Distributor upgrade for 87 Grand Wag

[rattletrap]

I remember reading a while back that you could take a distributor from a early 80's 460 Ford engine and use it in place of the distributor for a Wagoneer. Whoever put the post out had detailed instruction on what needs to be done to make the conversion and unfortunatly I can't find the old post. Can someone help me.
I am looking to upgrade the ignition on my wag and would like to give it try w/the larger distributor, instead of spending alot of cash on a MSD distributor(or something similiar). From what I remember, the upgrade was rather inexpensive for the Ford distributor. Just trying to strech my cash for other upgrades on the Jeep.
Note: I did think that the upgrade process was under the Tech Tips section, but couldn't find it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

[reddog]

First of all welcome "Rattletrap"!! IMO you have come to the best FSJ board on the web. Great info here, to say nothing of the great people.

I believe the upgrade your looking for is the "TeamRush" or TFI upgrade. It will use your existing distributor and upgrade the cap/rotor, plug wires and coil using readily available Ford parts (your existing distributor is a Ford/Motorcraft unit).

I did the upgrade (the #2 upgrade - see link below) to my 87 Wag using a coil (and connector & bracket) and cap adapter from a junkyard - cost $8 - and a new cap&rotor and plug wires - cost about $60. The hardest thing was figuring out what plug wires to get. I looked at the specs for the existing set of plug wires and tried to match the length with a set of the newer style wires (required for the newer style cap/rotor) and I ended up using plug wires from two sets to insure that the wire set was long enough. After I got home and installed the wires I found that I likely could have just got by with the prepackaged set of wires that most closely matched the old set's length.
Also in the instructions it specifys using parts from a 460 1 ton ford truck. Not many of these in junkyards and after asking the part counter nimrods who had no clue I found out through looking at cars and books that:

1. The adapter for the distributor cap came on many 80s Ford and Mercury 302 and 351 cars - you need the adapter that uses the distributor clips to hold it on, not the one that uses screws.

2. The TFI coil also came on many of the same era cars. I have noticed that the coil bracket from a V6 Ford Taurus looks like the most useable for our purposes.


A couple of suggestions are that if cost is an issue go to the local "Pick-ur-Part" and get the coil, coil bracket, coil connector and distributor cap adapter. These parts are common but I would pay attention to the donor car and not get the coil from a car that has been underwater. You can usually tell if it has by a coating of dirt all through the car - engine compartment included. I have only heard of one person having a problem with the coil from a junkyard and at the cost its easy enough to just get another. Mine has been fine.
I did not change the mechanical advance springs in the distributor until after I had run the TFI setup for a few weeks. The biggest change was the TFI setup - the spring change did'nt make much difference.
Get new wires and get a new cap/rotor that has brass contacts IMHO. Don't forget to regap your plugs to about .045 gap.

Look at this link and it explains the process

http://www.trailhed.com/duraspark%20upgrade.html

The upgrade is well worth the cost and the larger cap/rotor and new style plug wires is really needed if you go to a MSD or similar ignition in the future.

Rambling as usual...


Kerry

HEY! Where's Jason?? http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/smile.gif
------------------
87 GW - Stock
TFI upgrade
360,727,NP229

[This message has been edited by reddog (edited December 09, 2000).]

[This message has been edited by reddog (edited December 09, 2000).]

[This message has been edited by reddog (edited December 09, 2000).]

[This message has been edited by reddog (edited December 09, 2000).]

[Slippery]

Here I Am!(Just got outta bed-- up all night with cryin' baby! http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/mad.gif )

Rattletrap, your '87 has a Motorcraft distributor, and a Motorcraft is a Motorcraft, no need to get one outta a F*ord or drop $$$ on a fancy aftermarket billet unit!

See Teach's "Let's try this again" thread for more info. (We just went over this yesterday http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/wink.gif)



------------------
Jason K.
"No FSJ yet, but wait..."

[rattletrap]

Thanks alot. This was the exact info I was trying to find. I just had the engine on my wag rebuilt and put a edelbrock performer manifold and 600cfm/4brl/vac secondaries carb along w/other minor upgrades like 4 row radiator, al new vac lines/hoses,etc.. My wife's cousin did all the work and I can't wait to get my wag back to start tinkering w/the ignition. He is now just fine tuning the carb and setting the timing. I should have my wag this weekend.

