Master Cylinder rebuild kits

[JeepMods]

So, I have been looking around the local scene/stores for a master cylinder rebuild kit for the waggy so far, no luck. I can't find anything and the internet searches haven't been to friendly as well...
The people are the parts store tend to give me that deer in the headlight stare and then look at their comrades in a state of confusion followed with... "I don't think they make those kits, what we can do is pull a new one off of the shelf and it'll only run you $55.95 + core ($5.00)"...
Does anybody know of a rebuild kit for the Wags MC?

[Headhoncho]

I don't know how hard it is to rebuild a master cylinder but if it's anything like dual piston calipers, I'll pass. I'll leave it to the pro's and get a guaranteed unit. I would check Napa and even then I'm sure it has to be special ordered if it's even available. (the rebuild kit)


JR

[CHICOWAGGY]

What year is your Waggy? Autozone has one for my 90 for $25.99. You can also get the whole reman master for 25.99 or a brand new master for 59.99. There not too hard to rebuild, but for the price you're better of just buying a new one.

[JeepMods]

My Wag is an 82... on the bottom of the MC the casting numbers are 4 13 82
18006061 then on the aft most portion of the bottom side there is HK2

I know $55-$60 isn't much but if I can find a rebuild kit for a 1/3 of the price I'm all about it. The internals look good, the bore etc...

The problem that I was having was the pedal would go straight to the floor, I checked the vacuum all was good at the booster... the front left side looked wet but I think that's from the axle etc. (I'll pull and check to be sure)... while removing the grill for the eng/trans/t-case swap I noticed that the front brake line was pinched (looks to be completely flat) on the front cross/support.
I'm wondering if this would cause the pedal to go to the floor?... I'm thinking this is part of the problem but my main focus is on the master cylinder and most likely the o-rings etc.

Any other thoughts/opinions?

[Elliott]

That flattened brake line wouldn't cause the MC to go to the floor but it also needs replaced. You can get a MC rebuild kit for ~$23. at www.rockauto.com (http://www.rockauto.com)

[CHICOWAGGY]

You can usually find a reman M/C for the same price as a kit.

[talntar]

just buy the reman.
the zone has a reman for 25 +8 core.
the kit is 26.no brainer to me.
svae a buck and time.

[starlifter]

I just went thru a similar situation on an F-250. The rebuilt (Ford) M/C was $39 and in stock. The rebuild kit was $35 and had to be ordered. I got the rebuilt M/C took the guts out and put in my M/C as I knew mine was original with the truck and the casting and threaded ports were in better condition. With that being said I believe it is just easier/cheaper for parts distributors to deal with the rebuilt part. A pack of O-Rings and other small rebuilt parts are probably easier to loose track of plus there could be shelf life issues. In addition, the flow of these parts keeps someone employed although I wouldn't want to be the one rebuilding M/Cs all day long.
So if you like your original M/C swap out the internals with a rebuilt unit:)

[CHICOWAGGY]

When you rebuild a master cylinder you need to hone it out, you just shouldn't put a kit or the parts from a reman M/C in it. I know someones gonna say I did and it worked fine, but thats not how its supposed to be done. Bench bleed and put the reman on and you should be ok.

[starlifter]

When you rebuild a master cylinder you need to hone it out, you just shouldn't put a kit or the parts from a reman M/C in it. I know someones gonna say I did and it worked fine, but thats not how its supposed to be done. Bench bleed and put the reman on and you should be ok.

Correct I forgot to mention I did that step.:eek:

[csa000]

My Wag is an 82... on the bottom of the MC the casting numbers are 4 13 82
18006061 then on the aft most portion of the bottom side there is HK2

I know $55-$60 isn't much but if I can find a rebuild kit for a 1/3 of the price I'm all about it. The internals look good, the bore etc...

The problem that I was having was the pedal would go straight to the floor, I checked the vacuum all was good at the booster... the front left side looked wet but I think that's from the axle etc. (I'll pull and check to be sure)... while removing the grill for the eng/trans/t-case swap I noticed that the front brake line was pinched (looks to be completely flat) on the front cross/support.
I'm wondering if this would cause the pedal to go to the floor?... I'm thinking this is part of the problem but my main focus is on the master cylinder and most likely the o-rings etc

Any other thoughts/opinions?

Front caliper. If you pull your wheel and the caliper is dry and none of the other wheels are wet then I would go for the master cylinder. My .02 cents.

[Elliott]

When you rebuild a master cylinder you need to hone it out, you just shouldn't put a kit or the parts from a reman M/C in it. I know someones gonna say I did and it worked fine, but thats not how its supposed to be done. Bench bleed and put the reman on and you should be ok.

That's a so so idea. I don't think you do that on aluminum MCs because you have no pitting. On an iron MC, or caliper that is one method but anytime you oversize the bore... guess what, your seals aren't designed for oversize. For the same reason, many reman hydroboost fail when put back in service. Now if you buy a reman, check out who is doing the work. Fenco gets distributed by Autozone and they sleeve the bores, they are a Canadian compay so support our neighbors doing a great job. :thumbsup:

[JeepMods]

Went to Napa and purchased the reman MC... like stated above there's no-sense in spending money for a rebuild kit when I can purchase a reman MC for the same price.
I did check the bore and all was good. I also wouldn't hone it due to the very thing that Elliott mentioned.
I did find/realize that the MC wasn't bad. So, I cleaned it up, replaced the o-rings, put it back together, pushed the rear plunger forward and tossed some air into it... which pushed the plunger back. (I always gotta play with things, especially if I take it apart and put it back together)... it's to help with my slooooow learning process ;) :rolleyes: .

[CHICOWAGGY]

Come to think of it I never honed an aluminum M/C. On a cast iron M/C if you have to hone it so much that it its too big for the rebuild kit, I wouldn't rebuild it. The reason you hone it is so the seals seat properly.

[710 Burner]

That flattened brake line wouldn't cause the MC to go to the floor but it also needs replaced. You can get a MC rebuild kit for ~$23. at www.rockauto.com (http://www.rockauto.com)
It would if it were punctured in the process of being flattened. Well, It should not go to the floor completely, but it could if other conditions existed.