Gameplan for "slight" engine overhaul

[CJ the noisemaker]

Okay, so even though I haven't done a compression test on the six today, I have begun to formulate a list of things I will need and set up a game plan.

GAMEPLAN - 258 FIX

Issues:
1. Engine has blow-by
2. Coolant system develops air pockets
3. Engine leaks oil from rear.

Quick checks:
1. Tighten any bolts on engine to see if this was the issue
2. Do compression test before and after tightening

If problems persist:
1. Flush engine out with (ATF fluid? Diesel fuel? Engine flush?)
2. During oil change and Coolant Flush, I will remove the head and oil pan to get to the rear main seal, pistons, and head gasket.
3. Change piston rings, rear main seal, head gasket, oil pan gasket, and valve cover gasket.
4. Use heavier viscosity oil and use an AC Delco oil filter.

Remember; this is for my trip to Arizona, and I figured this engine is past due for an overhaul. If anybody has any other suggestions, leave a reply below.

Based on what I have been hearing, It would be hard to blow up one of these engines. So a crack developing wouldn't be common, right?

Also, the work will be documented in my CAD restoration thread, and all pics will be there.
(it's no longer Cheap As Dirt :D)

[[]V[]AXX]

I didn't read the entirety of the CAD thread. Do you think it will make it to AZ as it is? What does it need to make it? Set your priorities, and go. I don't advise getting into a re-ring job. You do not want to pull that head until you're ready to fully rebuild. At that point, you may want to just look for a remanufactured engine to dump in it. You may even consider a 4.0 swap out of a junker. You could buy a reman long block 4.0 engine, and grab the fuel injection and ECU out of a junkyard XJ. What kind of work facilities do you have where you are now? A local rebuilder might have a reman engine right there in town. If you have the money, you may consider the swap before you move. If you don't, do only what you have to, to get it down to it's new home. Don't spend a chunk of money now, only to have to spend it and more again in a few months. I spent about $1800 total rebuilding mine. http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab109/maxx55svx/1979%20Jeep%20J10/S4020734.jpg

[CJ the noisemaker]

I think it can, but I still have to do the rear main seal so it doesn't leak out. That will go along with the oil change, coolant flush, and ignition overhaul.

[azpackrat]

Before you plan extensive repairs it would be best to determine the overall health of your engine. Replacing the rings without the accompanying machine work to the block is almost always a waste of money. If the rings are bad you can bet the bearings and the head are not far behind.
So my advice would be to get the necessary equipment/tools to test the engine and learn how to do the testing properly, compression, vacuum, oil pressure. Post your results and let everyone discuss and argue and advise. You can also have your oil analyzed, and your exhaust gasses analyzed for additional information.
I understand your finaces are limited but in the long run you will save time, money, and frustration, if you fix it instead of patching it, and you can't fix it until you know whats wrong. So do your testing before you start wrenching!;)

[lost1]

...in the long run you will save time, money, and frustration, if you fix it instead of patching it...

Boy oh boy I could have used that advice on past vehicles! That's sound, solid wisdom from (unless my radar's off) a voice of experience.;)

Fix it right or suffer later, that's how I've come to look at things. That said, it may still make the trip south depending on how bad things are. More info, perhaps?

[CJ the noisemaker]

Right now, the air pockets are still forming in the coolant system; however, I have yet to add any water since the air gets pushed out and replaced by coolant in the resivour. It doesn't boil, so the system must be running at a good temp.

But I still have yet to test the engine.