Todd's 1974 J10 Muddin Build Log

[holley2346]

Well it's been a couple of months coming, and I am making some progress..... but it's a jeep, so of course there is plenty more I want to do. :)

So far I have done the following;

--Installed
Edelbrock 650 CFM carb
Edelbrock Performer Intake
Mallory HEI Ignition
Heddman Headers
New Plugs
New Plug Wires
New Headlights
New true dual exhaust system, glasspacks only, 4" tips
Roll Bar from BJ's
3 Sets of KC daylighters (only 1 set installed right now)
New Sending Unit
New magnum shocks
Richmond Mini Spool
Rearch springs and add a leaf for ~3 inches

-- Other work
Removed bed and painted frame
Stripped and painted rear axle (front is coming)

-----------------------------------

These pictures are in no particular order. Just some things I took during the past couple of months.

New dick cepek crushers that I drove up to Rusty's Offroad to get since my 6 inch lift didn't fit

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2465/4233167705_7c1bff144b.jpg

Right after the tires were installed.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2522/4233942304_daf6f85b26.jpg

Had to go test out those tires that day!

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2535/4233170707_0df4753ae4.jpg

Maybe I got a little too excited on the first day this truck was taken out. :D

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2660/4233186191_87520cf522.jpg

New Graphics

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2629/4233935576_e12401b68e.jpg

POS 125 dollar paperweight

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2598/4233934104_558d6fb652.jpg

Cheaper than the POS paperweight and a different world of off roading :)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2657/4233937500_133f7fafa9.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4233916088_10da8b3ca1.jpg

ooooooohhhhh man, that would of been bad!

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2694/4233933278_1a3405b8fc.jpg

New paint and shocks! :cool:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2790/4233931528_b2398f28e2.jpg

One set of KC's put on

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4238380258_f46f6e7c14.jpg

Suggestions, Comments, recommendations are welcome! I want feedback :)

[holley2346]

And today I decided to take my girl out for a little drive on this cold saturday.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4238384534_3673162312.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2782/4238385090_36f30987c2.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4238385830_13c0bccb74.jpg

If my emergency brake actually worked I'd have a ton more pictures. It's just hard to get out and take pictures when you can't get the truck to stay still! :eek:

[spankyway]

Pretty nice!:thumbsup:

[jaber]

Lovin' the J. Looks really good with the lift and tires.:thumbsup:

[fsjman1978]

Awesome. Keep the pictures coming.

[Tatsadasayago]

Nice work on the J-Truck!

Stylin in the red mud to boot!

[freeincolorado]

Nice Truck.:thumbsup:

[Casey]

:thumbsup: Sweet!

[holley2346]

Thanks everyone :) I'm enjoying the heck out of this thing, but the time is coming for a motor rebuild soon. :mad: She just drinks so much oil, and I'm hearing some serious chatter when I put the petal down a good ways followed by a cloud of black smoke coming out of the right side of my exhaust. :(

[jeepskater433]

Awesome looking truck man

[Jeebes]

How big are the crushers? thats what i want to put on my J20. i have the mud countrys on my 2000 silverado and love them!!

[ORNJKRUSH]

How do you like the Mallory HEI? The GW I just picked up has I on it and the previous owner told me it was a pain to time. Just curious.

[wickedwagon767]

How do the Crushers clean in mud? Are you satisfied with them?

Great looking J-truck man

[holley2346]

How big are the crushers? thats what i want to put on my J20. i have the mud countrys on my 2000 silverado and love them!!

The tires are 33/12.5 for a 15 inch wheel.

They are amazing tires and do great in the mud, but dig down VERY easily on sand.

[holley2346]

How do you like the Mallory HEI? The GW I just picked up has I on it and the previous owner told me it was a pain to time. Just curious.

I just took the OEM distributor out, took the gear off of the original (the new one doesn't come with one). Space the gear properly and drill the hole in the new one. Tap the pin in, put it facing the original direction and your good to go.

For me, it was like night and day. :)

[holley2346]

I have open access to old mixers/vaporizers to run propane gas that just need to be rebuilt. I'm considering putting a ~50 gallon propane tank in the back and running a propane set up. It would take less than a day and would be almost free for me to do. Propane gas is also a little less $$ than gasoline, and higher octane. :fsj:


What is everyone's opinion on this? I'd likely end up selling my basically brand new carb after doing the conversion. Anyone interested?

[EnigmaticEngineer]

I have open access to old mixers/vaporizers to run propane gas that just need to be rebuilt. I'm considering putting a ~50 gallon propane tank in the back and running a propane set up. It would take less than a day and would be almost free for me to do. Propane gas is also a little less $$ than gasoline, and higher octane. :fsj:


What is everyone's opinion on this? I'd likely end up selling my basically brand new carb after doing the conversion. Anyone interested?

My opinion is Hell yes. Especially if it is a Trail rig. Some carbs (and some are much better than others) don't handle leaning to the side or climbing up and down steep hills while maintaining smooth idle/running charactistics.

I have two friends who run propane systems on their trail rigs (an 82 toyota 22r/dana 44's and a 4.0 Cherokee stock axles) that perform flawlessly...even when the toyota was on its top it kept running until he shut the key off.

Just my 'some newbie to the forum' opinion :)

Nathan.

[Brizio]

Cool!!!:thumbsup:

[holley2346]

Some of you may have read about the problems I was having with my rear end; http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=115558 . (now quoted in the next post)

Basically I just ended up using the old pinion until my new set gets here from BJ's. I welded the pin into the carrier so I wouldn't have to worry about it

Here are the horrid welds, but they should still serve their purpose.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2421/4313009057_e56f645bbc.jpg

[holley2346]

For people who are too lazy to click (like me) here is the problems and solutions I was having;

Well I found that the answer to all three problems was my rear end. This all seems to be caused by the small pin coming out somehow that holds the carrier pin in.

Problem 1: Slight ticking noise that was related to speed.

Resolution1: The carrier pin was sliding up and down in either direction but the ring gear in a little d44 prevented it from sliding completely out. So it just bounced back and forth from one side to the other (you can see in the picture how it beat the crap out of itself on each end).

Problem 2: Gap in the drivetrain somwhere.

Resolution 2: The pin was missing about a half of an inch or so in total length and when slid as far as possible in the carrier in either direction only one side of the pin was actually in one carrier hole at a time.

Problem 3: Wheels locked up and forced ~3 ft. of black marks on my driveway.

Resolution 3: Somehow a piece of metal or the carrier pin was lodged in the rear end and froze everything up.


My pinion gear has 3 very worn teeth now, but the ring gear looks good as new.

Here are pictures of the damage.

Thanks everyone for your help. :)

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/4289434878_c44d053f02.jpg

Old pin is obviously on the right, glad I had a spare! :)
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4289435606_5c810f0b30.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2718/4288694973_73478bf11b.jpg

[j20brett]

Sooo...you shouldnt need to weld it if you put the roll pin back in it. You did put the roll pin back in right?

[jeepjseries]

Sweet J10 you got there.

[holley2346]

Sooo...you shouldnt need to weld it if you put the roll pin back in it. You did put the roll pin back in right?

I didn't have any hardened roll pins.... the weld will take care of it. If I ever need to take the pin out I can grind off the welds.

The last roll pin broke, therefore I'd rather not have that as a weakness anymore. :)

[holley2346]

Well it's been a WHILE since I've updated this..... Hopefully you like the direction that the jeep is going in :).

Added;
8,000 LB winch
140 amp 1 wire alt (for all the lights)
added 4 more kc's
shackle flip in the back
6" lift springs in the front

I just got done with the lift, and still have the shocks, drop pitman arm, extended brake lines, steering stabilizer, 1" lift shackles, and 3" body lift on the way.


Bent Spring
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2368/4510825030_7f255f7d27.jpg

New Spring Vs Old Spring
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2708/4510824344_3cc9f9bc17.jpg

The night of
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2268/4510186911_4051eb32a6.jpg

The day after :):):)
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2414/4510186431_513f7ac027.jpg

And the old look (to compare).... remember I have 4 more inches on the way... supposed to arrive here friday.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2535/4233170707_0df4753ae4.jpg

Tell me what ya'll think :)

[holley2346]

And to add;

I'm pretty sure this is how I broke that spring.... I didn't notice the bent spring until I got home.

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/148/l_9b09c6401fea4dd483820975ab9e79e0.jpg

And when I got home, this is what I was left with. :eek:

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/129/l_00ceeaf54667472eac1c908b09d90335.jpg

[yoslvr442]

Very nice rig!

[JeepsAndGuns]

Somehow I have missed this untill now. What part of bama you in?

[holley2346]

Somehow I have missed this untill now. What part of bama you in?

Close to the Prattville area, above montgomery.

[JeepsAndGuns]

your a good bit away from me, I am about a hour north of birmingham.
Sweet build by the way.

[Dr.E]

Military wrapped spring ends!
http://www.jpmagazine.com/howto/16719/index.html

[fubar]

first off love the way it comin along but
just wonderin how you got the C-clips in there after welding that pin in there:confused:

[holley2346]

first off love the way it comin along but
just wonderin how you got the C-clips in there after welding that pin in there:confused:

I have no C clips in my axle.... :thumbsup:

[holley2346]

Figured I'd post some pics of how 6" lift springs are supposed to be "stiff".... I have no clue what they're talking about. :)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2751/4523181416_2b4522a317.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4522547511_a60f5dc119.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4522547823_49121ae8ef.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4522547511_a60f5dc119.jpg

A lot more flexy :D I can only imagine the flex with the extended shackles coming in Friday :)

:fsj:

[fireman91186]

It looks real good.
Thanks for the updates.

