Por 15 paint

[FleXXedOUT88]

hey im lookin to paint my floor pans in my waggy with this stuff and i cant find any1 who carries it locally. so im gonna order it online but they offer jsut the paint and they offer kits that have metal pre and cleaning stuff do u have to have the kit ot make the paint stick properly? or can i jsut purchase the paint adn roll it on?

[Elliott]

The tie coat is to allow top coats other than POR 15. The way around that is to spray the top coat on before the POR 15 dries... something I don't recommend personally. It's going to screw up the POR 15 properties that make it endure. I would follow the directions precisely. I did and very satisfied with the results even when the paint was not topcoated and left exposed to what ever amount of sun you can be exposed to in Alaska for five years. (not a whole lot) If you are doing floor pans you don't need to top coat it.

[FleXXedOUT88]

so i can just get a quart of just the paint and go to town?

[Elliott]

You can but I'd prolly use the Marine Clean first, wire brush, then marine clean.... or just knock the heavier rust off with the wire brush and then marine clean, dry and paint.

Get the solvent too... not that you will be able or want clean up any tools that you use... but if you get any of that on you it's the ONLY thing that will remove it.

[asphaltrockdweller]

Also you will probably need more than just ONE quart?

[threepiece188]

The tie coat is to allow top coats other than POR 15. The way around that is to spray the top coat on before the POR 15 dries... something I don't recommend personally. It's going to screw up the POR 15 properties that make it endure. I would follow the directions precisely. I did and very satisfied with the results even when the paint was not topcoated and left exposed to what ever amount of sun you can be exposed to in Alaska for five years. (not a whole lot) If you are doing floor pans you don't need to top coat it.
Elliot,
I think you may have misunderstood the question. He seems to be asking if the metal prep is required for the POR15 to bond properly to the metal surface, not if it can be topcoated after it's application.
I would not apply POR15 to any metal surface without proper preparation. I have both seen and heard of POR15 letting go of surfaces that were not prepaired properly. It seems to work very well if used according to the instructions.
Dan

[JERSEY JOE]

I think that POR 15 has a hard time adhering to clean bare metal vs. rust. Apparently it needs the rust to work, or so I am tol. I have used this stuff for a long time and have been happy with the results but it has it's quirks.

1. Use the base coat POR lke a primer and DO NOT allow more than 72 hours bewteen coats,

2. Use the POR top coat ( like chassis black ) to protect against the UV damage within the same 72 hours.

3. If you allow more tha 72 hours there is no chemical bond between the coats and the durability is reduced.

4. WEAR GLOVES since cured POR on skin has to be cut off or sanded off.

5. Make sure you buy the solvent and clean the can well before you put the lid on or you will not get the lid off the next time. I have thrown out more POR 15 than I think I have used by being careless about cleaning the can.

6. If you are just going to use the POR 15 base, the you need to top coat it with the TIE Coat primer, again within 72 hours, then you can sand it and used standard automotive refinishing paint.

[mathman]

It seems to work very well if used according to the instructions.

Very true. And it should be kept in mind that POR15 is UV sensitive and will discolor when exposed to sunlight after a period of time. POR is very clear on that fact. If using their chassis coat topcoat they're not very forthcoming in that it oxidizes quickly - used that on my 1950 Willys frame and it was so bad after a year I had to re-coat it with something else. I still think the whole POR stuff is more expensive than it's worth and I won't be using it again.