NP229 problems

[iroc212]

I have a buddy with an 83 Wagoneer, 360 AT been sitting a while. We just got it up and running, tried to put it into gear all we got was a grinding noise. I messed with it and found the vacuum lines to the resivoir on the firewall were busted. I replaced them and tried again, grind. We got it rolling I put it into Low range took off fine.It feels like it won't go into hi range. I tried it stopped, and rolling to get it into hi, feels like it engages but just makes a grinding noise. It will start to move a little while its making noise, but not completely. If anybody can give me a hand; I would really appreciate it!

[DLyons]

Check the vacuum motor that engages the 2or 4 wheel drive. It is mounted on the transfer case. Mine was stuck last summer and made it grind like the tranny was slipping. I removed the vacuum motor and sprayed some oil in the vac ports while working the linkage back and forth. This loosened it up and everything shifted like new.
Just my thoughts!

------------------
DaveLyons
84 Grand Wagoneer
74 Grill & Round Headlights
360-727-229-3.31s
2" Suspension Lift
2 1/2" Body Lift(HomeMade)
Krylon Burgundy
Product of "Redneck Engineering"

[iroc212]

thanks I'll try it!

[JEEPRZ]

Sounds to me like you may have other problems. First, I dont think the front vacuum disconnect is engaging. This could be caused from eiher vacuum leaks, or a faulty solenoid (ether the one on the t-case,or the one on the axle). I also sounds like the viscus coupling in the t-case may be bad (very common and expensive) causing the grinding noise. I get this impression because you say it'tries' to move.
I made some changes to my 229. When I got my GW, the t-case was in rough shape. Many of the bearings were bad due to lack of oil, and the viscous coupling was broken, with pices in the bottom of the case. After pricing one out at nearly $500, I decided to remove most of the viscous coupling, weld the center diff in the t-case, essentially eliminating the full-time4wd feature. If you still want full time 4wd, you can remove the outer case and clutch packs from the VC, and keep the cnter diff 'open'. Another thing I did was remove the jickity steel vacuum harness for the t-case and axle. I then ran a straight vac line to the front diff to keep it engaged at all times. I then ran 2 hoses from the vac switch to the t-case solenoid, to simplify the whole set-up. If you wanted to get fancy, you could add a 2nd inside vacuum switch for the front axle, and have 2wd low as an option.

Sorry for the long post...felt like rambling I suppose


------------------
Dave
83 GW
360/727/229
tow rig for 85 CJ
3"lift, 31s, 3.31s, edlebrock intake (TBI in the works), cam, custom DIY exh, rebuilt trans shift kit and factory aux cooler,modified 229 (no viscous coupling, *improved* vacuum system), lotsa squeaks, leaks, and rattls

[irbob]

Another thing you may want to do is drain the fluid and check for metal bits at the bottom of your case. It's always good to check all the fluids anyway. It takes ATF. Stick your finger in the drain hole to see if you can scoop out any big ones.

When my VC went south the retaining ring housing broke off and got up in the chain and made some really bad noises, one of which was the fealing of having the rear axle ripped out at 65 mph.

------------------
My FSJeep Site (http://fsjeep.tripod.com/fsjeep/) <----Click one of these----> IFSJA Sticker (http://fsjeep.homestead.com/stickerpage.html)
"Mystery Machine", 360, 999 Auto, NP229, F/Dana 44F, R/AMC 8 7/8", 31X10.5 Pathfinder's, Rancho 9000's, 2" blocks, Custom Turbo II 2.5" single exaust, 3" Performance Products Bodylift. "Have you been off road lately?"

[iroc212]

Thanks again, I'll try to drain the fluid first, and upgrade/repair the vacuum lines. I appreciate the info!!!!!!