Howe do you like those tires? I think they look real good but just wondering how they function.

[holley2346]

It looks real good.
Thanks for the updates.

Howe do you like those tires? I think they look real good but just wondering how they function.

I love the tires, the only problem is they only offer a couple of sizes.... biggest being 35's.

[holley2346]

Got some more parts in today.... I loved riding without shocks for the flex, but it was scary sometimes. :eek:

Problem solved though.... I also got a new steering stabilizer and it is SO much better...

Rough Country Steering Stabilizer
Pro Comp ES9000 shocks.... they ride SO good!

** The back shocks ARE upside down... the pinion angle was changed with the shackle flip, which did not permit the shocks to be installed right side up.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4001/4524443191_94340e852d.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4524442885_49b49d56f3.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4058/4524442297_6e7111b588.jpg

:fsj::fsj::fsj::fsj::fsj::fsj::fsj::fsj:

[RussellS]

Hey sweet ride man. I was wondering what where the model numbers for the parts you got for your engine? I know i can find some of the stuff at bj's offroad but i dont know what to use for my ignition since im wanting to update it some.

[holley2346]

Hey sweet ride man. I was wondering what where the model numbers for the parts you got for your engine? I know i can find some of the stuff at bj's offroad but i dont know what to use for my ignition since im wanting to update it some.

http://www.bjsoffroad.com/cartgenie/prod-926.htm

take the old dist. off, put the old gear on the new distributor.... drop it in facing the same way and your done. :thumbsup:

[RussellS]

Thanx And good luck with your truck.

[holley2346]

Well I got my tires, BJ's offroad is great.

Good deal and free shipping on some amazing tires.

Here's the pics. :)

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4031/4565039116_44da062251.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4564404771_b7ffa26231.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4068/4565035574_8fa9e4b670.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3016/4564407195_8393321d3c.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4565036548_4d301e500b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4564406703_8ceeea17a7.jpg

[DezertBound]

looks good what size are the new tires.

[holley2346]

38.5/15.5 :thumbsup:

[fireman91186]

Truck looks real good.
Gotta love the look of boggers on a FSJ.

[jeepjerry]

Wow that looks awesome!!!!...:thumbsup:

Well, how does it drive so far on the stock gears?

[rocklaurence]

Just cant beat Boggers! How is the front drive shaft angle with the 6" lift?

[holley2346]

Wow that looks awesome!!!!...:thumbsup:

Well, how does it drive so far on the stock gears?

It drives great, the motor handles it well. And they threw up chunks of mud today at least 35 feet or so. This doesn't throw mud. It throws CHUNKS.... BIG CHUNKS. Sounds like hail hitting the roof.... I love em and I love the look! :)

Just cant beat Boggers! How is the front drive shaft angle with the 6" lift?

There are no problems with the front drive shaft, it didn't even need to be lengthened..... even with the extended shackles. :D

--

I was at the bog all day today, and besides bending my aluminum blocks (I replaced them at the bog with some 4" Ford steel blocks)... the tires and jeep did great!


I am SO tired of having rear end problems though. It's always my fault, I just don't have much experience with diffs and I have redone the gears or added/removed lockers at least 13 or 14 times now. I had to reweld the crosspin this afternoon after the bog and it's still whining like crazy. :mad: I wish I never would of touched the rear end in the first place and just left it open so I wouldn't of had near the amount of problems....

I'm still looking for a good strong 3/4 or 1 ton rear end that I can get cheaply.

[holley2346]

I got some new pics today, after I cleaned my truck up. I just can't get over how good they look.... it kinda reminds me of a Tonka truck. :thumbsup:


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4572300735_f416cd941c.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4572301715_6e802b7d8a.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3308/4572302459_37a5941c7b.jpg



I am happy about the change.... and am not having any problems with axle shafts or hubs.... knock on wood. :D

I really like hearing opinions.... so pitch in. :fsj:

[rocklaurence]

Fat 38" tires are going to need 4:88's or 5:13's to make them SING;) Believe me with lockers and all the added traction of the Boggers you'll need more gear.:fsj:

[yoslvr442]

very cool. looks good

[holley2346]

I was just going to update this thread....

The jeep is still doing pretty good. Normal wear and tear is eating it up though.... As of now I have;

No front drive shaft. (exploded pulling out a tractor)
Slipping clutch. (just doesn't grab anymore)
Rear ring and pinion has a lot of chips out of it. (didn't wear it in properly)
Severe leak from the power steering pump
Leaking oil pan
Leaking transmission
Leaking transfer case

Starting Monday I will be ordering;

Brand new front driveshaft
Centerforce Clutch
New ring and pinion (still in the 3.54 world until I get the $$ for 1 tons)

I may or may not get the ring and pinion, as I'm more than ready to invest in 1 tons and wheels to suit them (about $800 for a set of 1 tons is cheap around here).

Other than that, I have no body damage to report and will likely be painting the jeep within the coming year.

I want this color;

http://razorsedgeproducts.com/clipart/Front_page_art/Ford_lightning_f150_orange_crush.jpg

EDIT: I also would like to say I love my tires, and the high gear ratio helps to save all the axle shafts (which I have had 0 problems out of).

[rocklaurence]

Sounds like your running out of Time, patience and money. Time to sell it;) . So many get to this point and sell it for less than what its worth and get something more economical--You?:cool:

[JeepsAndGuns]

I'd say you would be wasting money to put a new ring and pinion in that axle if your planning on one tons. I would say forget that and go ahead and put the money twards the one tons and dont look back.

[El_Diablo]

agreed, just go one tons

[holley2346]

Sounds like your running out of Time, patience and money. Time to sell it;) . So many get to this point and sell it for less than what its worth and get something more economical--You?:cool:

This jeep has been in the family since it was purchased, it will never be sold. :)

Personally I feel like it's my job to keep it going to make it better than it was.... which I have done, just haven't quite buttoned everything up.... I have made a definite start though.

Along with the upgrades I mentioned previously. I am looking at doing a cam swap, and am leaning towards this cam;

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2392&gid=297

I WANT a choppy sounding cam with lots of low end power, and this seems to fit the bill. :thumbsup:

[holley2346]

agreed, just go one tons

If I had the $$ it would be done right now. :thumbsup:

[FleXXedOUT88]

dude the your j looks sweet man i love the boggers i have a set of 38in TSLs for it and im doin a full chevy drivetrain swap. with some ccuv 1 tons! love the truck!

[holley2346]

dude the your j looks sweet man i love the boggers i have a set of 38in TSLs for it and im doin a full chevy drivetrain swap. with some ccuv 1 tons! love the truck!

Appreciate it :thumbsup:

The great thing about jeeps.... you can leave em stock and they will still go through a lot of things that other trucks wouldn't..... back when I had 33's I had not spent near the amount of money as I have now, and it was still almost as capable as it is now. :fsj:

[FleXXedOUT88]

oh yeah!!! you will be suprised what a semi stock truk todo if u aint scared to drive it!

[holley2346]

Well I successfully installed the new steering box, and also installed my body lift for extra flex room :).

Cab done, bed is next.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4133/4839181359_5a8454721e.jpg

Made a new clutch linkage, also had to cut about 3 inches out of the floor because of the angle.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4132/4839793536_0f24dc44a5.jpg

Doesn't look like I'll be shifting into 4wd any time soon :eek:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4087/4839180503_10cdd41a11.jpg

And.... FINALLY flexing again :thumbsup:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4106/4839179981_c6ea3ff936.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/4839791718_c9f50dc0e6.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/4839790882_4a8e32f34e.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/4839174183_5393fbd9c6.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4107/4839786132_33cc644378.jpg

[woodfar]

What is the door on drivers side by the gas cap?

[holley2346]

What is the door on drivers side by the gas cap?

It was a secondary gas tank.

[holley2346]

What in the world is on my trailer?!?!?

It freaking looks huge..... those brakes are big.... what in the world is that?
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/4840813409_d501cbe9f0.jpg

Wait how many bolts is that?
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4144/4841428116_9cc00705af.jpg

Oh wow it's 14 :eek:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4105/4841429030_50ba4f2189.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4148/4840815769_0f74f2ea4b.jpg

I came across this rear axle (Corporate 14 bolt SRW FF) and a d44 front (suppsedly 3/4 ton) both with

Brand new seals
Brand new bearings
Brand new gears (4.88) :thumbsup:

I couldn't resist and had to make the upgrade

I'm going to get the other one this afternoon. :drivin::fsj::drivin::fsj:

[ClovisMan]

What in the world is on my trailer?!?!?

It freaking looks huge..... those brakes are big.... what in the world is that?
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/4840813409_d501cbe9f0.jpg

Wait how many bolts is that?
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4144/4841428116_9cc00705af.jpg

Oh wow it's 14 :eek:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4105/4841429030_50ba4f2189.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4148/4840815769_0f74f2ea4b.jpg

I came across this rear axle (Corporate 14 bolt SRW FF) and a d44 front (suppsedly 3/4 ton) both with

Brand new seals
Brand new bearings
Brand new gears (4.88) :thumbsup:

I couldn't resist and had to make the upgrade

I'm going to get the other one this afternoon. :drivin::fsj::drivin::fsj:Man, you need to come and paint mine...
http://www.jeepmilitia.com/forum/members/clovisman/albums/88-grand-wagoneer-build/379-14bff.jpg

[holley2346]

Went to summit racing today in Georgia and got a few goodies.... to bad I forgot springs and retainers while I was there. :banghead:

I still am waiting on some crager soft 8's, the retainers, and the springs. :thumbsup:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4851617337_9e04cffea4.jpg

[holley2346]

Just as an update for those who just started in and didn't look at the first three pages.....

