GW Alternator AMPS...

[BurnsSide42]

What is the factory AMPS on the alternator? I am looking at a 100 AMP "upgrade" and an 180 AMP Alternator for our 88 GW. They are a good price for rebuilt alternators in new GM cases for cooling. Wanted to know what was originally in the GW's, and that i'm doing the best thing. Ours currently mustn' be outting it's proper ampridge cause if you hit the gas, or use any power, the interior lights and radio all dim. So yeah, THX ;)

[4DWUDS]

60 amps was stock, The factory "Heavy Duty" upgrade got you a 90 amp. If your looking for a 95 amp try a 85 S-10, you will have to reclock the case and replace the pully but its a good delco unit

[BurnsSide42]

so would a 100 amp upgrade be sufficient for running the basics and a better stereo + the FOG lamps seen below under "Our Mint 88 Jeep"? Or should we/I go all the way and get the 180 AMP?

The 100 AMP is like $70 and the 180 AMP is like $150

[4DWUDS]

The 100 amp should do just fine for what you need. If you going to run a winch at night with all the lights focused on the dance floor and a 5000 watt stereo playing Ina-Goda-Davida at full tilt and the ac/dc converter pluged into the blender making Marguaritas, Whell then CALL ME first then put on the 150 amp.

[BurnsSide42]

180 amps...and ok, lol thx...so where's the party and who's bringing the dip ;)
I'll go for the 100 AMP then, THX

[ March 02, 2003, 06:40 PM: Message edited by: BurnsSide42 ]

[billyrb]

Our rigs, running full accessories, an aftermarket stereo, lights, etc., would reach MIN. 85Amps. Rule is, decide what you need, then use a multiplier of roughly 2, or as close as you can. If you have an Alt that is capable of 180 amps, then it will produce 180 amps ONLY when the draw reaches that amount. IE: if you are running normal items, or all for that matter, it will only provide as many amps as you are using. Think about it this way: if you are going to drive 2,000 miles, uphill, towing another jeep, which would be the best choice: a single-cylinder lawnmower engine, or a Big Block V8?

I would recommend a few things:
</font> Rework your factory Ammeter.....as I recall, it can heat up and catch fire</font> Install a voltmeter under the hood</font> Upgrade your wiring all around (ie, don't use a 4 or 6 gauge battery cable....use 2 gauge)</font> Use a 160-180 Amp alternator (one wire style)</font> Check each and every connection and ground while you are at it.</font> Install an 85-90 Amp fuseable link between the battery and the fuseblock.
</font>Now, per usual, these are just my opinions. I hope having another perspective helps.</font> Spend the money and do it right the first time

[ March 02, 2003, 07:33 PM: Message edited by: billyrb ]

[4DWUDS]

There is a formula to figure out just how many amps you need but thats one I cant remember where I saw it. I'm sure someone here has a better memory than me. redface.gif

[BurnsSide42]

hmm...you ppl make good points.... lol THX! I will now goto my corner and reconsider...lol

[Matthew W. Woodruff]

Originally posted by 4DWUDS:
60 amps was stock, The factory "Heavy Duty" upgrade got you a 90 amp. If your looking for a 95 amp try a 85 S-10, you will have to reclock the case and replace the pully but its a good delco unitWhat does "reclock the case" mean?
Is 85 S-10 a Delco part no?

What will installing a voltmeter under the hood do for me?

I am in the same fix with a finicky alternator, so
any help here is appreciated.

[Joe Guilbeau]

Re-clock the case has to do with the various mounting configurations of the alternators.

Ie...make sure that if fits and bots up right in the correct position, otherwise like the hands of time, ("Re-Clock) the case means to take the case apart and turn the case half near the pully to get the right configuration to mount it properly.

I use a CS130 Delco, these can be had in boneyards for about $18 dollars each, and a lot of late model GM's had them, they output about 100 Amps or so.

Some folks don't like all those amps running amok under the dashboard, and remove the wiring and replace it with a voltmeter.

Putting a voltmeter under the hood would give you confirmation that the alternator is outputting simply by reving the engine and ovserving the voltmeter (I suppose).

Now follow Billyrb's suggestions and you will be set.

JAG

[billyrb]

Agreed on the voltmeter. This is a good double check to make sure the volts are where they should be. Do a search and you'll find out about the factory Ammeter fire hazard.

[mdill]

Be warned, in the "amps" war bigger is not always better. The way
a alt specs it's max output is at rated RPM, where we want amps is
at idle (Humm). Many if not most "high" amp alts don't produce anything
at idle, if dead set on getting a large alt. look for a GM CS144 (either the 120
amp or 140 amp) These guys will produce an honest 50+ amps at idle.
In either case with the swap to 100+ amp alt any FSJ you need to address
how is the 100+ amps going to get out of the alt (The stock wiring is not
up to the job) Lucky for you the 86+ don't have a in cab amp guage, and the
only wire that needs to change is the alt-output -&gt; starter lug wire, don't
forget to add a properly sized fusable link in the new wire.

Mike D.