Your right, this is the best FSJ forum on the web. Up until now I have just been viewing the tech info. I'm happy to be a FSJ owner and maybe able to pass along some valuable info to someone else in the future. Thanks again for the help.

[RudyC]

I did the upgrade last weekend.
I got the distributor cap base ($1.00) and TFI coil ($6.00)at the pick a part.
and the cap and rotor from pepboys(borg warner) I'll post the pepboys number on this message later when i find the receipt. while i did get new accell wires at first i found a mint set of 8mm wires at the junkyard so i took the wires back and used the junker wires $3.00.
The cool part is that i needed new cap, rotor anyway.

HERE TRY THIS LINK. It helped me alot.
http://www.trailhed.com/duraspark%20upgrade.html


------------------
1979 WAGONEER, 360,
TEAM RUSH TFI CONVERSION (EL CHEAPO VERSION), TH400, Q- TRAC. 3" ADD A LEAFS, 31" MUD T/A'S (PEP BOYS CLONES).
" Go farther, it only breaks on the street"

[This message has been edited by RudyC (edited December 09, 2000).]

[Mike87]

I have a question about wires.

I'm doing a similar upgrade, but using a MSD Blaster 2F ( a little more expensive but no need to get a new connector and figure out how/where to mount a TFI coil).

For wires I was planning to use Ford Motorsport 9mm wires for 302/351. Will these be the right length and plug ends. What applications has everyone used successfully?

Thanks for your help.

87 J10 w/ dual exhaust
Future Upgrades:
MSD Ignition
Edelbrock Performer
Holley TBI

[DLyons]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Mike87:
I have a question about wires.
For wires I was planning to use Ford Motorsport 9mm wires for 302/351. Will these be the right length and plug ends. What applications has everyone used successfully?

Thanks for your help.

87 J10 w/ dual exhaust
Future Upgrades:
MSD Ignition
Edelbrock Performer
Holley TBI<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I got all my parts from a salvage yard including the wires. The parts came off of a mid to late 80s Merc station wagon that had a fuel injected 302 (5.0) in it. The wires fit perfectly.
Dave

[RudyC]

The number 8 plug will be a long reach.
I used a set of junk yard 8mm motorcraft wires off a 351 ford and I had to use the longest wire in the set and route it under everything to make it fit. measure the longest wire in the set and see if it fits first.

------------------
1979 WAGONEER, 360,
TEAM RUSH TFI CONVERSION (EL CHEAPO VERSION), TH400, Q- TRAC. 3" ADD A LEAFS, 31" MUD T/A'S (PEP BOYS CLONES).
" Go farther, it only breaks on the street"
http://home.earthlink.net/~zzjoecool/index.html

[reddog]

I cheated a little (SHHHHHHH, don't tell anyone) and looked in the spec book at Pep Boys. I found the stock set for my Wag and then found a set of the newer style with the shortest two wires as long as possible. I then found another set of the new style with the two longest wires possible and switched those two with the shortest two from the first set. The set fit good then!! And don't worry I tossed the box from the donor set so nobody after me would get a bad set of wires. Hey Pep Boys owed me one but I won't get into that now...

Hey Rudy, did you get out and look at those FSJs at the yard??

Kerry


[This message has been edited by reddog (edited December 09, 2000).]

[RudyC]

No red dog, wife had to work today so i had to stay home with the kids. I'll try tommorow. I called the phone number to get a price but its a recording.
I rebuilt the carb again and this time it's a big improvement. just got to fine tine it some more. oh and i need to find a timing light since i moved my distributor to keep the hose from rubbing on the pulleys.
oh yea i posted pictures of the TFI upgrade on my web page. http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/biggrin.gif

------------------
1979 WAGONEER, 360,
TEAM RUSH TFI CONVERSION (EL CHEAPO VERSION), TH400, Q- TRAC. 3" ADD A LEAFS, 31" MUD T/A'S (PEP BOYS CLONES).
" Go farther, it only breaks on the street" http://home.earthlink.net/~zzjoecool/index.html

[This message has been edited by RudyC (edited December 09, 2000).]

[This message has been edited by RudyC (edited December 09, 2000).]

[Teach]

Wait a minute...Now if I upgrade my dist from a Prestolite to an Motorcraft via the tech article, doesn't that mean that I could ignore the AMC dist that MSD puts out and put in a Motorcraft replacement...? I'm really confused here.

------------------
Teach
'76 Wagoneer
360,Q-T,Edlebrock Intake/carb, D44's, 3.07, really big after market gas tank!
"If it ain't one thing, it's another...."