Jeeps are a money pit. This all started last christmas when I had to DRAG the jeep out of the shop after sitting for about 8 years or so.... I just wanted a simple mud toy.

Then I got the bigger and better sickness..... so far I have sank over 8,000 into this jeep and still have a good bit to go. I have learned so much in this process and would do it over again if I had the chance. :thumbsup:

My list of modifications;

Edelbrock AVS Thunder 650 CFM carb
Edelbrock Performer Intake
Mallory HEI Ignition
Dick Cepek Crushers 33x12.5-15 (now have 38.5x15-15 TSL Boggers)
3 Sets of KC's
Rearched Springs (Replaced front with BJ's 6" Lift springs)
BJ's Roll Bar
Pro Comp 1069 Wheels (now back to crager soft 8's painted black)
3" Body Lift
SS Brake Lines
Drop Pitman Arm
BJ's Lift Shackles
Rancho Shocks
Corporate 14 Bolt Rear (4.88's)
4" Steel Ford Blocks

Parts I have but haven't installed;
Centerforce Clutch
Comp Cams Cam / lifters / springs / retainers

I am negotiating with a few people trying to get a good deal on a D60 front which will be spooled / crossover steering.

The original truck;

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/4238384534_3673162312.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2782/4238385090_36f30987c2.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4238385830_13c0bccb74.jpg


The truck as it sits now.... still waiting for her springs to be put on top of the axle. :thumbsup:


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4133/4839181359_5a8454721e.jpg


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4106/4839179981_c6ea3ff936.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/4839791718_c9f50dc0e6.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/4839790882_4a8e32f34e.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/4839174183_5393fbd9c6.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4107/4839786132_33cc644378.jpg

[holley2346]

I went to Cummings Georgia today and picked up a d60 front... tomorrow I'll order;

High steer arms
Steering Linkages
8 Lug 15" Wheels
4.88 gears from Bj's
Full Spool.... not sure from where yet

pics; (had to host em on facebook... lost my flickr login.)

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs180.ash2/44298_428913018185_785823185_4858017_3664305_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs380.snc4/44273_428913068185_785823185_4858018_8050681_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs180.ash2/44340_428913213185_785823185_4858021_6557265_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs389.snc4/45213_428913273185_785823185_4858022_8338791_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs280.snc4/40324_428913338185_785823185_4858023_2154310_n.jpg

Getting closer and closer to having a good rig :D

[The Hammer]

Very nice looking rig.:thumbsup: :fsj:

[The Hammer]

I need to ask, what are those aluminum wheels?? Size??

Thanks

[rocklaurence]

Full on Gonzo Crazy $$$:eek:

[JeepsAndGuns]

I think I see the front end loader of a JD tractor, looks to be about the size of a 5000 series.
Makes for easy moving of a front axle.

Wish I could be doing the same with my cherokee. I have the axle but its in 100 peices needing rebuilt.

[holley2346]

I'm having problems finding the top plate for the pumpkin side of the axle. If anyone knows where you can find these just let me know.

Thanks

edit:

I found the top plates for the ubolts....

I decided to do crossover steering instead of high steer just to save some cash...

I ordered;

steering arm from parts mike
15" 8 lug wheels
a u bolt kit

still left to order;

steering linkages
spool
4.88 gears

I can't justify the price of lockers yet. :(

[holley2346]

I need to ask, what are those aluminum wheels?? Size??

Thanks

I believe they were pro comp 1069 series 15x10" wheels. They lost their shine pretty quick though.... just from not keeping them washed... they never really went through mud. :o

[gotmike]

I went to Cummings Georgia today and picked up a d60 front...

i'm guessing that's a town... not the cummins plant down there???

[HerrKooled]

what does the plate stand for?

[gotmike]

it seems like there's two different axles in those pics...

[holley2346]

what does the plate stand for?

Kountry Klunkers... just a local group. :thumbsup:

[holley2346]

it seems like there's two different axles in those pics...

The first pics of it laying on the floor are when I first got it into the shop.... while it was hanging in the air I sprayed some paint on it (like I do everything). :thumbsup:

It's amazing what a little paint will do to add to something.... I try not to make it look tacky though. I'll likely do like I did on the back and have a black cover with orange bolts.... and you may also be looking at the old axle picture? I took a pic of the old axle sitting beside the truck too.... you can tell the difference by the lug pattern. :)

[holley2346]

i'm guessing that's a town... not the cummins plant down there???[/left]

Yeah it's the town, about 40 miles north of Atlanta. Almost a 4 hour drive one way, but it was worth it.... the seller was a very nice guy and had an awesome looking project with 1 tons / detroits / not sure how much lift / 42" tires / steering assist / high steer / the list goes on and on.

[jeeping1974]

If you go with a spool (you can find them pretty cheap on e-bay) in the front, you may want to look into going with at least hydro assist if not full hydro. Otherwise look for a lock rite and call it good til you can save up more.

[holley2346]

If you go with a spool (you can find them pretty cheap on e-bay) in the front, you may want to look into going with at least hydro assist if not full hydro. Otherwise look for a lock rite and call it good til you can save up more.

In my mind the lock right will lock up with the difference in tire roatation while your turning anyway? The locker thinks it's a loss of traction when your just turning..... so wouldn't this have the same effect as a spool?

I may be 100 percent wrong, in my mind this is just how it works....

Never the less, I will be installing hydro assist in the near future to aid in steering as my stock steering components dislike the larger tires.... I'm looking at (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/PSC-Single-End-8-Stroke-Cylinder-Assist-Cylinder-p-1159.html) Then all I need are the lines. :thumbsup:

Also... if I were to get a lock right I'd have to get a new carrier since I'm passing the carrier break..... in that case a complete replacement like a Detroit would make more sense.

[jeeping1974]

The lock rite will "ratchet" as you turn til you send it power in which case it will then lock up. If you are going to be adding hydro assist the same time you install the axle with the new gears, I would just throw a spool in there then. Turning with a spooled front end and no hydro stinks.

[rocklaurence]

In regards to the Locker in front, the two out side cups can run faster than the center section (un-lock) as when the outside wheel has to traval further (faster) in a turn. The limiting factor (locking factor) is that niether outside cup can run slower than the center (carrier) section. So, the faster outside wheel unlocks in a turn.

[Rompn]

Rig looks good. Couple of questions... how does the rig drive on the road at speed with the 4.88 gears and the 38's? I have 38" TSL's and am deciding on gear choices myself. Also, any rubbing with the 38's? I don't plan to cut my flares at all and will be right around the same amount of lift just in a different configuration that you have. Thanks. :thumbsup:

[gotmike]

it just looked like one was passenger drop one was drivers drop...

[holley2346]

Rig looks good. Couple of questions... how does the rig drive on the road at speed with the 4.88 gears and the 38's? I have 38" TSL's and am deciding on gear choices myself. Also, any rubbing with the 38's? I don't plan to cut my flares at all and will be right around the same amount of lift just in a different configuration that you have. Thanks. :thumbsup:
On the road with a manual tranny cruising speed down the highway you'll be pulling anywhere from 2100 to 2500 rpm's with 4.88 gears... with 3.54's I was going 55-60 at 1500 rpms... but offroad you won't regret it. With a tired 360 I have no troule in 2wd high in 3rd in the mud throwing extremely big rooster tails.... I haven't gotten to try out 4wd low yet as I haven't had the front set up yet... Just note that with 38's, 4.88's and the granny first in 2 wheel high it crawls real nice... 4wheel low is gonna be amazing (no pedal to climb moderate hills). :thumbsup:

Also - There is 0 rubbing even with moderate flex... I have some flexed out pics and that was about as far as I could go with that setup.

it just looked like one was passenger drop one was drivers drop...

In the first pictures the axle is upside down and flipped backwards.... just look at the perches and you'll understand... I had to get the cherry picker to flip it around and use some brute force as well. :)

[Rompn]

On the road with a manual tranny cruising speed down the highway you'll be pulling anywhere from 2100 to 2500 rpm's with 4.88 gears... with 3.54's I was going 55-60 at 1500 rpms... but offroad you won't regret it. With a tired 360 I have no troule in 2wd high in 3rd in the mud throwing extremely big rooster tails.... I haven't gotten to try out 4wd low yet as I haven't had the front set up yet... Just note that with 38's, 4.88's and the granny first in 2 wheel high it crawls real nice... 4wheel low is gonna be amazing (no pedal to climb moderate hills). :thumbsup:

Also - There is 0 rubbing even with moderate flex... I have some flexed out pics and that was about as far as I could go with that setup.
Thanks for the info. :thumbsup: Do you have any idea what backspacing you have on the rims? I take it they are 15x10's? Also, are you only running a 4" block out back or do you have lift springs and/or shackle reversal? I have a 3" block on my stock springs in the rear and the 38's wouldn't even fit sitting in the driveway without rubbing the flares hard.

