PDA

View Full Version : Somethings Not right.


vintagetrks
01-23-2010, 11:46 AM
Drove the jeep to my mother in laws today. It's about a ten mile drive. My waggy was acting a little strange. It was sort of surging and when I was braking to make the turn to go to her house it acted like it wanted to die. On the way home same situation. It almost acted like it was missing on a cylinder. I can't figure out weather it's ignition or carbeuration. It's a 76 waggy 360 TH400 Qtrac with the prestolite dizzy (soon to have a HEI). Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You :D

joe
01-23-2010, 12:06 PM
After the eng warms up is the choke plate opening all the way back open again or staying partially closed?

KensAMC
01-23-2010, 12:22 PM
I'll say choke is likely too
All kinds of trouble with mine

vintagetrks
01-23-2010, 01:26 PM
I have'nt inspected it but that does sound like a high likelyhood I have been noticing alot of black around my exhaust tip and have suspected my choke not being quiet right. Any suggestions on how to fix it?

jaw knee
01-23-2010, 01:34 PM
along with the choke, maybe its a leaking /broken disconnected vacuum line? seems these are known for failure and causing such issues.

vintagetrks
01-23-2010, 01:52 PM
along with the choke, maybe its a leaking /broken disconnected vacuum line? seems these are known for failure and causing such issues.

I'm in the process of replacing all of the vacum line on the rig. But with all the snow we've been getting the last couple days I've been less than motivated to go out and wrench on my poor Jeeps. I also thought of the EGR vave but I'm not exactly sure what it is and what it actually does.
The choke is definetly a concern as I have removed the heat riser so I know it takes quite a while for the carb/choke to get to a temp where it would think of opening. Not to mention my 160 degree thermostat.

joe
01-23-2010, 02:07 PM
I have'nt inspected it but that does sound like a high likelyhood I have been noticing alot of black around my exhaust tip and have suspected my choke not being quiet right. Any suggestions on how to fix it?
Adjust it.

vintagetrks
01-23-2010, 02:28 PM
Adjust it.

Any tips on how to adjust it? I'm not real familiar with this carb. Is it a very sensitive adjustment?

Skeeter74
01-23-2010, 11:21 PM
First, I would check the choke pull-off. Just start your rig and see if the pull-off, on the rear pass side of the carb (at least if it is a 2150), is pulling back on the kick down. This is visible if you take the air cleaner off, as the pull-off will crack the choke plate open an 1/8" or so. If it is, then you should have 3 screws on the black pot on the pass side of the carb. Loosen these with the engine off and set the choke by blipping the throttle like on starting. Now, turn the black pot untill the choke plate just closes, again with the engine off. Now, if all this is good, put a meter on the tab on the side of the black pot with the engine running, assuming you have en electric choke. You should have 12V. If you don't, you need the trace this wire down to where you are losing voltage. It should run down to the oil pressure sending unit as this works to keep your choke from opening before you start the rig.

vintagetrks
01-23-2010, 11:28 PM
First, I would check the choke pull-off. Just start your rig and see if the pull-off, on the rear pass side of the carb (at least if it is a 2150), is pulling back on the kick down. This is visible if you take the air cleaner off, as the pull-off will crack the choke plate open an 1/8" or so. If it is, then you should have 3 screws on the black pot on the pass side of the carb. Loosen these with the engine off and set the choke by blipping the throttle like on starting. Now, turn the black pot untill the choke plate just closes, again with the engine off. Now, if all this is good, put a meter on the tab on the side of the black pot with the engine running, assuming you have en electric choke. You should have 12V. If you don't, you need the trace this wire down to where you are losing voltage. It should run down to the oil pressure sending unit as this works to keep your choke from opening before you start the rig.

I'm running a mechanical oil pressure guage so the wire to my oil pressure sending unit is disconnected. Would this cause the choke to malfunction?

Skeeter74
01-24-2010, 12:11 AM
Yes, there should be 2 wires, IIRC, going to the oil pressure sending unit and the coil for the electric choke does not get power untill oil pressure is sensed. With this discoed, your choke is likely to never open.

vintagetrks
01-24-2010, 01:15 AM
Yes, there should be 2 wires, IIRC, going to the oil pressure sending unit and the coil for the electric choke does not get power untill oil pressure is sensed. With this discoed, your choke is likely to never open.

I'll bet thats my problem then. So do I just ground my oil pressure sending unit wire to fool it into thinking I have oil pressure?