[reddog]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Teach:
Wait a minute...Now if I upgrade my dist from a Prestolite to an Motorcraft via the tech article, doesn't that mean that I could ignore the AMC dist that MSD puts out and put in a Motorcraft replacement...? I'm really confused here.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Correct - you could update from the prestolite to a motorcraft (it must be an AMC motorcraft distributor) and upgrade the motorcraft distributor with the larger cap/rotor (wires too) using the adapter for the larger cap along with using the TFI coil. You can still run a MSD ignition with the motorcraft distributor you DO NOT need the MSD distributor.


[This message has been edited by reddog (edited December 11, 2000).]

[Teach]

Okay, they are not direct replacements for each other...You are simply replacing the top of the dist?

I'm curious about this because I burned up a dist cap the other day and want to find the reason and FIX it!

------------------
Teach
'76 Wagoneer
360,Q-T,Edlebrock Intake/carb, D44's, 3.07, really big after market gas tank!
"If it ain't one thing, it's another...."

[Slippery]

Oops, lack of hands-on experience is tripping me up here. I *think* you have to swap in the whole system, Duraspark box and all, 'cause you're going from points to electronic and need the "brain" to run it!

I'm just not sure...Kerry?

Sorry, Teach, don't mean to mislead or leave ya hangin' http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/redface.gif

------------------
Jason K.
"No FSJ yet, but wait..."

[reddog]

This is true. If your going from the stock points setup to the Duraspark ignition then you would need the box. I THINK that all "modern" AMC V8s use the same distributor. I will try to research that. Looking at the wiring diagram for the Duraspark setup it would be easy to retro into an older V8 if the distributors are in fact interchangeable. Two wires (start and run) from the ignition switch, the distributor connector and the ground wire from the coil are all that goes to the Duraspark box. I have seen alot of the "blue" Duraspark boxes in the junkyard.

I was under the impression that you had the MSD 6a in your rig already Teach. Is that true or am I spacin?? I THINK (maybe thats how I get into trouble - all that thinking??) that the MSD box replaces the duraspark box. I have not run a MSD in a Jeep before so I am not sure about that.

I'll try to learn something about it (and think a little less) and post more.

Kerry

------------------
87 GW - Stock
TFI upgrade
360,727,NP229

[rattletrap]

Hey Rudy. Read your post about scoring a good set of wires when you were getting the TFI coil and Dist. adaptor from the local pick and pull. I kept this in mind this weekend and found myself a good set of Duramax 8.6mm wires that looked brand new. Also found a great looking cap and rotor. I know this sounds like I'm penny pinching, but the cap and rotor look great. The cap has no corrosion or signs of wear. I was really planning to just by new ones. What do you think? Loosen the pocket book a bit?

I got my TFI coil from a Ford Taurus with the bracket. Were is the best place to mount the coil in the engine? Does it matter?

------------------
87 Grand Wagoneer/Waggy
360/727
dana 44 frnt/rear
600 cfm edelbrock carb
edelbrock performer intake
and one new baby girl/Madison Elise, born 9-28-00

[reddog]

Checked out the MSD website and looked at the instructions for installing a MSD 6 box into a Duraspark ignition. There are two ways to do it. First is sending the distributor signal through the Duraspark box and using it to trigger the MSD unit. Second you can bypass the Duraspark box and just use the distributor to trigger the MSD box directly. Both setups use the 12 volts from the existing coil positive terminal to power the MSD coil through the MSD box.

As for the MSD distributor for the AMC it doesn't say what years it covers but it fits 290, 304, 360, 390 and 401s. That being the case then the AMC motorcraft distributor will fit any 360. If you have the MSD 6a you do not need the Duraspark box, but without the MSD ignition then yes you would need the Duraspark box (blue - wire relief).

Yes Teach the advantage to the AMC motorcraft distributor is that you can use the adapter from later Ford ignitions to use a larger cap/rotor and the better designed spark plug wires. You can go from the point distributor to the AMC Motorcraft distributor. You will need the duraspark box if you DO NOT have a MSD 6 ignition. The larger cap/rotor setup on the AMC motorcraft distributor will work with either box.

I keep saying the AMC motorcraft distributor because it rotates in the opposite direction when compared to the FORD distributor (small block at least).

Any questions keep posting. If you do go from a points to the Duraspark let us know.