[holley2346]

Thanks for the info. :thumbsup: Do you have any idea what backspacing you have on the rims? I take it they are 15x10's? Also, are you only running a 4" block out back or do you have lift springs and/or shackle reversal? I have a 3" block on my stock springs in the rear and the 38's wouldn't even fit sitting in the driveway without rubbing the flares hard.
The rims I'm using now are 8 lug 15x10 with 3.5" backspacing. I have 4 inch blocks 2 inch aal and shackle flip in the back. I had to have the blocks to keep my springs outboarded because they are so close to the drums.

[Rompn]

The rims I'm using now are 8 lug 15x10 with 3.5" backspacing. I have 4 inch blocks 2 inch aal and shackle flip in the back. I had to have the blocks to keep my springs outboarded because they are so close to the drums.

Why not inboard the springs under the frame so that you can ditch the 2" AAL and 4" block?

[holley2346]

Why not inboard the springs under the frame so that you can ditch the 2" AAL and 4" block?

I don't trust my welding ability nor anyone elses enough for that. Post mount will have to do for now.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have made some progress lately. Today I completely tore the axle apart down to the knuckles. I wanted to clean everything up and make sure everything was done right. I am glad I did because the hubs had very watery grease, the pumpkin dripped out a few drops of burnt fluid when I popped the cover off, the passenger side kingpin also had no bearing in it :confused:

I wasn't even thinking when I ordered the spool and ordered a 30 spline version instead of the 35. :banghead:

Monday I'll order the proper spool, as well as a psc steering assist kit. Hopefully I'll be ready to order shafts thursday.... I may end up biting the bullet on a High Angle Driveline front shaft (despite the crazy pricing). I just want it done right with almost no chances of breaking.

Bare axle;
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4936157108_9877f9668b.jpg

No Kingpin Bearing :confused:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4936164652_cccc9b15d7.jpg

Half Way There
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/4935579317_09f42191db.jpg

Old drag link fits inside the new draglink :thumbsup:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4935582597_8c6bd69ce4.jpg

TRE's are a little beefier
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4935586051_ffd5929eae.jpg

Shaved the calipers and brackets to fit a 15" wheel... forgot to take a pic with calper on.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4935593675_59431553cc.jpg

Free stuff is always good
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4095/4935607551_c8935fe30b.jpg

4.88 gears + spool (it represents the correct spool)
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4935611637_11271cf19c.jpg

I don't think I'm going to bend any steering linkage :eek:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4936204704_7587ffacae.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4936207720_482e5345e8.jpg

Input is appreciated... :cool:

[orangecherokee]

you'd be surprised about the tie rod. I didn't go back and look but are you going high steer? If not, you'll bend that tie rod eventually. I have a solid tie rod. It came from a hydraulic cylinder. I had a guy cut, bore and thread the ends to fit TREs. I've bent it a handful of times so far. It's not the left/right that gets you. It's the big @$$ rock that gets in your way. Granted this is a mud truck but you may end up kissing the bottom of a rut one day.

[holley2346]

you'd be surprised about the tie rod. I didn't go back and look but are you going high steer? If not, you'll bend that tie rod eventually. I have a solid tie rod. It came from a hydraulic cylinder. I had a guy cut, bore and thread the ends to fit TREs. I've bent it a handful of times so far. It's not the left/right that gets you. It's the big @$$ rock that gets in your way. Granted this is a mud truck but you may end up kissing the bottom of a rut one day.

I'm doing crossover steering.... there isn't too much rock down here where I'm at in Alabama. My stock steering components haven't bent yet in it's life as an offroad truck, so hopefully the beefed up components will do well.

[Mr.Happyface]

The truck looks awsome:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D.

[El_Diablo]

you'd be surprised about the tie rod. I didn't go back and look but are you going high steer? If not, you'll bend that tie rod eventually. I have a solid tie rod. It came from a hydraulic cylinder. I had a guy cut, bore and thread the ends to fit TREs. I've bent it a handful of times so far. It's not the left/right that gets you. It's the big @$$ rock that gets in your way. Granted this is a mud truck but you may end up kissing the bottom of a rut one day.hollow is stronger than solid (sizes being the same) ;)

[orangecherokee]

hollow is stronger than solid (sizes being the same) ;)

explain that to me. not disagreeing but I'd personally like to know.

[gotmike]

it has to do with the molecullar structure... when it's a tube it's essentially two parallel sheets one being pulled along it's length one being compressed... whereas one solid bar is molecularly connected can therefor just re-arranges by displacing the metal in the front of the bar to the rear of the bar when impacted and bent...

[El_Diablo]

yeah, what he said :p





:thumbsup:

[rocklaurence]

I read an article in the Mags about tubing strength & diameter of tubing (suspension building). The greatest increase in strength is by increasing diameter not the thickness of the metal. However, a solid rod is stronger than a tube of the same diameter--So, they said. IDO?

[orangecherokee]

it has to do with the molecullar structure... when it's a tube it's essentially two parallel sheets one being pulled along it's length one being compressed... whereas one solid bar is molecularly connected can therefor just re-arranges by displacing the metal in the front of the bar to the rear of the bar when impacted and bent...

I read an article in the Mags about tubing strength & diameter of tubing (suspension building). The greatest increase in strength is by increasing diameter not the thickness of the metal. However, a solid rod is stronger than a tube of the same diameter--So, they said. IDO?

cage match.

edit: i went and checked myself on a few sites and rocklaurence is correct. If the tubes are the same diameter, the solid bar is stronger. However, if the tubes have the same mass, the hollow is superior because of it's larger diameter.

[jeeping1974]

I don't trust my welding ability nor anyone elses enough for that. Post mount will have to do for now. Input is appreciated... :cool:

When I did mine, I drilled two holes and installed two 9/16" bolts with nylon lock nuts. Later on I burned them in. All you need is good heat penatration. I'm sure that there is a welding company that makes house calls in your area that is willing to show up, burn in 4 hangers charge you under $100 and you'll never look back.

I'd trust that over 4" blocks and AALs.

[holley2346]

A little more progress today... rebuilt the passenger side kingpin and installed parts mike high steer arm. Also cut down the DOM tube to the proper lengths. I didn't install the tie rod as I haven't installed the spool yet.

Steering arm;
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4953348512_681260fe93.jpg

Finally got down to the BOM
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/4953348044_f42e38ee5c.jpg

Welded up nicely
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4129/4953347758_3e97828372.jpg

Found springplates on ebay, they fit perfectly :thumbsup:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4085/4953347384_d9c36a6f60.jpg

Pressed the bearings onto the spool and pinion
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/4952754307_106473e7f2.jpg

[JeepsAndGuns]

Are those the springless high steer arms? I'm thinking I will get the springless type when I get around to building my 60.
Also, it looks like one of those nuts are on upside down.

[holley2346]

Are those the springless high steer arms? I'm thinking I will get the springless type when I get around to building my 60.
Also, it looks like one of those nuts are on upside down.

Yup they are the springless type... I can't tell you how it drives yet, but hopefully it will work well, and the last stud wouldn't go down far enough therefore the last nut is upside down. :thumbsup:

[holley2346]

Finally took the jeep out again... man the thing drives AMAZING with the new axle. Doesn't wander around on the road at all. Drives like my tahoe now :)


I did however fall into a ditch... you can't see anything over the hood! :banghead:

All this resulted in burning up a starter / starter solonoid and creating some sort of popping problem with my steering box. :mad:

With 4wd I could've gotten out easy.. too bad the reason I was wheeling was to take measurements for HAD!

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs660.snc4/60047_1484081777317_1092044550_31195553_2529876_n. jpg

After some of this;

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs700.snc4/62062_1484114578137_1092044550_31195601_397614_n.j pg

I was back out! Don't ask me why I ended up in the ditch... maybe I was trying to climb over and didn't see the ditch? Idk

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs704.snc4/62415_1484080737291_1092044550_31195551_6828164_n. jpg

On to the good pics;

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4086/5021739941_3d51835411.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/5021735271_52e8fd3781.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4130/5022351322_8efa686dc3.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/5021748157_b2a1fd0e76.jpg

I love feedback :D

[Mr.Happyface]

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Cool.:thumbsup:

[Rompn]

Glad you got everything back together and out for testing. What is the current suspension now? 6" springs, SOA, 1" shackle up font plus a 3" body lift? Roughly 15" or so of lift? In all honesty, it looks good but too tall for those tires in my opinion. If you weren't rubbing before when you were sprung under and ~5" lower, why go higher? I would sell those 6" springs and put on a set of 4" lift Chevy springs which should gain you roughly 2" of lift and ditch the body lift (if it's still on, hard to tell from the pic's). How does it flex now? I'd be interested to see. The rig has come a long way though, I'm sure it feels good to get it back out being one ton now. :thumbsup:

[holley2346]

Glad you got everything back together and out for testing. What is the current suspension now? 6" springs, SOA, 1" shackle up font plus a 3" body lift? Roughly 15" or so of lift? In all honesty, it looks good but too tall for those tires in my opinion. If you weren't rubbing before when you were sprung under and ~5" lower, why go higher? I would sell those 6" springs and put on a set of 4" lift Chevy springs which should gain you roughly 2" of lift and ditch the body lift (if it's still on, hard to tell from the pic's). How does it flex now? I'd be interested to see. The rig has come a long way though, I'm sure it feels good to get it back out being one ton now. :thumbsup:

1) Why the extra lift? Well with a 3xx,xxx mile motor an upgrade is in the works.... most of yall will never look at this build again because it will likely be a chevy motor (I know I know, original.... but for the price I can't justify it)

2) I need room for 44x20's.... I'm just waiting for the motor so I will have the power to move them like they need to be

3) It feels GREAT being 1 ton.... I have no worries now... I just need to get that front driveshaft! I'm calling tom woods and HAD tomorrow with the measurements.... I'm not so much worried about the price as long as the chances of it breaking are low

4) Did some minor flexing today, but I'm limited in the rear... the rear just doesn't flex like I want it to. I guess because of the lack of weight... if you have any suggestions I'm completely open

I appreciate the input and think it looks very good the way it sits :) If I ever get uncomfortable with the height as far as stability I'm going to knock it down some.

