carb spacer for Edelbrock with Edelbrock air cleaner

[Fireman]

What size spacer are you guys running with the Edelbrock manifold, carb, air breather set-up? I have a 1/2" spacer on right now and the wing nut on top of the Edelbrock air breather hits the hood when I try to close it. I don't want to go back to the stock cleaner so I thought I would ask the experts for advice. Thanks in advance for all advice and suggestions. :confused:

[Ralph]

I know insulative spacers are a really cool idea, but it's not really necessary for a street vehicle. There's still plenty of heat conducted by the carb studs anyway. My advice would be that you simply remove the spacer and use a regular gasket.

[onitsside]

i dont use the spacer and i run great. also i ended up getting a new threaded rod and using a hacksaw to cut it to the proper length.

[Fireman]

Thanks guys, but here in Texas it get pretty hot in the summer so using the insulating spacer helps alot.Onitsside I have already cut the stud down flush with the top of the wingnut, but thanks for the suggestion.

[Michael]

Fireman we have obviously talked allready but for the record. I used a 1" spacer.... and I know have very little vapor lock. I did in August and it was 100 deg with 70% humidity. It went away almost instantly.

[xtapa]

I don't know how you guys get a spacer in there. I bought a nice 1" plastic spacer in anticipation of all those good things that were supposed to come by using it when I put the Edlebrock intake and carb on mine. BUT, my hood barely clears the stock air cleaner without the spacer. Too much hot air in the engine (or the passenger compartment)?
Dave

[Iron Horse]

Space is pretty tight under hood with a stock setup, so if your body bushings are shot, it will severly limit what you can fit under the hood. A body lift will help with even more space available....a 3" body lift = 3" more space on top of the engine.

[Sgt. Dave]

Fireman,
you might want to consider a flat heat shield instead of a spacer if clearance is a concern. Also, you probably are using a 3" filter element. A 2" will work and not be restrictive enough that you would ever notice.
If vapor lock is a problem, the actual cure is to put an electric pump back by the tank, and let it feed the mechanical pump. Then get a ford power steering cooler, and mount it forward of the radiator suport. Run the fuel line from the mechanical pump through the cooler, then to the fuel filter and on to the carb.
Vapor lock solved under any condition or altitude.
Don't forget to put an in-line filter between the fuel tank and the electric pump.

[onitsside]

how about flipping over the stock cover. i havent looked lately but i remember being able to turn over the cover and it sits a little lower. maybe that coupled with the 2 inch filter would get what you need.

[Fireman]

Thanks for all the advice guys. Sgt. Dave what Ford vehicle has the power steering cooler? Also I have heard that you can blow the diapragm in the mechanical pump by running an electric pump in series with it.Have you had any problems with this or there something you can do to prevent it when running this setup?

[Sgt. Dave]

Just about all full size passenger cars, any police package car & most heavy duty trucks will have it. Just a 'U" shaped cooler in the line, usually bolted to the radiator support.

A universal type pump for a carburated engine is all you need. Should be 5-7 psi. The mechanicalfuel pump has a check valve in it also.
Don't use a high pressure pump or F.I. pump, they are 12-50 psi!

[Fireman]

Thanks Sgt. Dave.

[Lugnut]

I've been trying different things on my CJ to get rid of the vapor lock and it's still there. I can have a vapor lock and the float bowls feel really not much more than warm to the touch.
I have an aftermarket intake without the exhaust heat passage, so that's not a factor.
I really feel that the coolant is not circulating thru the engine fast enough, getting it back to the rad., to keep the engine cool. I think the radiator is adequate if I can get the coolant back to the radiator within a reasonable time. If I have the vapor lock problem this summer (prob. will), I'm gonna install one of the FLOWKOOLER water pumps unless someone here tells me they don't do much good. So guys, let me know if you've used this pump and what was your impression? Was your reason for installing it a vapor lock problem? If so, did it remedy it?

[Michael]

Great info Sgt Dave. Fireman....let me know if you do that. I may be interested as well. That is great....

[Lindel]

Fireman, on the spacer, I'm running a 1/2" phenolic, and am using the K & N air filter for a Dodge Dakota. I just used a about a 6" piece of 1/4" all thread, and a fiber type lock nut, and cut off about 3/8" of excess all thread. I tightened it down good, before I cut it.

I've got about 1/4 to 1/2" of hood clearance, but it doesn't touch, even under heavy acceleration.

Works much nice than the Edelbrock Pro Flow I had the last time you saw the rig.

The breather tube from the oil filler is coming off the air cleaner, and I had to position it so that it's on the front side of the carb.

[Fireman]

Thanks for all the input guys. It turns out that the fancy chrome filter on the oil fill tube is what is hitting, not the air filter.After the front end and hood were bolted back on securely everything fit, just barely. The oil fill filter touches the hood but the hood will close.

[2j20's]

how dose the tube get higher the the carb :confused: take the tube out and cut 1in off