Kerry

------------------
87 GW - Stock
TFI upgrade
360,727,NP229

[rattletrap]

Reddog, So I not only need the TFI coil, dist. adaptor, rotor/dist., and wires, but also a new duraspark or MSD box?

When I got the TFI coil I had to remove a set of wires that were clipped onto the coil. Do these wires go to the duraspark box? When I removed the wires, I just figured that my wag would have the same ones to plug into the TFI coil. In the instructions, on the tech site, I don't think it mentions having to replace this. I don't have my wag right now to go and look for myself. Am I just really confused?

------------------
87 Grand Wagoneer/Waggy
360/727
dana 44 frnt/rear
600 cfm edelbrock carb
edelbrock performer intake
and one new baby girl/Madison Elise, born 9-28-00

[reddog]

Reddog, So I not only need the TFI coil, dist. adaptor, rotor/dist., and wires, but also a new duraspark or MSD box?

No. You already have the Duraspark box in your 87. Teach has an older truck than yours and he has a different stock ignition that you do.

When I got the TFI coil I had to remove a set of wires that were clipped onto the coil. Do these wires go to the duraspark box? When I removed the wires, I just figured that my wag would have the same ones to plug into the TFI coil.


No.

You needed to cut the wires to the TFI coil as you will need that connector.

All you do is cut the old coil connector off from your Wag and splice the new connector that you got (we hope) that fits the TFI coil. You need to make sure you get the coil wires positive to positive and negative to
negative. The wire colors will be different between the two so take the connector off the TFI coil and look carefully and you should see that the terminals on the TFI coil are marked "+" and "-".

Mount the coil (mine is on the engine but I would like to move it to the fender well someday). Connect the coil wires as above.
Take off the old cap (leave the wires on it for now) and rotor. Put the adapter on the distributor, put the new rotor on and then put the new cap on. Now put the new plug wires on one by one, pulling the old one off and putting the new one on. Now regap your spark plugs to about .045, and your done.

It could'nt hurt to check your timing but since you have NOT loosened your distributor it is not needed.

It is really quite easy, all this writting about doing it may be confusing you that it is difficult, it is not. I did it to my 87 in about a hour. The hardest part is mounting the coil - I mounted mine on the A/C compressor bracket but be careful as you may need longer bolts then the ones that are there. Also it needs to be grounded well through the bracket.

If the plug wires are good then great, I wasn't that trusting of 10 year old + wires so I got new. The cap/rotor are also ok, but it's likely they are aluminum contacts, brass is better. My wire set cost $35 (lifetime guarantee (SP?)) and ACCEL cap/rotor was $23.

I hope that clears it up, but if not keep those posts coming...

Kerry

------------------
87 GW - Stock
TFI upgrade
360,727,NP229

[This message has been edited by reddog (edited December 11, 2000).]

[jezmond]

ok guys,tell me what i need part for part, to do the upgrade to my 83 waggie ltd. do i have to change the whole dist?shaft and all. what about the ignition mod?will i have to upgrade to an msd or motorcraft duraspark? can you give me part numbers etc. thank for the info,j.martino

[This message has been edited by jezmond (edited December 12, 2000).]

[rattletrap]

Thanks alot Reddog. I'll let you know how things turn out. I am hoping this set up will serve me well until I can upgrade to step #3.

By the way the Dist. cap does have brass terminals and they look good. I am thinking that the veh I got it from must of had a tune up before it was wrecked. Thanks again.

[RudyC]

Rattletrap.
Yes use the Junker cap and rotor as they are way cheaper than new.
$4.50 for the rotor and $17.00 for the brass terminal cap. compared to $3.00 or so at the junk yard.
I mounted the TFI to the engine block were the old coil was. See my wed page on the below link I got a picture.
Inside the TFI coil connection is a + and -.

------------------
1979 WAGONEER, 360,
TEAM RUSH TFI CONVERSION (EL CHEAPO VERSION), TH400, Q- TRAC. 3" ADD A LEAFS, 31" MUD T/A'S (PEP BOYS CLONES).
" Go farther, it only breaks on the street" http://home.earthlink.net/~zzjoecool/index.html

[This message has been edited by RudyC (edited December 12, 2000).]

[reddog]

RT,

Clean living must work for ya!!
The next step (#3) is really just the addition of a MSD6 box. When you install that the larger cap/rotor/wires is certainly a good thing.

