will take any water pump installation tips I can get

[brent]

This will be my first water pump, and I've done the reading etc, and I'm not asking anybody to walk me through it, just it's my Friday AM project.
Any comments about sequence/how long to let seal before filling/hazards when loosening all the other belts and pumps are appreciated.
Out of a random 15 phone calls, the cheapest garage quoted me 100 for installation. Screw that!
--Muchas Gracias, Brent

[timmirvin]

My best advice is patience and beer. If it is the first time you have done something like this, just do not get in a hurry.

Make sure your gasket suface on the timing chain cover is super clean and free of old gasket, oil, etc. I use acetone to do the final cleaning prior to applying the silicone.

I am not sure how different your 79 J10 is from my Wags, but there are shims/spacers around the AC compressor. Take time to remember how they go in. Keep track of which bolt goes where on the pump, mine has several sizes/lengths. I usually set the new pump on the floor and as I take bolts out, I put them in the new pump in the correct hole. I then put the old pump on the floor of the shop with all the bolts in the correct place and take them out one at a time to put in the new one. IIRC I also put the short ones in first, just to get the pump on and inplace.

Then after you get the pump on and tight, put all the accessories (power steering, alternator, AC) back on, tightened all bolts, then re-check all bolts, then lossen the necessary bolts to do the belts. This takes a little longer, but bolts don't get left loose.

From your other post you seem to be having some over heating problems....this would also be an excellent time to have the radiator rodded out, flush the block, definitely change the thermostat, and I would change the fan clutch......

Check all your belts while they are off and make sure your hoses are in good shape.

my 2 cents.....

[brent]

All valuable advice, thanks.
I don't have a fan clutch or the 100 or so for new clutch/blades.
My only regret right now--due to time constraints (and yes I have een *****ing about my cooling system to this board since summer began but I got all the new components and I'm ready to roll NOW)is the crappy Autozone upper/lower rad hoses I bought. Not even a manufacturer name on the hoses. I'd like to replace the Goodyears I have now, but I'd have to wait another week (I don't believe I can afford to) while Anyshop, USA "orders them."
Can't believe Goodyears aren't on the open market, ready-to-buy--believe me, I've been callin.
-Brent

[Millerluck]

What Tim says...and a few more.

Make sure you take the spring out from the old lower hose and move it to any new hose. Keeps it from collapsing.

When you are putting on the heater hose to the water pump do it before any brackets get in the way. (Been there done that the hard way.)

Leave the thermostat till last thing. With all the rest put together and tight. Pour your coolant (50/50 mix up here in Michigan) down the hole in the intake that the thermostat drops into. Filling up the block like this will help keep from getting hot spots waiting for the thermostat to open. Then drop in the thermostat(the right way Been there done that berfore too). Silicone gaskit on bothe sides. Pun on housing. Hoses to housing. Then top off radiator.

Start the Jeep and let it warm up. Look for leaks. Also keep an eye on the temp gauge. Shut it off when it gets warmed up. Let it cool compleatly. Repeat this heat cycle a few times, add coolant as needed. Take a very short drive the first time. This just helps work out air that might be traped in the block.

Larry Miller

[badaboom]

Be careful not to over touque the water pump mounting bolts. They are a bit wimpy and I have seen them break off time to time.

[Bob Barry]

I'd go even further and recommend buying new grade-8 1/4" bolts for attaching the water-pump to the front cover. And use anti-sieze.

Be prepared to drill out broken-off 1/4" bolts, and helicoil the holes.

To keep all bolts in order, I trace an outline of the water-pump in a piece of cardboard (inside of the new water-pump box cover is good), and poke a slit with a utility knife wherever there is a bolt. Then, when I remove each bolt, I put it in the corresponding space in the cardboard outline. Also beware that the bolt mounting bosses on the new pump may sit at a different height from the mounting surface than the old pump. The new pump will usually include spacers to compensate; figure out which spacers you need at which bolt BEFORE you start trying to bolt it all back together.

I also NEVER use silicone on the water-pump gasket. I don't want it squeezing out and floating free in the cooling system. If both surfaces are clean and smooth, it should seal just fine.

Pull the block drains on each side to get all the coolant out. I find that there's enough to spill out, even if you drain out the radiator. Those block-drains are 9/16"-headed pipe-plugs, and may need a LOT of leverage to get off. Use a 6-point socket so you don't round them off. Don't be surprised if nothing pours out when you remove the drains; they are at the lowest point of the block, and a lot of sediment often blocks the opening. Just poke in there with a screwdriver to clear it.

Yes, you will have to remove ALL the bolts for the PS pump and A/C bracket, and enough from the alternator that it's just as easy to remove the whole thing.

This is one of those jobs that is easier on other makes, but it's still a good morning project.

[Green Giant]

Piece of cake unless.................the stud that the PS pump mounts to welds itself to the timing cover and wrings off. Like this:
http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/1974-1983-Cherokees/78Chief3.jpg

Turned a simple afternoon job into a 3 week ordeal. I had to replace the timing cover.
The cover is aluminum and is sandwiched between the iron block and the iron water pump. And tied together with steel bolts. The disimilar metals cause corrosion and all kinds of nasty things tend to happen.
Use plenty of penetrating oil (PB Blaster) and patience.

[fitron74]

Brent,
Use a 3/8' torque wrench to tighten the water pump bolts to the correct torque.Borrow one if you have to.
fitron74

[gsmikie]

you could go see uncle gsmikie hes just up the road (100 miles) :D :D

[jeepstruck]

It always helps me to take a picture before I get started. Then you can get everything back where it belongs. :cool:

[Allen78J20]

Easy stuff. Make sure as you snug down the bolts, spin the pump by hand to make sure it moves freely. For some reason I decided to do this, and the pump spun and caught. The impeller was not straight. A few minutes with a level, a 2x4, and GENTLE taps, all was good and works great to this day(2 years). Other than that its a easy job!

[kreb]

keep your bolts organized and do what you have to keep the accessory bracket's placement memorized. NAPA is supposed to carry a heavy duty aluminum water pump under their durapro brand made by GMB

benjamin

[marine02]

Spray all your bolts down with penetrating oil the night before, and spray them again the morning of they have a tendency to snap. Take good note of all the brackets. Put anti seize on your new ones so that if you ever have to take them out again your set.

[porkchop]

I also found it easier if you remove the radiator. May be a little more work but you can flush the radiator at the same time to get out all the gunk. With the radiator out of the way and the grill off you have clear access to the front of the engine.

[ July 25, 2003, 05:52 AM: Message edited by: porkchop ]