skid plate removal

[Evan Atherton]

Is there anyone out there in Jeep land that can offer somr tips?
I have a 1991 Grand Wagoneer that has a very badly rusted skid plate. I have recently purchased a used one that is in good shape. My problem is that there seem to be bolts that have a nut screwed on that is located in the actual chasis beam. My manuals seem to think this a relatively easy proposition on removing the skid plate. From underneath of my car it does not look easy. Can anyone help me on this matter?
Thanks Evan Atherton

[Evan Atherton]

additional info,
In order to get the plate disconnected I would need to hold the top of the bolt. From my perspective from underneath the car there doesn't seem to be a way to do this easily.
Thanks

[Crazy_Jeepman]

Most likely need to cut the bolts off. You will also need to get in Cargo area and pull access cover off and disconect the fuel lines and gas gauge wiring. It is not to bad of a job, but if the bolts spin the nuts then it gets interesting.

[andy d]

it isnt easy. itsa PITA. make sure there is a minimum of gas in the tank. find the access plate under the rear seat and drill out the rivets. once it is off, undo the fuel and return lines and the sending unit wires. undo the side piece of the skidplate to expose the clamps on the filler hose. put a floor jack under the s/p then un bolt the straps in board and the s/p out board. lower the jack just enough to reach the top of the tank to free the vent lines pressed into the top of the tank. the rear inboard strap is hard. the nut has to be held.iirc , i used a 7/16 box end to hold the nut. i recommend replacing the straps and the rear brake line while the tank is out. dont be surprised if the lower flange of the frame comes out with the s/p

[kong]

A lota bolts that simply spin aren't the ones that have to come out. That may sound silly, but if your skid plate is as rusty as it seems to be, the mail bolts are:

1. the bolts attached to the frame (minus the triangle piece under the rear wheel. Those are the ones that simply spin). But you do have to do the backside of the triangle, but not the bottom.
2. two bolts next to the filler tubes
3. two bolts just around the corner and close to the center of the body.
4. one bolt on the top side of the frame toward the front (this one is a tuffy, I voted to buy a gearwrench for this one. Prolly saved me a hour).

Make sure you keep that thing suspended well, as well as detatch the vent and fuel lines before dropping it mor e than a couple of inches.

Like I said, if it is spinning, chances are, you don't have to take it off.

Good Luck,
Kong
81Wag401-727-219
lots of mods including a nice herculined skid plate :D

[Evan Atherton]

It seems that from the consensus of opinion that tha skid plate is not just a cover for the gas tank that simply unbolts from around the gas tank. I guess I don't see why all the hoses and such have to come off. Any other advice?

[Crazy_Jeepman]

When you pull the skid plate the Tank comes down with it. Tank Straps strap the tank to the BOTTOM of skid plate.

[M/Z]

Interestingly, my tank is held in place with straps independent of the skid plate. My skid plate in currently off the vehicle but the tank is in place and working.

[Crazy_Jeepman]

Pre 80 Tanks and skid plates are indepenent of each other. This was changed when it went to a plastic gas tank and was set in a steel box then bolted up in place.