If you want to play with the mech advance springs it is not too hard. You don't even need to pull the distributor off to do it. You must be careful though not to beat/twist the distributor shaft because the distributor gear can't take it and if you break or chip it when its in the engine then you get to hunt down the broken pieces - NO FUN. After thinking about it take the distributor out to do it!! Just put a mark to on the distributor base with a chisel to line it back up on the block and mark where the rotor points with a marker on the distributor base and line those things back up when you put it back. After your done you should check the timing after putting the distributor back in.

All you do is pull the adapter/cap/rotor. then the "trigger" wheel (the little 8 blade thingy on the distributor shaft that spins by and triggers the ignition) being careful not to drop the small pin that holds the trigger. Sometimes it helps to soak the trigger wheel with a little liqiud wrench to help free it up. Pull the clip that holds the vacuum advance lever to the plate (also being careful not to drop it) and then take out the 2 screws that hold the vacuum diaphram on to the distributor and set it aside. Then you can unscrew the plate that holds the pickup and voila! the weights and springs are exposed. Usually the deal is to put on slightly lighter springs so the mech advance comes on at a lower RPM. The springs do not need to match - using a combination of different springs works fine as both springs combine to give a total pressure on the weights. Reassemble in reverse order and your set. Once again its easier than it sounds here. Good Luck!!

And Jez - you have the Duraspark already so what you need is an adapter for the larger cap, larger cap and rotor, new style plug wires and the TFI coil with bracket and connector. I can't really help you with part numbers as I pieced mine together as did many here. The only thing that I really bought "off the shelf" was an ACCEL cap and rotor - my memory tells me it was part number 8223 - but my memory has been known to LIE!! Check out this link - this guy sells kits with all the stuff you need. Glen is at driveajeep.com (http://driveajeep.com) .

Kerry

------------------
87 GW - Stock
TFI upgrade
360,727,NP229

[rattletrap]

Hey guys, I need help! I just put on the larger dist cap/adaptor and plug wires. I even got new wires and dist/rotor, instead of using the junkyard ones. Once hooked up the wag didnt want to start. I did get it to start but i had to keep the rpms up high otherwise the wag would turn off. Well I kept trying thinking everything was ok and then my wires from the can/coil burned up. There are 3 wires coming from the can. One is green w/a white stipe and I followed it from the coil around the engine dept and it goes into the cab. the other two come out of the horseshoe clip on the can/coil together. One was not connected to anything and it grounded on the engine and burned up. The other was spliced into a wire that connects to what looks to be the solenoid. Is this right? Now that my can/coil burned up I was going to put in the TFI coil but am afraid the wiring is not right.

I think the green wire w/the white stripe is the negative? and one of the wires that burned has to be the positive? Which one need to be grounded? I really would not want to burn up all of my wires or my wag altogether. I did chk the wires around the ones that burned and it appears that they did not get affected.

Where is the Duraspark box? My wag is a 87 and should have one, right?

I am trying to finish this today. Please help. Thanks.




------------------
87 Grand Wagoneer/Waggy
360/727
dana 44 frnt/rear
600 cfm edelbrock carb
edelbrock performer intake
and one new baby girl/Madison Elise, born 9-28-00

[RudyC]

nON SHOULD BE GROUDED.

------------------
1979 WAGONEER, 360,
TEAM RUSH TFI CONVERSION (EL CHEAPO VERSION), TH400, Q- TRAC. 3" ADD A LEAFS, 31" MUD T/A'S (PEP BOYS CLONES).
" Go farther, it only breaks on the street"
http://home.earthlink.net/~zzjoecool/index.html

[Slippery]

Here, hope this helps: http://www.trailhed.com/images/DuraSpar.jpg

IIRC, the Duraspark module should be on the driver's side inner fender. It's a silver box, about 6" square.
Here it is, next to the battery, installed on a Yamaha Moto-4! http://frodo.marshall.edu/~baksh2/Jun27-141.jpg
------------------
Jason K.
"No FSJ yet, but wait..."

[This message has been edited by Slippery (edited December 16, 2000).]

[rattletrap]

I found my Duraspark box, thanks. I also looked at the diagram and everything looks the same.

When I switched to the larger distributor cap I put the wires back exactly the way they came off the old one. What is the firing order? Maybe I put it wrong. this is ther order of the plugs from the left of the little black cap on the distributor counterclockwise. 8-4-3-6-5-7-2-1. The old set up worked fine w/this firing order. I even went back and put the old plugs back on, and the wag fired right up, no problem. I did not gap my plugs to .45 because the plugs are Botch Platnum and I don't believe they can be re-gapped.