Skeeter74
01-24-2010, 01:22 AM
I don't think so. Someone else will correct me I am sure, but I think the sending unit acts like a switch or relay and lets voltage pass or not. One of those wires should be hot when the key is on. I would hazard a guess and say that you could jumper the 2 together and get power to the choke coil. Please check that one of the wires does go to the choke coil before trying this though. I have never checked but I believe that the choke coil gets power all the time that the engine is running and you may be able to run a switched hot wire directly to it.

vintagetrks
01-24-2010, 01:35 AM
I don't think so. Someone else will correct me I am sure, but I think the sending unit acts like a switch or relay and lets voltage pass or not. One of those wires should be hot when the key is on. I would hazard a guess and say that you could jumper the 2 together and get power to the choke coil. Please check that one of the wires does go to the choke coil before trying this though. I have never checked but I believe that the choke coil gets power all the time that the engine is running and you may be able to run a switched hot wire directly to it.

I'll have to see which one of the wire is getting power and try to figure out how to get them working again. Thank you for the help. :)

NVJEEPER
01-24-2010, 08:47 AM
That is what happened to mine, no power from sending unit. Have not tried any thing else yet. I was going to put the choke on the factory fog light switch...no power there either:rolleyes: So mine is just set real lean, gotta pump it alot:thumbsup: Use a hacksaw to put a slot in them three choke screws for a screw driver unless they had slots in them that year.

vintagetrks
01-24-2010, 01:42 PM
So I popped the hood and removed the air cleaner. I have no electric choke. It looks to me as if my 2bbl's choke is controlled by vacum. So I checked the vacum lines and their all good. The choke seems to move a little when rpms are increased but very little movement. I did'nt try adjusting the choke because at this point I'm stumped. I had no idea the choke was vacum operated and all the advice I've been getting (it is greatly appreciated) has been for an electrically controlled choke. It definitely looks like my carb is running pretty rich and I'm just wondering if it's choke related or ignition related? :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

joe
01-24-2010, 02:19 PM
Go back to the site main/home page and look in the Tech Library prolly under fuel/carb section look for an article
"How to Rebuild Your Motorcraft 2150/2100 Carburetor" by Michael Baxter Scroll down about 1/2 way and there's a section on how to set up the choke.

nepatternmaker
01-24-2010, 02:57 PM
I've never seen a vacuum op choke. Do you have a 2 barrel carb or a 4? I know that my 86 wag has an electric choke, can't vouch for 76. Ford, back in those days, used a bi-metal thermastatic spring controlled choke. No vac or electric, it may have a metal tube running down to the exhaust manifold from the metal portion of the choke thermostat housing. That is to get heat up the the thermal spring quicker and it could be mistaken for a vacuum line. That type is still adjusted the same way as Skeeter outlined, just no electric to deal with. The bi-metal springs get 'unsprung' tho and quit moving the choke plate all the way. This is what it sounds like to me.

Just my .02 and limited experience.
dave

vintagetrks
01-24-2010, 03:01 PM
I've never seen a vacuum op choke. Do you have a 2 barrel carb or a 4? I know that my 86 wag has an electric choke, can't vouch for 76. Ford, back in those days, used a bi-metal thermastatic spring controlled choke. No vac or electric, it may have a metal tube running down to the exhaust manifold from the metal portion of the choke thermostat housing. That is to get heat up the the thermal spring quicker and it could be mistaken for a vacuum line. That type is still adjusted the same way as Skeeter outlined, just no electric to deal with. The bi-metal springs get 'unsprung' tho and quit moving the choke plate all the way. This is what it sounds like to me.

Just my .02 and limited experience.
dave

There is a tube that goes down into the intake manifold. I sounds very similar to what your describing. So is this bimetal spring located in the choke housing in the black choke plate?

nepatternmaker
01-24-2010, 03:22 PM
Apologies, going from memory, some do go to something on the intake. Yes, if memory is correct, the thermostatic spring is in the round , black choke housing on the pass. side of the carb. Chevies had a choke that was operated by linkage from a spring inside of a quarter sized bump mounted on the intake. But that used linkage, not a tube, and I don't know if AMC ever used that system.

If you can post a pic of what you have, we could quickly ID it for you.

dave

Skeeter74
01-24-2010, 10:15 PM
There is a tube that goes down into the intake manifold. I sounds very similar to what your describing. So is this bimetal spring located in the choke housing in the black choke plate?

Yes, even the 80 wag I have has that tube running to the choke and is a "heat riser" for lack of a better term. It still sounds like the choke is not opening all the way. I would guess that the coil has gone bad, or at least needs adjusted. You can probably get a replacement at any parts store.

letank
01-24-2010, 10:44 PM
Seen like you have the 2100, non electrical choke like I have. So you can shove a screwdriver down the air horn to keep the choke plate opened. You can also fancy a cage to keep the choke plate opened. This is what I run when it is colder than 60 degrees as the choke plate has a tendency to close. It is a bit tempermental for the first 3 minutes.