I got my exhaust redone today... Sorry I didn't even think about taking pics from down under after it was finished. :banghead:

Gutted everything;

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4125/5034431489_a1d624120a.jpg

You can see where the exhaust exits... It's true duals and exits in the same location on each side.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4106/5034432077_f4093a988a.jpg

I wanted the exhaust to be short so that I'd get close to a mustang sound..... I've never gotten it this close to sounding like a stang it sounds NICE... good hollow deep sound. :thumbsup:

I used mufflers that look exactly like a flomaster 40 on the inside... just a lil cheaper. I don't have cats and it sounds great :D

[Rompn]

1) Why the extra lift? Well with a 3xx,xxx mile motor an upgrade is in the works.... most of yall will never look at this build again because it will likely be a chevy motor (I know I know, original.... but for the price I can't justify it)
Do you still have the body lift?... And I am finishing up my Chevy 355 conversion on my Cherokee so let me know if you have any questions.

2) I need room for 44x20's.... I'm just waiting for the motor so I will have the power to move them like they need to be.
Sounds good. It will be interesting to see if the 44's clear without cutting the flares up.

3) It feels GREAT being 1 ton.... I have no worries now... I just need to get that front driveshaft! I'm calling tom woods and HAD tomorrow with the measurements.... I'm not so much worried about the price as long as the chances of it breaking are low

4) Did some minor flexing today, but I'm limited in the rear... the rear just doesn't flex like I want it to. I guess because of the lack of weight... if you have any suggestions I'm completely open
I would guess the AAL's aren't helping the flex much. I would look into a 63" swap. Your probably not going to have enough lift with just the 63's under the frame so you may need to keep the 4" block. Your going to get some spring wrap though with those soft and long of a spring on a 4" block turning 44's.

[holley2346]

Talked to HAD and Tom Woods today.... Tom Woods couldn't make anything and HAD quoted me ~1,300 dollars for a front shaft. :eek:

Currently the shaft has a ~37 degree angle
T-Case is pointing up 7 degrees
Axle is pointing up 7 degrees
So what to do now?

1) Well, I'm ditching the big shackles.
2) I'm going to try flipping the springs around to push the front axle forward
3) If that's not enough I'm going to take some leafs out

I was thinking of doubling dana 20's or doing some type of doubler to push the tcase back.... but can't find nearly enough information anywhere and all of it I did find pretty much went over my head....

I need options please. :thumbsup:

And for your conversion, what adapter did you use? And can you use the newer generation motors with the adapter? Like the new 4.8 / 5.3 with standalone ecm?

Thanks!

[Rompn]

Talked to HAD and Tom Woods today.... Tom Woods couldn't make anything and HAD quoted me ~1,300 dollars for a front shaft. :eek:

Currently the shaft has a ~37 degree angle
T-Case is pointing up 7 degrees
Axle is pointing up 7 degrees
So what to do now?

1) Well, I'm ditching the big shackles.
2) I'm going to try flipping the springs around to push the front axle forward
3) If that's not enough I'm going to take some leafs out

I was thinking of doubling dana 20's or doing some type of doubler to push the tcase back.... but can't find nearly enough information anywhere and all of it I did find pretty much went over my head....

I need options please. :thumbsup:

And for your conversion, what adapter did you use? And can you use the newer generation motors with the adapter? Like the new 4.8 / 5.3 with standalone ecm?

Thanks!

$1,300 for driveshaft is crazy. I think if you plan to have a usable suspension under your rig with 38's let alone soon to come 44's, you need to do a combination of things. You need to lose some lift which means your going to have to cut some fenders if you want to keep the flex. Moving the front axle forward would definitely help as well. Also something to keep in mind is that when you go to the Chevy engine, you can move your mounts where ever you want them. I went as far back and lowest in the engine compartment without having to hack into anything. That was definitively a few inches there as well.
I would do your engine swap, take off the extended shackles, possibly lose a few leafs out of the pack or trade for a 4" set and then get your driveshaft made (possibly go to a CV setup). If you don't, it is going to end up too long and may bottom itself out before full stuff.
I wouldn't go the doubler route unless your changing transfer cases during the swap.
My setup is a Chevy 355,TH400, Dana 20 (with the 3.15:1 Tera Low kit), SOA with 4" Skyjacker springs up front, haven't decided on the back yet but probably going to go inboard under the frame with stock springs or a 63" swap. To answer your question, my transmission is a Chevy setup so the bellhousing bolts right up to the engine with no adapters. The only adapter I have is from the trans to the transfer case. Not sure what adapter is/are needed if your going the LSX route but I would just get a 6.0 with a 4L80E out of a HD truck and put the entire setup in.

[holley2346]

I would just get a 6.0 with a 4L80E out of a HD truck and put the entire setup in.

And get an adapter for the tcase? Or is the new chevy stuff pass drop too?

[jeeping1974]

A little more progress today... rebuilt the passenger side kingpin and installed parts mike high steer arm. Also cut down the DOM tube to the proper lengths. I didn't install the tie rod as I haven't installed the spool yet.

Steering arm;
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4953348512_681260fe93.jpg


looks like one nut is on upside down. FYI


Pressed the bearings onto the spool and pinion
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/4952754307_106473e7f2.jpg

Is this for the Dana 60? Did you set up the gears yourself? What brand did you go with or did you just replace the carrier with a spool/new bearings and set backlash/pinion depth/pinion preload?

I know that this is an older post and maybe I missed this info along the way.

[Josh D]

Man, that rig got big quick!!

Have fun swapping motors in and out of that thing!!

[AlsChopShop]

for a $1300 front shaft you'd be crazy not to just go for a doubler! i know you are more of a mud guy, but gear options are always a plus when you get into a tough spot. plus you'll save on that front shaft.

have you thought about going with a square tube front shaft?


and like josh d said... good luck with the motor swap with it that tall. i hope you have a shop with a rafter hoist! that's why i did my motor swap first while it was low enough to be manageable, then i can mess with the suspension later!

Al

[holley2346]

looks like one nut is on upside down. FYI



Is this for the Dana 60? Did you set up the gears yourself? What brand did you go with or did you just replace the carrier with a spool/new bearings and set backlash/pinion depth/pinion preload?

I know that this is an older post and maybe I missed this info along the way.
The gears are motive gear brand. If I had the option I wouldn't buy them again because they didn't come with a specs sheet and you had to start shooting in the dark with shims. The actual gear setup was done by a good friend, but with a d60 its easy. The pinion shims are behind the races.I did replace the carrier with the spool and then set everything up. A few thousands here and there go a long way.:thumbsup:

[holley2346]

for a $1300 front shaft you'd be crazy not to just go for a doubler! i know you are more of a mud guy, but gear options are always a plus when you get into a tough spot. plus you'll save on that front shaft.

have you thought about going with a square tube front shaft?


and like josh d said... good luck with the motor swap with it that tall. i hope you have a shop with a rafter hoist! that's why i did my motor swap first while it was low enough to be manageable, then i can mess with the suspension later!

Al
I will likely end up taking the front clip off for the motor swap. And to save on the price of the shaft I'm just going to knock some lift off the front and flip the springs for some more room.

[jeeping1974]

The gears are motive gear brand. If I had the option I wouldn't buy them again because they didn't come with a specs sheet and you had to start shooting in the dark with shims.

I know that richmond, yukon, standard, usa gear and genuine gears don't come with a spec sheet as setup from axle to axle will differ. I've never had an issue setting up a set of Motive, yukon and USA gears. Standard and genuine I have though. Richmond setup by far the easiest and nicest plus I think they are well worth the money.... but that's just me.

The build is coming a long nicely.

[holley2346]

The build is coming a long nicely.

Thanks! :)

I drove the jeep home today with the new clutch in, and wow what a difference. And I'm not sure what else they did, or if it was my imagination... but it drove extremely smooth on the way home.

Also; I took my extended shackles off and lost just enough lift to get some better angles... the price for my drive shaft is now HALF. So I should get it in by the end of next week from HAD just in time to be ready for the October 16th mud bog :cool:

:drivin:

[Rompn]

Also; I took my extended shackles off and lost just enough lift to get some better angles... the price for my drive shaft is now HALF. So I should get it in by the end of next week from HAD just in time to be ready for the October 16th mud bog :cool::drivin:

Got any pic's? I'd be interested to see how much lift was removed just by getting rid of those shackles.

[The_Turd]

Im curious, your front shaft is (or was) at 37* and u took of the longer shackles, whats your angle running at now?

I have BJ's shackles and SOA and my shaft is at 32* :o I have a bastardized stock/dodge shaft in there with Tom Woods super flex joint and it gets the job done as I couldn't drop $800 on a HAD...

