do i need any emissions parts at all?

[Dude23455]

hey guys

still trying to figure all of this out.
Which of the emmissions stuff, if any, do i need to keep on there? and by need, i mean that it will help the jeep run better.

so tell me what i can do without and i will rip it out.

Cullen

[Panoscopic]

Depends on the year, but the thing you need to know is that it all works as a system. Take one part out, and it effects everything else. The one thing you can get rid of without ruining perfromance is the air pump and its associated plumbing.

[Langdon]

Dude, you should make a signature for yourself that tells us what you're driving. Follow the 'my profile' link at the top of the page to do that...

No, you don't need any emissions. If you ditch the EGR you will have to richen the mixture by installing larger jets in the carb (assuming you have a 2150 carb).

Some say that ditching the AIR system will kill the catalytic converter, I'm not certain of that however.

Hope it helps, :cool:

[gwinn]

Ditching much of the emmissions crap will end up fouling up your cat, but if your not in a location that requires smog stuff, ditch that too! You can either hollow it out or replace it with a piece of straight pipe. Removing any factory smog equipment is a Federal offense, but I heard that removing the tag from a mattress is too ;) !

[Millerluck]

I would keep the EGR and run it off straight ported vacuum from the carb.

They help lower temps in the cylinders by adding a small amount of exhaust gasses to the intake.

Also keep the charcoal canister hooked up. It doesn't rob power but will trap gasoline fumes.

Run the vacuum advance for the timing off straight ported vaccum from the carb too, and skip all the CTO crap.

Later

Larry Miller

[PhilSine]

Removing all other emmissions stuff will not foul your cat. Catalytic converters have been around since well before most of the other emissions crap on your engine. I know this personally since the entirety of my emiissions set up is as follows...

Catalytic converter.......1 each
Anything else...............0!

And the cat too will eventually go by the wayside when a new exhaust and headers appear on my exhaust.

Just keep within the laws of your state, that's all.

[Jerk]

Originally posted by Millerluck:
I would keep the EGR and run it off straight ported vacuum from the carb.

They help lower temps in the cylinders by adding a small amount of exhaust gasses to the intake.

Exhaust gasses are COOLER than outside air? really? news to me. Actually, as it has been explained to me, the egr will allow things to run hotter and thereby more fully burn the fresh air/fuel mixture to ease up on the unburned fuel blowing out of your tail pipe. this is the primary cause of so many of you 2 barrel emission guys complaining of spark knock. - the incoming air/fuel mixture is already too hot thanks to the lean carburation set up at the factory, and helps lead to preignition- "spark knock". By running a hot mixture (lean) the pistons/valves/cylenders and combustion chambers are at a highr temp, this coupled with the high advance curve of the amc distributors adds to this as well...like 42 degrees total advance! racers use this when they are running high octane race gas, your typical non smogged v8 should run around 34 degrees total advance on 85 octane and 8.23:1 compression (which is what ever amc v8 came with since about 1972). if you run a modified engine (bigger carb performance intake, better pistons ) and want more power/ less mileage/ more polution, you go with a richer, cooler mixture, egr is not welcome on street built performance engines. Unfortunatley, unless your rig is exempt from smog laws for any reason, you should run with as close to lean and restricted conditions as you can without hurting the engine. this means checking and replacing all of the equipment as neccassary, except the air pump, I think that can go. I've read were you can run just as clean without it if your engine is in a good state of tune. Its harder to do, but hey, life is a comprimise.

[ June 22, 2002, 12:41 PM: Message edited by: Matt W ]

[Millerluck]

Matt W

I did not say exhaust gases are cooler then out side air.

Lean mixtures cut down on CO and HC emissions.
But a lean fuel mixture raises NOx levels.

Recirculating exhaust gases through the intake stream dilutes the fresh fuel mixtures with little effect on the air/fuel ratio, cooling combustion temperatures.

Larry Miller

[Crazy_Jeepman]

I like this explanation of the EGR valve. :D

EGR Valve how it works (http://www.misterfixit.com/egrvalve.htm)

[shadowfax101]

I live in Alabama and I have no emissions stuff at all. Alabama does not have smog testing nor do they have visual inspections.

Pull it off if you want, but hang onto it just in case one day Alabama does start this stuff.

[Scottf]

Anybody who is pulling off emissions stuff, I need some peices. Living where I do I can't get away with out it. Where can I get the hose from the air pump to the right side air injectors? I priced that hose today and it was over $40 at Pep Boys and the Napa guy didn't seem to know how to look up the part. First time Napa was behind Pep Boys, the guy must have been new or a part timer. Anyway, if anybody wants to get rid of thier hoses drop me a line at scottfout@hotmail.com. Even a cheap source for the parts would be helpful. There are no self serve junk yards around here.

[TPIGUY]

Originally posted by Crazy_Jeepman:
I like this explanation of the EGR valve. :D

Crazy,

Thanks for posting that but I would like to add some more. The reason Jeep GWs like to ping when the EGR isn't working correctly is that the timing curves are setup as if the EGR is always on when the engine is warmed up and the throttles are open. When EGR is on, it not only prevents peak combustion temps, it slows down combustion, so you need to advance the timing to compensate for the slower combustion speed. And since Jeep GW EGR valves are always on at part throttle with a warm engine, they likewise have fairly advanced timing under these conditions. Now, when you remove your EGR valve or it stops working for some other reason, the same advanced timing, combined with the higher combustion temps causes the pinging. So, unless you recurve your distributor advance, its best not to remove the EGR valve. However, EGR always hurts power just a tad when its on. The engine can't get as much oxygen so it produces less power. At full throttle, you have no ported advance, so the EGR valve shuts off then and doesn't hurt WOT power. For you guys hooking the EGR directly to ported vacuum without the CTO, you are hurting cold engine power and drivability, but that's all. I have seen GM add up to 6 degrees of timing via the ECM when the EGR valve kicks in. They also remove about 10% of the fuel also.

TPIGUY
www.customefis.com (http://www.customefis.com)

[Dude23455]

so...

since i got the intake with no egr, now i need recurve the distrubutor?? man, this just keeps getting more and more compicated....

scott- the wag didnt have an airpump when i bought it, so cant help you.

shadow- we'll hafta hook up sometime and hit the trails.

Cullen

[TPIGUY]

Originally posted by Dude23455:
so...

since i got the intake with no egr, now i need recurve the distrubutor?? man, this just keeps getting more and more compicated....
CullenNo, just set your timing about 4-6 degrees instead of 10-12 as the manual says. If you don't get any pinging, set it higher a little at a time until you do get pinging and then back off about 2 degrees. Of course, the type gas you use has a big impact on the pinging.

TPIGUY
www.customefis.com (http://www.customefis.com)

[sailingjeep]

Whoa, my smog pump just seized so I want to get rid of all the other stuff as well. I'm just learning to work on my Jeep so anything I can get out of my way helps. If I rip it all out I need to make the mixture richer and bring the timing back some? Is that it?