I feel like I am really close, but can't figure it out. Thanks for all of the help. I must be leaving something out or setting something up wrong. Can you see it?

------------------
87 Grand Wagoneer/Waggy
360/727
dana 44 frnt/rear
600 cfm edelbrock carb
edelbrock performer intake
and one new baby girl/Madison Elise, born 9-28-00

[Slippery]

What you're saying is that the new setup worked with the old plugs, but not the new ones? Hmmmm, I'm stumped.

Maybe something to do with resistor/non-resistor plugs? Time to call in the experts--I could learn something new!

------------------
Jason K.
"No FSJ yet, but wait..."

[This message has been edited by Slippery (edited December 16, 2000).]

[reddog]

Hey RT,

To start it would be a good idea to look over both wires going to the coil along their entire length.

I am trying to make sure I understand what happened with ya. The one you say was not connected to anything is one of the three your talking about right?? Is it Yellow? I will assume that it is unless you tell me otherwise and what I am going to tell you is based on that assumtion. It sounds like that wire came disconnected and shorted - your car will not run with this wire disconnected.
First the Duraspark box SHOULD be on the inner fender, driver's side, close to the firewall. It will have two connectors going to it, one has two wires and the other has four. Find the box and look at the connector that has four wires - one of them should be green w/a white trace. This wire should go to the negitive terminal on the coil. Double check the green w/trace wire coming from the coil connection and ensure that it goes to the Duraspark box, it should not be going into the cab.
The wire that goes to the small soleniod looking that thing (actually a noise suppresor) connects to the positive side of the coil along with the other wire (which is likely yellow). I am assuming that it is the yellow wire that shorted and burned. The yellow wire is the positive and you need to go back and trace this wire carefully to ensure that ANY suspect looking wire is replaced.
This is the tricky part. There should be a resistor wire in that circuit (Yellow wire). This resistor wire may also be fried and needs to be replaced if it is. The purpose of the resistor wire is to limit the amount of voltage that gets to the coil while the engine is running. Before you get the resistor wire you should come to two wires spliced into that same circuit. One you should trace back and it should go back to the starting relay. The starting relay should be on the passinger side inner fender and has the positive battery cable going to it. The other should trace to the alternator. The purpose of the wire going to the starting relay is so that while the engine is starting the resistor is bypassed and the coil gets full voltage while the engine is starting.
As you keep tracing the positive wire back it will lead you to one of the main positive circuits coming from the ignition switch.

Starting at the coil and tracing this yellow wire back, past the joint that goes to the starting relay and past the resistor wire the size of the wire should increase from about 18-20 gauge to 10 gauge - it will be a noticeable increase in size. HOPEFULLY only the smaller wire is burned. As I said you need to replace ANY wire that is burned and also the resistor wire also if it looks questionable AT ALL. It may even look OK but be fried.
So when you get things back together and all hooked up, if the Wag won't start and you HAVE NOT replaced the resistor wire that would be the first thing to suspect. Turn the key on and check if you have voltage at the coil. Either with a volt meter or a "trouble light". There should be about 12 volts at the coil.

Soooooo, The yellow wire is the positive and connects with the noise suppressor to the positive connector on the coil.. The green w/trace connects to the negitive connection on the coil.

I would think that you may need to get the resistor wire from the dealer but a good parts place MAY have it.

When you get it together and start it up have a fire extinguisher standing by just in case. The time it takes to run and get one in case something happens could be the time it takes for a fire to get out of hand. I can't stess enough about safety. Off the soapbox...

Hope this rant is of some help...

Kerry

------------------
87 GW - Stock (but it looks like RiverBeast when I'm sleeping)
TFI upgrade
360,727,NP229

[This message has been edited by reddog (edited December 16, 2000).]

[reddog]

Ok I'm back. Had to look up overkill in the dictionary.

Firing order is correct. Platnium plugs can be gapped like non platnium plugs. Do you mean it runs with the larger cap/rotor and old spark plugs but it not with the new plugs??

Make sure you don't have the cap rotated 180 degrees. Check to see that the adapter/cap is seated all the way so that the rotor contacts the cap.