Just curious about the angle is all :D

Nice truck by the way :thumbsup:

[holley2346]

Got any pic's? I'd be interested to see how much lift was removed just by getting rid of those shackles.

It wasn't a noticable amount by eye... the front is still ~3" higher than the back, but looks almost level. I meant to snap a pic for you today but forgot about it. I'll get some more soon. :thumbsup:

Im curious, your front shaft is (or was) at 37* and u took of the longer shackles, whats your angle running at now?

I have BJ's shackles and SOA and my shaft is at 32* :o I have a bastardized stock/dodge shaft in there with Tom Woods super flex joint and it gets the job done as I couldn't drop $800 on a HAD...

Just curious about the angle is all :D

Nice truck by the way :thumbsup:

The new shaft ended up being 649 with new flanges for the tcase/diff. I think I ended up somewhere around 34-35... the first measurements could of also been off with my home made angle finder with a protractor... I used an angle finder the second time.

[orangecherokee]

I skimmed so pardon me if this is off a tad. I would not go with a doubler. You've got no need for it. A stout 205 will last you your days indefinitely especially with a auto tranny. If you ever go lower then you can always get the low range 3:1 kit.

$1300 is retarded. I have never paid more than $200 a shaft. Go to a local shop and talk with them. Tell them what you're after and I think you'll be pleased. I'd suggest a place that sells Spicer parts. Not knocking Jess or Tom but they've got a name and you'll be paying for it.

If you're swapping engines, push it back. Help your weight distribution and driveline angles.

[holley2346]

I skimmed so pardon me if this is off a tad. I would not go with a doubler. You've got no need for it. A stout 205 will last you your days indefinitely especially with a auto tranny. If you ever go lower then you can always get the low range 3:1 kit.

$1300 is retarded. I have never paid more than $200 a shaft. Go to a local shop and talk with them. Tell them what you're after and I think you'll be pleased. I'd suggest a place that sells Spicer parts. Not knocking Jess or Tom but they've got a name and you'll be paying for it.

If you're swapping engines, push it back. Help your weight distribution and driveline angles.

I currently have a 360/t-18/d20 combo

I halved the 1300 dollar price by taking a few inches off of the front, and have already paid for it... should have it here by next Friday :thumbsup:

Thanks for the engine location reccommendation I would've been asking that question pretty soon.

Thanks for checkin my truck out. :fsj:

[orangecherokee]

I currently have a 360/t-18/d20 combo

I halved the 1300 dollar price by taking a few inches off of the front, and have already paid for it... should have it here by next Friday :thumbsup:

Thanks for the engine location reccommendation I would've been asking that question pretty soon.

Thanks for checkin my truck out. :fsj:

whoops. I thought someone posted something about a 205 and a th400. sorry.

[holley2346]

Well the Jeep did great today.... of course until the last hole.

I went to the last mud bog of the year today to test everything out... After riding some I broke a rag joint, drove an hour and got 2 new ones. Long story short it was getting dark and I was overly confident since I hadn't gotten stuck yet (and went through some thick stuff)... I finally found a hole that got me....

There are TONS of action pictures I just don't have them yet... all I have are the results. :o

I now have 8" lift springs.... the extra arch ads some serious height, that's good for looks.... but not so good for the driveshaft.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4086/5088361844_269db4c018.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4127/5087764831_7790fb2056.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4103/5087765781_5b9f05e30f.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4132/5088360798_718c817ed0.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4151/5087761289_ee70540213.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4133/5088359660_1348740b3b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4149/5087760387_eb320fc20d.jpg

Bitersweet. :o

[Dmntxn77]

I just read over this thread for the first time. Im not much of a fan of the bigger than a house mud truck, but since its a J-truck, im a fan of yours. Nice work!

To help your front driveline angle you need to pull the axle and take it to someone to turn the pinion up. This can be done by either pulling the tubes or knuckles. You can turn it up 10-12 degrees without any oiling issues. That should make a HUGE difference in your driveline angle.

For rear flex do like already suggested and frame mount some 63" chevy springs. You will be best off to order some new lift springs so that you can ditch the blocks. To tame the axle wrap, just build an anti-wrap bar (or two).

Good luck!

[Burn Victim]

Whats up with your shackles or is it just me??

Adam:drivin:

[orangecherokee]

Whats up with your shackles or is it just me??

Adam:drivin:

that's what they look like when they kick back and bend the main leaf. this is a perfect example of that.

edit: just noticed it was both sides. oof! looks like you'll be in the market for more leaves too.

[rocklaurence]

I hate to say it but I saw it coming (front springs and driveshaft). IMO, keep it as low as posible. Cut the fenders and loose 6" of lift. The shackles wont invert and you wont need a crazy expensive front DS.:o However, I give you a 10 for effort and I like to see that your really putt-n forth the effort to make this a great truck.:cool:

[Dmntxn77]

Cut the fenders??? BLASPHEMY....

If you have the pinion rotated up, then you can probably move your shackles to the back so that you dont bend anymore leafs. Or, have you considered military wrapped leafs?

[holley2346]

I hate to say it but I saw it coming (front springs and driveshaft). IMO, keep it as low as posible. Cut the fenders and loose 6" of lift. The shackles wont invert and you wont need a crazy expensive front DS.:o However, I give you a 10 for effort and I like to see that your really putt-n forth the effort to make this a great truck.:cool:

It's gonna lose 3 inches in the front (which will actually make the truck level) and I'll keep everything else the same.:thumbsup:

More Pics :D (they are hosted on facebook, so if you cant see em then facebook is blocked on the computer your on)


http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs413.ash2/69174_1213080102740_1700928838_406431_1393710_n.jp g

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs413.ash2/69174_1213080142741_1700928838_406432_7167267_n.jp g

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs831.snc4/69174_1213080062739_1700928838_406430_6451290_n.jp g

And the hole that killed my jeep.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs902.snc4/71532_1213081182767_1700928838_406439_603915_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs445.ash2/71874_1213082462799_1700928838_406444_8167666_n.jp g

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs096.snc4/36142_1213085982887_1700928838_406448_8011147_n.jp g

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs096.snc4/36142_1213086022888_1700928838_406449_3776788_n.jp g

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs416.ash2/69462_1213086182892_1700928838_406452_2035922_n.jp g

[Dmntxn77]

In case you are interested, here is my (dont have anymore though) front driveline angle with SOA and 2~3" lift springs and a 12* rotated center section. Trust me, this is the way to go. It doesnt interfere with steering geometry either like degree shims do.

This pinion is sitting at about the same height (relative to axle center line) as a HP D60 yet the yoke is pointed up instead of back like a HP axle...

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y130/dmntxn77/75%20Chief/1%20ton%20swap/D60%20Front/RotatedPinon3.jpg

[holley2346]

In case you are interested, here is my (dont have anymore though) front driveline angle with SOA and 2~3" lift springs and a 12* rotated center section. Trust me, this is the way to go. It doesnt interfere with steering geometry either like degree shims do.

This pinion is sitting at about the same height (relative to axle center line) as a HP D60 yet the yoke is pointed up instead of back like a HP axle...



Any good write ups on how to do this online? I've searched a good bit to no avail.

Thanks!

[ol HICKS]

Just seen your vids on the tube sounds good and looks good.:cool: :thumbsup:

[holley2346]

Videos


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQ_8QRoMFgI&feature=player_profilepage

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_profilepage&v=Gzd8LCKkBXI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPjzKYTCan8&feature=player_profilepage


And more pics!

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs831.snc4/69166_168589309817816_100000002452330_573556_74777 52_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs381.ash2/65955_168589293151151_100000002452330_573555_46725 72_n.jpg

[Dmntxn77]

Any good write ups on how to do this online? I've searched a good bit to no avail.

Thanks!

Im sure that you can find a few write-ups using google. Look for "dana 60 cut and turn" or "dana 60 knuckle rotate" or maybe "dana 60 tube rotate"

Its not THAT hard, but you might need a torch to heat up the tube, or you will need to find a shop with a press to press the knuckels off for you.

The knuckles slide into the axle tube a couple of inches and are VERY tight. Some people are able to rotate the the kuckle using leverage once the welds are ground, and some people have to remove the knuckle then rotate it and hammer it back in.

Keep in mind, you will have to rework the spring perch on the pumpkin side and rotate the perch on the tube side.

Its more work, but its a heck of a lot better than busting $650 drivelines everytime you go out.

[Rompn]

In case you are interested, here is my (dont have anymore though) front driveline angle with SOA and 2~3" lift springs and a 12* rotated center section. Trust me, this is the way to go. It doesnt interfere with steering geometry either like degree shims do.

This pinion is sitting at about the same height (relative to axle center line) as a HP D60 yet the yoke is pointed up instead of back like a HP axle...

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y130/dmntxn77/75%20Chief/1%20ton%20swap/D60%20Front/RotatedPinon3.jpg
Just curious if these were 2" - 3" Chevy lift springs or were they a sprung under lift spring? Reason I ask is because I'm going to be running 4" Skyjacker springs for a FSJ (so sprung under springs) with my SOA which nets more lift when used in a SOA configuration. Also, did you rotate your pinion 12* and call it good or did you check your caster to see where that put you? Thanks.

[j20brett]

Just curious if these were 2" - 3" Chevy lift springs or were they a sprung under lift spring? Reason I ask is because I'm going to be running 4" Skyjacker springs for a FSJ (so sprung under springs) with my SOA which nets more lift when used in a SOA configuration. Also, did you rotate your pinion 12* and call it good or did you check your caster to see where that put you? Thanks.

