Stu
05-06-2010, 06:43 PM
Well, sometimes I have these brain storms, of things that seem like they'll make life way easier. I can't help but think, "why didn't someone do this before?" And then usually half way through, I realize why no one did that before. Because it was completely stupid, and I'm retarded for trying.
Getting to the point, I recently discovered I had a cracked head on my 360, so after I had stripped the heads, intake, and exhaust of my 87 GW, being unsure and even frightened by the things the previous owner did, I decided it was a good idea to rebuild my motor.
Not a big deal, I've pulled several motors. I'm a mechanic for a living, so I have access to all the tools needed. Lift, engine hoist, stand, power tools. As I started pulling parts off, drive shafts, exhaust hangers, I notice that the motor mounts are bolted onto brackets that remove from the frame. My mind starts wandering. I was somewhat concerned about how best to seperate the motor from the transmission. If I removed the transfer case, then transmission, there wouldn't be much holding the engine in place. I was afraid it might rock forward, and onto the ground.
Now, if any of you have ever been to a shop or a salvage yard, and seen how they pull motors and trannies out of "transverse mounted engine" vehicles, (the silly sideways motors) you'd know that they drop the motor and tranny as a unit out the bottom of the vehicle. Ah, now you see my oval wheel that won't roll......
So I look it over, and decide this will work. I got get the engine dolly we use for removing motors, lower the jeep down onto it so the tranny cross member sits on the dolly. I then supported the oil pan with a floor jack. Lift the motor to remove the motor mounts, and the pass side bracket from the frame. Removed the bolts from the rear cross member. At about that time I realized my e-brake cables go through that cross member. This is starting to take longer than I thought.
I know the oil pan sticks a couple inches past the track bar and front axle. (I've removed the accessories and timing cover before going to pull the drivetrain). So I try to pull the driveline back the requisite couple inches. It won't budge. So I try harder. Still nothing. Crawl under, and oh yeah, there's a gas tank there. The h3ll. So now there's some wiggling, and prying, and possibly some kicking, then suddenly home free. Lifted the truck above the drive train, and everything was free.
Took I think about 3 hours give or take. In retrospect, it probably would have been easier and quicker to do it the old fashioned way. Lol. So food for thought, sometimes the traditional way is the best! Just because you can do something doesn't mean you should. You CAN in fact, remove your motor from the bottom............I'd just highly highly recommend against it.
Getting to the point, I recently discovered I had a cracked head on my 360, so after I had stripped the heads, intake, and exhaust of my 87 GW, being unsure and even frightened by the things the previous owner did, I decided it was a good idea to rebuild my motor.
Not a big deal, I've pulled several motors. I'm a mechanic for a living, so I have access to all the tools needed. Lift, engine hoist, stand, power tools. As I started pulling parts off, drive shafts, exhaust hangers, I notice that the motor mounts are bolted onto brackets that remove from the frame. My mind starts wandering. I was somewhat concerned about how best to seperate the motor from the transmission. If I removed the transfer case, then transmission, there wouldn't be much holding the engine in place. I was afraid it might rock forward, and onto the ground.
Now, if any of you have ever been to a shop or a salvage yard, and seen how they pull motors and trannies out of "transverse mounted engine" vehicles, (the silly sideways motors) you'd know that they drop the motor and tranny as a unit out the bottom of the vehicle. Ah, now you see my oval wheel that won't roll......
So I look it over, and decide this will work. I got get the engine dolly we use for removing motors, lower the jeep down onto it so the tranny cross member sits on the dolly. I then supported the oil pan with a floor jack. Lift the motor to remove the motor mounts, and the pass side bracket from the frame. Removed the bolts from the rear cross member. At about that time I realized my e-brake cables go through that cross member. This is starting to take longer than I thought.
I know the oil pan sticks a couple inches past the track bar and front axle. (I've removed the accessories and timing cover before going to pull the drivetrain). So I try to pull the driveline back the requisite couple inches. It won't budge. So I try harder. Still nothing. Crawl under, and oh yeah, there's a gas tank there. The h3ll. So now there's some wiggling, and prying, and possibly some kicking, then suddenly home free. Lifted the truck above the drive train, and everything was free.
Took I think about 3 hours give or take. In retrospect, it probably would have been easier and quicker to do it the old fashioned way. Lol. So food for thought, sometimes the traditional way is the best! Just because you can do something doesn't mean you should. You CAN in fact, remove your motor from the bottom............I'd just highly highly recommend against it.