------------------
87 GW - Stock (but it looks like RiverBeast when I'm sleeping)
TFI upgrade
360,727,NP229

[RudyC]

where did you get the cap/rotor/base?
You said one of the wires was ground and thats the one that fried? That same wire or at the coil a wire connected to it goes to a sloenid looking thing?
Am I ok so far?
IS that solenoid on the passenger fender with battery cables on each end?
if not is the solenoid on the carb on the drivers side?
Just trying to find out where this solenoid is.
This is tricky without a volt meter.

The dura spark unit has a plug with 2 wires and one with 4 wires.
Unplug the 2 wire plug and unplug the wires from the coil. The thick red with a strip wire is the one that connects to the + on the coil. the green wire on the 4 wire plug connects to the - on the coil.

------------------
1979 WAGONEER, 360,
TEAM RUSH TFI CONVERSION (EL CHEAPO VERSION), TH400, Q- TRAC. 3" ADD A LEAFS, 31" MUD T/A'S (PEP BOYS CLONES).
" Go farther, it only breaks on the street" http://home.earthlink.net/~zzjoecool/index.html

[This message has been edited by RudyC (edited December 17, 2000).]

[This message has been edited by RudyC (edited December 17, 2000).]

[RudyC]

OK duh. Sorry too many Margaritas last night. The solenoid you are talking about. Is it on the carb. Did this wire fry? This i think is used as a anti run on solenoid, yea i know theres a real name for it but see the margarita part of this post.
this i think pushes the idle up when it is on and shuts the throttle when off so it does not run on after you turn off the key. such as when motor is hot and you used cheep gas. this thing was bad on my dodge and it drove me nuts. i thought it was there incase your car had a/c so i never looked at it. same thing instead of idling it would die..

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1979 WAGONEER, 360,
TEAM RUSH TFI CONVERSION (EL CHEAPO VERSION), TH400, Q- TRAC. 3" ADD A LEAFS, 31" MUD T/A'S (PEP BOYS CLONES).
" Go farther, it only breaks on the street"
http://home.earthlink.net/~zzjoecool/index.html

[jezmond]

thanks reddog for the info i printed all the info out so i have it for later use. thanks jason

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83 WAGONEER LTD -(EUGENE THE JEEP) -360/2BBL -DANA44-F/AMC2O-R -727/3:31 GEARS -4" SKYJACKER LIFT -31X10.50X15 -"MAN THIS JEEP THING IS ADDICTIVE!"

[rattletrap]

Guys, I am an absolute moron. I didn't get a chance to read your posts until this morning, but yesterday I figured out my problem. I new it could not be the new coil because I tried starting it w/the old coil at first to see how things ran. It would only turn over if I had my foot on the gas pretty good. When I fried the wires under the hood it was because I had removed the can coil from its mounted position and layed it on it's side. One of the wires grounded on the a/c compressor and burned the positive wire that runs to the Duraspark box (by the way, found the box. Thanks). It burned only to the point to where it was spliced and did not burn any of the other wires. This was a great relief.

When I was reading about that can coil on in the instruction I downloaded, it mentioned that the can coil should always be upright. I guess this may have had to do w/my baked wires. Anyway, yesterday when I woke up I new it had to be the wiring order. I knew I had the firing order right, but I started the #8 wire one point off. I used the top clip on the adaptor as a guide to put the wires back in order, instead of using the bottom clip on the distributor as my guide. So I changed all of the plugs and she started right up. No time to post yesterday, as once she started I was wearing in her new engine and cleaning everything up under the hood.

TFI upgrade completed. Thanks alot guys, this was a team effort. Now its time to take her on Tuesday for a custom fitted Flowmaster exhaust system from the local muffler shop. Then redo brakes, repack the bearings, replace flex track on window, etc, etc,..... Does it ever stop. Uh, no. I guess that's what owning your own wag is all about.

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87 Grand Wagoneer/Waggy
360/727
dana 44 frnt/rear
600 cfm edelbrock carb
edelbrock performer intake
and one new baby girl/Madison Elise, born 9-28-00

[Slippery]

rattletrap: Glad to hear you got it together and goin'! It's always the little brain-fart things that trip you up. Glad to be of assistance! http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/smile.gif

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Jason K.
"No FSJ yet, but wait..."

[EEVW]

Wow, the Jeep gods finally gave me a break. Did the TFI conversion and everything done in 1.5 hours ( cap.rotor, wires coil, bracket). Even the wiring of the coil was simple...used the same clips from the plastic horeshoe clip. Also the round can bracket was used for the TFI...just took it off and banged it kind of square, and mounted back in same place.

Hope I see some performance improvement...my mileage stinks.

EEVW