He turned the pinion to where he wanted it, then adjusted the caster by rotating the inner C's

[68_Gladiator]

Went to summit racing today in Georgia and got a few goodies.... to bad I forgot springs and retainers while I was there. :banghead:

I still am waiting on some crager soft 8's, the retainers, and the springs. :thumbsup:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4851617337_9e04cffea4.jpg


which cam did you go with?

[Rompn]

He turned the pinion to where he wanted it, then adjusted the caster by rotating the inner C's

Ok thanks. I was wondering if he did the inner C rotation as well or just rotated the pinion up.

[Dmntxn77]

Ok thanks. I was wondering if he did the inner C rotation as well or just rotated the pinion up.

Its wasnt an inner C rotation "as well", it was ONLY... IIRC, the most that Ive ever rotated perches or used shims to rotate the axle was about 3*. For me, anything more makes driving feel unsafe (and probably is).

Regarding my springs, they are 2" Jeep lift springs. I had them before I did the SOA.

[holley2346]

Well the jeep has been in hibernation over the winter.... but as warmer weather comes look for some updates....

1) Replace Broken 6" springs with new 2" lift springs
2) Re - Work the front driveshaft and balance the rear
3) Install new cable on winch
4) Install my camshaft
5) Spool the rear
6) Install my hydraulic steering


Since I have gotten the driveline where I want it for the most part.... besides the engine / tranny I am going to start working on the inside of the truck. :thumbsup:

One of my favorite pics for inspiration -

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4106/5034432077_f4093a988a.jpg

[Elliott]

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs413.ash2/69174_1213080142741_1700928838_406432_7167267_n.jp g


Nice work putting those ground huggers to shame! :thumbsup:

I'd send this pic to High Angle and say "high what? Advertise this..." :p

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4151/5087761289_ee70540213.jpg

[holley2346]

Since it's warming up I decided to drop the motor and do a full rebuild... I want to build something that has the ability to get nasty....

can anyone reccommend a good cam? I have one with these specs, will it be fine?

RPM range: 1,500-5,500 rpm
Duration @ .050" lift: 218/218 (int/exh)
Valve lift with 1.6 rockers: .456/.456 (int/exh) Comp Cams 10-202-4 • Ideal for high performance street applications
• Works well with 10:1 compression or less
• Delivers more power with less affect on idle
• Does not affect engine vacuum
• Works with stock intake and exhaust
This will be used with my performer intake and 650 edelbrock 4 bbl carb with mallory ignition

got the motor out today

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_77fcoLS-EZg/TXbZ8CON_FI/AAAAAAAAAKc/u2RWPXbA2mg/s640/2011-03-08%2018.57.55.jpg

[Josh D]

Thats the cam I'm running and I've been really happy with it.

[holley2346]

Thats the cam I'm running and I've been really happy with it.
:thumbsup:

Does the power drop off in the higher rpm range much?

And how lopey does the exaust sound?

[Josh D]

:thumbsup:

Does the power drop off in the higher rpm range much?

And how lopey does the exaust sound?

It's still pulling real hard up until the tranny gov shifts at 5200. It's got a lot more but I won't realize it until I put a shift kit and different weights in the govenor. It barks the tires pretty hard at the 1-2 shift though.

Idle is nice with some lope. I get a lot of compliments on the sound.

[holley2346]

It's still pulling real hard up until the tranny gov shifts at 5200. It's got a lot more but I won't realize it until I put a shift kit and different weights in the govenor. It barks the tires pretty hard at the 1-2 shift though.

Idle is nice with some lope. I get a lot of compliments on the sound.

That's good to hear... I want to be able to smoke these 38's :D

I got the engine down to the bare block... broke a stud off in the timing cover / oil pump housing so it looks like I'll be adding that to the upgrade list. The motor really is in good shape for running with 2 lbs of oil pressure for over a year. :thumbsup:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_77fcoLS-EZg/TXhIOIoF9MI/AAAAAAAAAK4/YnMLY_WQ4LE/s640/2011-03-09%2017.54.39.jpg

[holley2346]

Slowly but surely getting her ready to go again. Getting the motor back together... should have it going by next weekend.

Ordered some headers with thicker flanges, and a few other things for the motor. Also found some used stock height j20 springs off of ebay.


You can tell it's been sittin for a while since I've gotten it back from the machine shop.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Qml4HcdwNuc/TfVMn8grPcI/AAAAAAAAARY/27C3owWdyws/s640/2011-06-08%25252016.15.17.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-T4BISanIB24/TfVNWKZG9dI/AAAAAAAAARs/2m0u9dMcIa0/s640/2011-06-11%25252015.38.29.jpg

Ready to hear that cam :)

[blake5179]

Did you get the engine put back together? Put the new springs on it?
Cool truck and fun build thread to read.
Boggers aren't real useful around here but they sure look mean on your J truck!

[holley2346]

Did you get the engine put back together? Put the new springs on it?
Cool truck and fun build thread to read.
Boggers aren't real useful around here but they sure look mean on your J truck!

I got the engine put back in it and it runs great. I love the cam, pulls real nicely and can easily break traction with the tires on wet pavement.
Appreciate the compliments, and I agree the boggers do look good on it.

The jeep ran me over about a month ago, luckily it didn't do any internal damage.... I've been driving it a good bit now though and really enjoy it. I wish there was a complete kit for replacing the whole wiring harness and gauges instead of piecing something together as none of my factory gauges work. Blinkers and brake lights are a little iffy.

My last addition to the drive train will likely be one of these,

http://www.dyersblowers.com/mediac/400_0/media/DIR_83/blowerkit-671-bbc-hd-pol-1.jpg

Dyers blowers makes a manifold and everything to put a blower on the 360 which will give me the extra umph I want.... I didn't want to go the nitrous route.

After I finish that up I'll get the interior in better shape and turn this into more of a full restoration for the body / interior and try to keep it out of the mud. :thumbsup:

[blake5179]

The jeep ran me over about a month ago, luckily it didn't do any internal damage....


There has to be more to that story.

[holley2346]

There has to be more to that story.
Truck stopped running going down the road, so I pulled into an old mans yard and popped the hood open. I was on a slight incline so I left the truck in gear. I left the ignition on and noticed the electric fuel pump was not running. Ripped the wire off of the starting solonoid and put it on the positive battery terminal, pump starting running. So the plan was to wrap it around the hot starter solonoid post the wire was stripped so long it jumped over to the starter post. I was standing on the tire leaning into the hood and with the truck in gear, ignition switch on, and me accidentally jumping a wire over to the starter the truck fired right up and threw me in front of it. Wasn't enough time to get out of the way, but after the front tire got me I chased it down and kept it from going down in the woods.



:thumbsup:

[fyr jpr]

Holy crap, I almost pee'd my pants reading the last post

[twisted frame]

Holy crap. Good to hear you're ok!

[Kuraki]

:eek:

:thumbsup: on chasing it down instead of wallowing around grumbling about petty crush wounds :cool:

[rocklaurence]

Thank God for soft ground! I know a guy that ran himself over by starting his Cj from the outside with it in gear. It broke his feemer and he was out a couple of months. Its scary because I often do the same thing-not running myself over but starting it from the out side.;)

[taylorjones]

Haha you must admit that's pretty awesome. I keep thinking, only an FSJ'er would just pop up and chase her down without hesitation.

I swear these Jeeps are always out to kill us :)

[JeepsAndGuns]

I definately wanna see this thing when you put that on there :thumbsup:

I got the engine put back in it and it runs great. I love the cam, pulls real nicely and can easily break traction with the tires on wet pavement.
Appreciate the compliments, and I agree the boggers do look good on it.

The jeep ran me over about a month ago, luckily it didn't do any internal damage.... I've been driving it a good bit now though and really enjoy it. I wish there was a complete kit for replacing the whole wiring harness and gauges instead of piecing something together as none of my factory gauges work. Blinkers and brake lights are a little iffy.

My last addition to the drive train will likely be one of these,

http://www.dyersblowers.com/mediac/400_0/media/DIR_83/blowerkit-671-bbc-hd-pol-1.jpg

Dyers blowers makes a manifold and everything to put a blower on the 360 which will give me the extra umph I want.... I didn't want to go the nitrous route.

After I finish that up I'll get the interior in better shape and turn this into more of a full restoration for the body / interior and try to keep it out of the mud. :thumbsup:

[holley2346]

Just was reading this thing over again page by page, really is interesting to see the progress like this. Helps you remember some things you may have forgotten about too!

Thanks everyone for the kind words, it wasn't that bad but only because I got lucky.

Really wishing it would have been on video because I find humor in my reaction to chase the truck down as well.

I also realized I never updated about adding hydro assist steering.... I don't have any pictures, but will take some. The spool in the front was entirely too stressful on the rag joint so I went ahead and added a ram. It works great, turns with one finger.

The blower will have to wait for a bit, my other not so offroad-ish project got the forced induction :)

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PeoikL_hE-k/TrsVJGsSH9I/AAAAAAAAASM/w1QGdr0VwUI/s720/photo.JPG

On another note the truck did well at the bog yesterday. I haven't had this thing in 4 wheel low since I was on 33's. The body lift wouldn't allow my "U" shifter over far enough to get past 4 wheel high. To fix the issue I bought jb fab twin sticks (haven't arrived yet). I am also finally starting to fix up the inside of the cab since I've gotten the driveline like I want it.... I spent a few hours removing all the mud and cleaning the axles, the whole time thinking about how good these trucks already look but how much better it would look with some paint and nice interior.

