vacuum lines

[Dude23455]

Hey all

trying to hook up my vacuum lines back up now with the new carb and intake (w/o egr). my jeep manual shows how the stock lines went, withuot the egr the new lines are going to run different i would imagine.

just some pics of what im talking about.
http://www.ownijbgc.net/cullen/jeep/vac1.jpg
http://www.ownijbgc.net/cullen/jeep/vac2.jpg

i know it will be hard to explain how to route all the vacuum lines, but any help will be appreciated.

thanks again
Cullen

[porchpiggy]

All those lines sure make a mess, don't they? I did a manifold and carb on my 88GW, and since the air pump was already disconnected, i went ahead and did a desmog. Here in KS we don't have to do emissions testing, so I reduced it to the simplest form. I even got rid of CTO's. I run vac to the manifold for power brakes, ported vac to the carb for advance, pcv in the front of the carb, and a vac connection towards the back for the vacuum ball, for heater controls and such. Thats it. I put bolts in the exhaust manifold after I removed the air injection tubes. If you do a search for vacuum lines you will find a lot of info on the subject. It sure cleaned up my engine compartment. :cool:

[Bob Barry]

It's really not hard at all. You just have to supply the right kind of vacuum to the systems that need it, and add a thermal control or two to optimize those vacuum feeds.

For instance, here are the basics that any truck will need:

* Manifold Vacuum feed to vacuum resevoir ball on the firewall to feed the heat/defrost/transfer-case shifter controls.

* Ported vacuum feed to distributor vacuum advance.

If you are retaining the following emissions equipment, you will need the following hookups:

* Manifold Vacuum to the charcoal canister

* Manifold vacuum to the AIR diverter valve

* Manifold vacuum to flapper on thermostatically-controlled air-cleaner housing

* Ported vacuum to EGR (which you are deleting, so forget about it)

If you want to optimize the controls, you can add the following thermal switches:

* A 3-port 160ºF CTO to run the distributor advance off manifold rather than ported vacuum when the engine coolant temp is below 160ºF. This assists the engine in warming up by bumping up the idle and helpint it resist stalling.

* A 3-port 220ºF CTO to run the distributor advance off manifold rather than ported vacuum when the engine coolant is above 220ºF. This assists the engine in cooling off by bumping up the idle-speed, and thus the fan speed and the flow of coolant through the water-pump.

* A 115ºF (or so) CTO to cut off vacuum to the flapper in the thermostatically-controlled air-cleaner housing once the engine coolant temp is above 115ºF.

* An air-temp sensor in the air-cleaner housing to cut off vacuum to the flapper in the thermostatically-controlled air-cleaner housing once the temperature of the incoming air is above a certain temperature (I think it's about 98ºF or so; that's just a guess).

So start with the basic systems you need, and add the other systems as you see fit.

Good luck!

[Duckman]

I have seen a vacuum line diagram here for an earlire model FSJ. I really need help with the vacuum diagram on an 89 G-WAG. If someone could post one that would help greatly. Thanks.

[mccullough_89_GW]

I have a 87/88/89/90/91.........
they are all different.... 377k zip of vaccuum diagrams (http://showcase.netins.net/web/grandwagoneer/vacuumdiagrams.zip)

i used the 90,,because it didn't use the non linear valve
good luck....

[ June 19, 2002, 10:49 PM: Message edited by: mccullough_89_GW ]

[Dude23455]

Originally posted by Duckman:
I have seen a vacuum line diagram here for an earlire model FSJ. I really need help with the vacuum diagram on an 89 G-WAG. If someone could post one that would help greatly. Thanks.i have a chrysler service manual for my 89 wag. It has the vacuum line diagram in it. and if your wag is stock it would work for you. I can take a highres pic and post it for you.

[Dude23455]

bob

if you could perhaps take a pic of a manifold and draw in mspaint what i need to put where i would be eternally greatful.

my jeep didnt have the aircleaner flapper thing when i bought it, so you can x that as well

thanks
Cullen

[Bob Barry]

OK, but first you have to choose from the menu in my post above the particular items you still want to run off of vacuum. Then I can point to the particular ports you circled and numbered in your linked pics so that you can have a fully-functional engine control system.

[Dude23455]

hey bob

a few more questions for you. do any of the emmisions equipment help the jep to run better? here in alabama we have no emissions inspection or testing at all. So if something isnt going to help me, i might as well get rid of it.

i already have take off the egr, and the intake flapper.
What exactly is the air diverter valve, and what does the charcoal canister do?

one last thing, the edelbrock carb i installed has a port for the vacuum adv line from the distributor, i should just use that right?

thanks again
Cullen

[Dude23455]

bump

[Duckman]

I just went to get my inspection today, even though we do not have a smog check here in missouri they wanted to charge me to put another air pump and all associated plumbing back in before giving me the go ahead on my inspection? :mad: Ok, twelve dollars later I move on to the next inspection station.

[Bob Barry]

OK, I've been looking over your manifold shots. Here is what you want to do:

* Hook your distributor vacuum line up to the port you didn't circle; the small one on the lower right-front of your carb (in the picture vac1.jpg). That appears to be a ported vacuum source (check your carb literature for that information). The red and yellow CTO's and their hoses that you circled as #3, plus the Non-Linear Relay Valve you circled as #1, can all be removed. In fact, if you are not using them, and need to get through emissions with as little hassle as possible, replace those CTO's with some pipe-plugs so that it doesn't look like you've just disconnected stuff indiscriminately.

* The CTO circled as #4 is your dual-CTO, used for controlling the vacuum to the air-cleaner housing flapper and your EGR. Since your EGR is gone, and you don't seem to be using your pre-heater hose, you can remove it and plug that hole, or just switch to a solid water-inlet fitting for that heater hose.

* The hose you circled for #5 should supply the vacuum to your heater and transfer-case controls (if applicable). It should supply vacuum to the round plastic canister on the firewall right above the back of the engine. The plastic fitting in the middle on the back of the intake is, of course, the feed for your PCV valve. You can replace that fitting with a metal PCV valve from an early (up to '78) application and eliminate one part of the system. You definitely want that PCV hooked up.

* The port you label #2 is a full manifold vacuum source. If you don't need it to provide vacuum to your charcoal canister, then cap it.

Hope that helps! Any other questions?

[Dude23455]

thank you much sir

im certain that more questions will come.

I umm, kinda forgot to put on the heatshield on the bottom on the intake, before i bolted it down. so thats what i get to do tomorrow </stupidity>

oh well, live and learn

Cullen