Bypass tailgate key switch

[Petey69]

Does anyone know how to bypass the tailgate key switch on an 86 GW. I have narrowed the trouble with my tailgate to this! Thanks.
Also need a diagram of how to rewire the electric mirror on the drivers side. Wind blew off the panel and pulled the wires out. Thanks again.

[PhilSine]

Are you sure it's the key switch and not the tailgate safety switch?

[Petey69]

Tailgate safety switch is ok...power past it whether jumpered or not!

[PhilSine]

What result do you expect out of bypassing the tailgate switch? What is not functioning properly? Are you trying to figure out a way to replace the tailgate switch with an aftermarket one?

I can tell you how to do a lot but I'd rather help you restore the original operation of the switch if that is your ultimate goal.

[Petey69]

Philsine,
I want to bypass the lock switch as it is damaged. Key slot damaged and would just like to run the window from the front switch. I do have power and operation from the switch. I have a good motor (power direct from battery to motor wires raises and by switching polarity lowers window. Safety switch is ok too. Rather than go through the hassle of having to visit the locksmith after replacing the switch I would just as soon do away with it!
Thanks!

[Yort]

Petey69
I'm confused (whats new) by your motive. Does your dash switch work? If it doesn't I don't think bypassing the rear switch will change anything. On my truck the switches are separate circits except for the safety switch. Do you just want to disable the rear switch so nobody can run the window up and down with, say, a screwdriver?

[jasonthomasfrance]

Shouldn't need to bypass the key switch, as it's a different circuit then the switch on the dash. Is the dash switch not working either?

[PhilSine]

Thanks Jason, that's the direction I was going in. There is no need to bypas the tailgate switch unless the keylock is broken in such a way that it turns without the key (i.e. using a screwdriver). You can get new mechanism from the junkyard and replace the slides in the lock cylinder to match your current key.

I would strongly advise that you do your best to maintain use of the rear tailgate switch due to the fact that if the front one should break or malfunction (as has happened to me) then you still have a way to get the tailgate down.

If the lock doesn't turn at all, then you can remove that assembly from the tailgate without opening up the inside or the tailgate. You just need a philips head screwdriver and the special security type torx bit to take it all apart. You can then lube it up with some white lithium grease and it should then work fine.

But, if you realllly want to disable the rear switch, all you have to do is cut and securely tape or heatshrink the ends of (heatshirnk preferred) the purple w/red trace wire AT THE MOTOR. It must be done at the motor or else you may disable the entire circut, even from the front switch. This will entail disecting the tailgate as far as you need to in order to get a clear shot at those wires. This wire must be prevented from grounding at all costs. IT IS HOT AT ALL TIMES. Do not cut it too close to the motor as you may (will probably) change your mind someday and have to splice it back together.

I am basing this advice primarily on my electrical diagram found in the back of my Haynes manual and secondarily on my own experience and ability to read schematics. If it doesn't work out, please don't get mad at me. It appears in the diagram that the red/pur wire for the rear switch is completely separate from the dash one (my personal experience also leads me to believe this) but I would rather fix the switch and not take a chance otherwise.

Good Luck and let us know how it all turns out.

[Bob Barry]

Remember, the late-'78 and up circuits are completely different than the earlier ones; a bad tailgate switch will stop everything in its tracks (as will a bad front switch). The circuit on the newer switch has to pass through both switches to be completed.

Still, there's no way to bypass the switch without removing the old one, at which point you may as well replace it with a new switch. The little plastic pivot points on the old paddles break off, causing the continuity that the switch provides while at rest to go bad.

If you really wanted to cut and hack, though, the tan wire coming from the frame would go to the tan wire going to the motor, and the brown wire would go directly to the brown wire (the wire that goes through the safety switch, I believe). If you're not using your defroster, I would also disconnect the red bullet-connector in the driver's-side rear framerail, as that provides constant (+) feed to the tailgate switch, and with those butchered wires floating around in there, you might short it out.

Sorry, though; don't have anything on the power mirror setup.

[Petey69]

Gents, Thanks for the data. I will take the switch off the back and proceed. Front switch is ok until the power hits that back switch. Even good through the lousy safety switch. I will replace the back lock switch as now you could turn it with your fingers but it is defective holding up the whole shooting match! Will play hit and miss with the mirror wiring and let you all know.Thanks again!