As always, comments / thoughts appreciated.

And thanks IFSJA and it's members for all the great information, and a easy going place to share ideas / show pictures / ask questions.

[holley2346]

I didn't take any pictures at the bog yesterday, but I found these on the internet.... at least someone took a couple. No action shots though. :(

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FVqlqNBqunk/TsBWdwGxMJI/AAAAAAAAAYo/OTNJj-RBCrk/s404/jeep%2525202.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-osA3l37yTr4/TsBWeNWZirI/AAAAAAAAAYw/TdydjvMsorQ/s604/jeep%2525203.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iTK_CJUzgJE/TsBWe-g6lJI/AAAAAAAAAY4/WP5Zd_Jd39M/s604/jeep.jpg

:fsj:

[JeepsAndGuns]

So was it a event somewhere or just you and some friends getting together?
My cherokee is mostly stock with almost worn out tires, but I would at least come up and watch. Le me know next time and I will drive on up there.

[247pia]

Did you do a cut and turn on your front axle? I did a write up on that some where in here.

[holley2346]

So was it a event somewhere or just you and some friends getting together?
My cherokee is mostly stock with almost worn out tires, but I would at least come up and watch. Le me know next time and I will drive on up there.

It was the first time I had been to this bog, over 100 people showed up (quite small in my opinion) not something I'd drive from Cullman to go to. But if I can remember I'll let you know in the spring when extreme mudsports opens back up. Colt ford has played there a few times and it's at least a thousand people out there when he comes to town. They only have about an acre of mud, but it's pretty fun. They have some moderate hills as well, as well as some rocks.

Just saying.... mostly stock is a better in my opinion. After everything I've done to the truck I think I had more fun when it was stock axles, no lift, 33's and the petal to the floor. It was more of a struggle but it could just about go through anything the big guys went through. It was a lot funner on hills too. The main thing was knowing that you hadn't spend as much as what a new car cost and you weren't worried as much about breaking things since you hadn't already spent money on axles, driveshafts, etc.

I'm sure you know of grey rock since it's closer to you, that's my next objective. Rock climbing tends to require more skill than just putting it in a hole and slinging mud around. I am going to try grey rock out next year though. http://www.grayrockorv.com/

They have trails you can have fun on stock, all the way to extremely stupid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WciZmxcFAQY&feature=relmfu

They don't have next years schedules up, but this is extreme mud sports site.

http://www.extrememudsports.com/

Let me know what you think.

[holley2346]

Did you do a cut and turn on your front axle? I did a write up on that some where in here.

I did not, seems like it's not as easy as it sounds. My drivline angles ended up alright after going back to stock j20 springs on top of the d60, just a little vibration in 4wd.

You can provide a link though, and I'll check it out. :thumbsup:

[247pia]

Here is the link where I cut and turned the knuckles, I forgot to bring my camera to my friends house where I did this but the first post I tell what I did and there are pictures of the after math.


http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=135140&highlight=finally


In response to your above post, does it just feel that your truck is too big now?

[holley2346]

Here is the link where I cut and turned the knuckles, I forgot to bring my camera to my friends house where I did this but the first post I tell what I did and there are pictures of the after math.


http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=135140&highlight=finally


In response to your above post, does it just feel that your truck is too big now?
Thanks for the link.... I don't see myself changing much in the driveline unless I start having some major issues, but I'm glad to have a definite method to turn the axle now.

I don't feel that the truck is too big, it's exactly the way I wanted it from the day I drug it out of the ware house. It is exactly the end result I had hoped for.... I just feel that I had more fun in it with less worry when it was stock with 33's. I've learned a TON doing this project and would change my method 100% (would have done a 4.8 fuel injected swap for fuel economy and added a turbo for power on demand like I did to my other truck / would have went rockwells with a 4 link / 44's with full hydro steering / skipped the 10 different suspension setups I tried / skipped the sets and sets of bent springs / forgot about keeping it a true jeep with an amc heart)

All in all I am happy how the truck has turned out so far, and it does great off roading, in the mud, climbing, as well as driving down the road smoother as butter (even with boggers). But I could have made it a bigger / more capable truck with an automatic transmission, fuel injected reliable motor with more power and better mpg, stronger axles, bigger tires to displace more mud. And I could have done all this spending a lot less money than what I have spent on the current setup.

My problem was a plan, I never had a definite plan and just kept adding and adding... if I would have realized what it would have ended up costing doing everything the way I did it I would have just bit the bullet and done it once and got finished with it.

Back to reality though, the truck is great the way it is. You don't see too many of them around these parts anymore so everyone that sees it loves it. It looks great, and is fun to hop into on a sunday and go trail riding. Once I get the interior buttoned up and some paint on her this project will be finished, and I'll be completely happy with the end result.

That's my un organized sloppy rant about the truck.... just reflecting back and explaining what I would do if I knew then what I knew now.

Still love my dang ol mud light. If anything It'll stick with me through thick and thin. :thumbsup: :fsj:


I've done this along the way a few times... a to do list. Here is the list as it stands now.

Twin Sticks - Ordered
Get the seat redone - Calling him next week
Order the full replacement vinyl mat from bj's
Get the stock cluster working and do away with my autometer gauges
Make the diamond plate door panels
Make a new headliner
Fab up a front bumper around the existing winch plate
Get the marker lights working and figure out my electrical demon in the tail lights / turn signals
Fix the rust in the body and throw some new orange paint and clear on

I guess that's the order from most to least important as of now, and will likely be the order the work will be done in. I want to keep the tail gate but I think it would be more work than it's worth, so I may end up with one of those nets on the back.

Getting closer and closer to the finished product. Baby steps :)

[JeepsAndGuns]

I have heard of gray rock, but never been.
Have you ever been to stony lonesome? Its closer to me than gray rock. Its in the dodge city/bremen area on hwy 69. Really easy to find. I went there a couple years ago, but havent had the chance to go back. Mainly because I dont want to wheel alone.

[holley2346]

Thanks for showing me that! I may try to get my dad to bring his rubicon and go up within a couple of weeks! Looks like it would be a ton of fun!

[holley2346]

I have heard of gray rock, but never been.
Have you ever been to stony lonesome? Its closer to me than gray rock. Its in the dodge city/bremen area on hwy 69. Really easy to find. I went there a couple years ago, but havent had the chance to go back. Mainly because I dont want to wheel alone.

Are all of the trails on the map navigatable by a full size vehicle? If so I may have to get a cabin and spend a weekend up there. It looks nice! :fsj:

[JeepsAndGuns]

They have some trails for atv's/dirtbikes, and then regular ones for 4x4's.
When I went a couple years ago I was in my cherokee, stock height and 31's..lol
All their trails are labeled as easy, med, and hard. So you know where and where not to drive your vehicles.
If you let me know at least a week in advance, I would drive out there and go with ya. Heck, we could even post it up here and see if any other members want to join.

[holley2346]

They have some trails for atv's/dirtbikes, and then regular ones for 4x4's.
When I went a couple years ago I was in my cherokee, stock height and 31's..lol
All their trails are labeled as easy, med, and hard. So you know where and where not to drive your vehicles.
If you let me know at least a week in advance, I would drive out there and go with ya. Heck, we could even post it up here and see if any other members want to join.

thats what i would like to do. I really want to go next weekend but am trying to see if everything will work out.

[holley2346]

They have some trails for atv's/dirtbikes, and then regular ones for 4x4's.
When I went a couple years ago I was in my cherokee, stock height and 31's..lol
All their trails are labeled as easy, med, and hard. So you know where and where not to drive your vehicles.
If you let me know at least a week in advance, I would drive out there and go with ya. Heck, we could even post it up here and see if any other members want to join.

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=148605

[Rompn]

So what was/is your current setup from the mud bog photos? Still running 6" springs with an SOA or the stock J20 springs? Still have the 1" longer shackle up front as well? What about the setup out back? Trying to finalize a few options since I will be running the same tire size on a wide trac Cherokee and am not looking to cut much if anything. Thanks.

[holley2346]

So what was/is your current setup from the mud bog photos? Still running 6" springs with an SOA or the stock J20 springs? Still have the 1" longer shackle up front as well? What about the setup out back? Trying to finalize a few options since I will be running the same tire size on a wide trac Cherokee and am not looking to cut much if anything. Thanks.

Right now I'm stock j20 springs / stock shackle / soa front. Shackle Flip / 2" AAL / 3" Block Rear.

I don't know if these "stock j20 springs" had anything done to them or if they are just stiffer and a little taller than my old j10 springs, but the truck still sits up plenty high, and I don't feel that I lost 6 inches by removing the lift springs..... more like 3 or so. :thumbsup:

[Rompn]

Right now I'm stock j20 springs / stock shackle / soa front. Shackle Flip / 2" AAL / 3" Block Rear.

I don't know if these "stock j20 springs" had anything done to them or if they are just stiffer and a little taller than my old j10 springs, but the truck still sits up plenty high, and I don't feel that I lost 6 inches by removing the lift springs..... more like 3 or so. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the info. Ya, the front definitely looks higher than just a standard SOA on stock springs. Do you rub at front or rear?

[holley2346]

Thanks for the info. Ya, the front definitely looks higher than just a standard SOA on stock springs. Do you rub at front or rear? i dont rub at all