Walk me through replacing the head Gasket

[BIGYELLOW78J10]

Well, I have decided out of mutual respect for the wag, and my wallet, that I will not buy a used engine, but will instead, rebuild the current white smoking one. As it always runs hot since I hooked the temp gauge back up, dspo, I am pretty sure it is head related, hopefully just the gasket.

I am wondering if someone could walk me through, step by step with what has to happen to replace the head gasket, and what things ought to be replaced as the heads go back in. I want to do it well, but I also need to do it cheap. I am also trying to decide if I want to do it in the wag or on a stand.

Thanks so much,

Daniel

[Elliott]

Buy a manual.
Pull the exhaust manifolds.
Pull the intake manifold.
Remove the rockers & pushrods.
Pull the head & replace the gasket.
Replace the head, torque to specs in the manual you bought... paying attention to the torque pattern to follow. This requires a torque wrench capable of 150 ftlbs.
Reinstall the pushrods and rockers.
Replace the valley pan gasket after sealing correct areas indicated in the manual you bought.
Replace the manifold and gaskets, torque to specs.
Replace exhaust manifolds, wires, fuel and water lines.
Start motor and adjust rocker arms, replace valve covers and finish the six pac.

[4DWUDS]

Are we talkin one six pack per hour or day. My friends would rather pay me cash to fix their cars, they know its way to costley when I tell em "Just buy the beer".

[talntar]

Start motor and adjust rocker arms, forget about this as they are non adj.

[Hump]

Don't forget to drain your coolant before taking the intake off. Also unless you've got a really light intake manifold, you probably want to take the carb off too...and of course all the other crap that is connected or routed in that area.

[BIGYELLOW78J10]

Should I take the heads to a machine shop when I pull them, or should I inspect them myself for cracks etc?

Thanks Elliot, and everyone.

Daniel

By the way, I have the Chilton's Manual and The Haynes one, I just have more faith in the board, and a third opinion is always good.

[4DWUDS]

I take mine to a cylinder head exchange, $150. no muss, no fuss and cheaper than getting your old heads done a machine shop.Unless you are really stuck on keeping your original heads then thats the way to go, Usually no suprises, just paint the heads before you install them, make um pretty.

[cywagoneer]

I'm in the process of doing this myself. Bought a set of rebuilt heads. If the heads have been resurfaced (how would I know for sure?) do I need different length pushrods? What's the easiest way to measure for pushrod length?

[letank]

cylinder head exchange is a good idea to avoid disappointements, as a leak means overheating... and distortion.....

the big issue is the exhaust manifold studs that break, so use plenty of PB blaster over a few days and buy the best headgasket compound sealant and seal..... in fact some of our FSJ do not have gasket.....

Michel
74 wag

[billyrb]

Daniel, take em' to a shop or exchange them out. You can't see the cracks or warping by eye. They have to Mic & Magnaflux it in order to see the microscopic cracks & warps. It'll be the best $150 you can spend right now. Oh, and FYI, that factory intake is about 50-70 lbs, on a good day. Be prepared to hurt your back if you do it without help. Also, make sure that you don't get heads that have been shaved down, go for stock ones. If they have been shaved, and you install them, your intake will no longer match up as the angle will be different. Also, if you can swing another $300, you would be well-advised to get an Edelbrock Performer Intake & 1400/1406 carb at this point. You will already have it apart, might as well do it all at once. You can find used ones for a little cheaper (intake #3731 for EGR, can't remember the one w/o EGR).

[kyjman]

ALSO.....when you tourqe the head down, do it two times. Go over the bolts twice in the right sequence. I did a head once and forgot to tourqe twice and had to do it again in two days. Just a heads up. no pun intended.

[Zac]

I am just a scrowny teenager and I could lift the intake with the carb on it. Mayby mine is diffrent than others?

[BIGYELLOW78J10]

Thanks!!!!

Hey Ryan, do you know of a head exchange up here in the ATL?

Or does NAPA do it?

Trying to think this all out so I can be ready for warm weather. I got another set of 33's the other day, so I may go ahead and start trimming the wag fenders to fit them. Hopefully, I'll get 33's in with massive trimming, and then 35's with a lift.

If I can the get the engine going, I think I will weld the rear end and beat the crap out it on the trails.

But first things first. Drivetrain before body.

Thanks all

Daniel

[Elliott]

Originally posted by BIGYELLOW78J10:
I am also trying to decide if I want to do it in the wag or on a stand.
It's all easy enough to do in the Jeep. However, if you leave the hood on it's quite a stretch over the radiator with arms extended when you go to set that iron manifold square on your sealed valley. Having mucked up my gasket sealent before, I think removing the hood so you could get directly over the engine could save you some pain and possibly having to pull the manifold to reseal it if you find it leaks on startup.
The rubber valley seals like to walk around at the front and rear of the block and it's nice to see if they're set right before you torque, and then watch the squeeze out.
I used to be a solid lifter guy, but as somebody pointed out.... just torque your rocker arms prior to start up. When you have 150 - 200 miles on it I'd pull the rockers and retorque the head again for longevity.

[BIGYELLOW78J10]

Sounds good!

Thanks,

Daniel

I think I will definitely pull the hood, I would have to to pull the engine, but I think I will go for it in the truck to start.