View Full Version : post mount removal
dajeeps
05-12-2010, 02:37 PM
i need to remove it,no rivets holding it on,so i been hammering on it.it is moving but shuold it come right off.or could it be the rust holding it on.
or is their a post that goes through the frame for the mount?
red mistress
05-12-2010, 03:31 PM
I got Elliotts out by grinding off the rivet heads, then used air chisel with drift punch to knock out the rivets.
It took alot of air (pnuematic) chiseling to get some of them out.
Lindel
05-12-2010, 03:50 PM
They grow attached after so many years...
You've got to remember, they hold the vehicle up off the ground (via the springs), they're meant to be stout and well attached!
Elliott
05-12-2010, 04:01 PM
The post goes through the frame and into a plate on the other side where it is welded on the end. You have to cut the weld around that end of the post or just cut the end off if not saving the post.
dajeeps
05-12-2010, 10:49 PM
after more examination,it looks like the post does go through the frame.like elliot said.i tried my cutting torch ,guess what no oxyasetaline.just my luck,lol
so i have a few tricks yet well see tomorrow,how it goes
Mikel
05-13-2010, 02:58 AM
after more examination,it looks like the post does go through the frame. :confused::confused:
dajeeps
05-13-2010, 10:14 PM
i spent 2 hours angle grinding the post mount off.i does go through the frame.what a pain that was,lol
Mikel
05-13-2010, 10:45 PM
i spent 2 hours angle grinding the post mount off.i does go through the frame.what a pain that was,lol
Then itīs nothing like the ones I have removed, which were held in place only by rivets :confused:
I would love to see some pictures.
COLOFIREMAN
05-13-2010, 11:02 PM
I agree, I just laid the cutting tip on top of the rivet head with the heat focused towards the rivet, since it's made of cast and is softer. This allows you to blow right through it without cutting the mount and then the frame, then grind the remainder. After your done just cut the "dome" portion of the mount. Now get your elbow grease out, a large soft flat tip chisel, and a heavy single handed hammer. Then place the hammer between the frame and the outside mount and it'll come. But a word of caution, DON"T use a double handed sledge, the chisel will become a missile that Murphy's Law will always send flying for your lower anatomy. Take it from one that learned the hard way.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd218/COLOJEEPGUY2K/IMAGE_313.jpg
As you can see I bolted the Dodge mounts that I used. Best thing is one of the lower bolt holes is used to square up the rear springs.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd218/COLOJEEPGUY2K/mytruck4.jpg
Elliott
05-14-2010, 07:15 AM
There is a bracket on the other side of the frame from this one, the post goes through the frame and is welded at the end to the other bracket:
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd218/COLOJEEPGUY2K/IMAGE_313.jpg
Pretty sure my J2000 rear posts are welded on the back of the frame also.
I saved them, I'll check with pic's this weekend.
COLOFIREMAN
05-14-2010, 08:13 AM
I just checked on mine and you guys are right. I just cut the pin off flush with the front of the frame.:cool:
Mikel
05-14-2010, 01:31 PM
Pretty sure my J2000 rear posts are welded on the back of the frame also.
I saved them, I'll check with pic's this weekend.
Maybe they changed over the years. I have removed posts from ī63 and ī64 trucks and it was just rivets in both cases.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s80/tadsal/TechPics/postmounts.jpg
1972 J2000
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