light. Sorry for the fuzzy pic.

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13982&stc=1&d=1294295500

Also installed a bulltear mid plate, filter bypass plug, and a new pressure regulator spring. Spent quite a bit of time making the filter adapter as perfect as could be. Fully warmed up with 15w40 and WIX filter it idles at about 20 psi and down the road it's around 50-55psi. 65psi cold idle. I think the combination of mods netted me about 15 psi hot idle, and roughly the same hot cruise.

Dialed in the mechanical and vacuum advance on the HEI. Kept off the line power and no pinging under heavy load. Proabably used half a tank of gas testing it. Replaced sparkplugs and discovered a broken one, that explains the mis-fire. I had it out before and it looked fine, this time I pulled it out and it broke about half way between the tip and base. Thing runs pretty good now. Still has one noisy lifter when hot, but it's not terrible.

[Etcetera]

Been a while since I logged in, working crazy hours lately. Swapped the offenhauser manifold onto the 360 with a rebuilt quadrajet off craigslist. Got lucky and the tune on the quadrajet is pretty close, huge improvement over the motorcraft carb.

Drove it around like that for a little while. Installed Ebay aluminum radiator, factory one was leaking at the seam. Removed factory fan, installed Taurus fan. Just hooked up to a toggle switch for now, only have to use the fan if get stuck in traffic.

Pretty much haven't driven in for 6 weeks at least. Bought a super clean 91 YJ for a daily driver, and now I have a company work van as well. Figured it was a good time to start more serious work on it.

Axles are out as of tonight. The are going into a friends 50's Willy's truck. Got the passenger side knuckle swapped on my 3/4 ton chevy Dana 44. Need to order a steering arm for it. I have one, but it's not drilled for a tie rod end. Been keeping an eye out for some Chevy leaf springs. They used to turn up free or super cheap all the time, guess not as many people have money to put lifts on their new trucks now days.

Tomorrow night I'll drag the new axles under it just to get an idea what I'm looking at. Still need to install disk brake kit on the 14 bolt. Might as well shave it while it's out.

Also dropped the factory gas tank, looks like my 80's bronco tank will fit really well. Need to order a sending unit for my gauge and get that taken care of.

Going to build my own driveshafts for now, almost for sure the 360 will go bye bye, no sense in paying for professionally made shafts when they will almost certainly be changed in the next year or 2. Been shopping around for an engine/trans/t-case combo. Was thinking diesel, but just haven't been finding a good combo. Will probably go with a mid-2000's 4.8/5.3 or 6.0 from a wrecked chevy truck. Either buy a whole vehicle at auction or maybe just buy the combo from someone. Not very original I know, but at least it's not a 350. Been playing around with those LS based motors at a friends place and it's pretty hard to beat, espescially for the money.

No pictures tonight. Will post them soon.

[jaber]

Sounds like your going all out on it.
Cant wait to see the pics.
Who did you get the 14b disc brackets from?

[Etcetera]

Disk brake brackets from Ruff Stuff Specialties. 99% sure that's where I ordered them from 6 months ago, lol.

For e-brakes I can use the stock 14 bolt drums attached to chains like anchors, lol.

Just found chevy 63's for the rear!!! now for the front, 52's maybe.

[Etcetera]

First of all, the cup holder area of my YJ leaks when a drink is spilled, and ruined everything in the center console, including my camera. Oh well, it was getting old anyways.

OK, so the chevy 44 is sitting on stands up front, could bolt it in if I had u-bolts. However, I definitely want to get rid of the 44" springs up front. I have 63's for the rear, I'm wondering if the rear springs would be any good up front? Same length as chevy 52's, no idea how they compare otherwise.

Dragged the 14 bolt under the rear. I could bolt that up to the stock springs. Not sure if it would clear the stock gas tank if it was still in there. I need to think about whether I want to mount the springs under the frame or keep them outboard. Keeping the front mount of the rear springs in the same space with a 63" spring puts the rear axle right about where I want it. Either way the perches need to be moved or at least modified to match the lift of the SOA up front.

Width with H2's is going to be really nice I think. WMS-WMS on the front is about 69" hhfgtr hc if I remember correctly, H2's have a 5.5" backspacing or so. Hubs are not sticking out past the wheel edge. Wish I had tires mounted right now.

Anyways, I'm going to have a really nice stock metal tank and factory skid plate for sale or trade pretty soon. Also going to have a heavy duty hitch that allows the spare in factory location. It's really stout.

[Etcetera]

Been mocking stuff up, trying different things out. I think the stock springs will work out front, I know the 63's will work great out back. Pretty sure I'll be building a square front drive shaft for now.

Growing pile of removed parts...
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep37.jpg


BEEF! This 14 bolt is getting a shave.
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep36.jpg


Chevy 63" spring laying on top of 14 bolt. These things weigh almost 75lbs with overload according to my old scale!
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep41.jpg


3/4 ton Chevy Dana 44. That's a rear waggy spring laying there.http://ericclaussen.com/jeep40.jpg


Ouch, good thing those hangers are going away anyways I guess.
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep39.jpg


Like new gas metal tank and skid, inside and out.
http://ericclaussen.com/jeep38.jpg