Ignition Warning !!!

[kyjman]

Hey all,

If you find yourself having to turn the key further to the front to make contact for the starter to engage then get ready for a broken accuator rod. I just went through that last week. For the past several months it took more pressure to engage the starter with the key and last Wednesday the rod let go and stranded me. I used the relay to drive it home and have just finished swapping steering columns to fix the problem. The "new" column is working fine. Just some words of advise if your ignition is getting that way.

[BostonWagoneer]

Thanks for the heads-up.

So what preventive measures do you suggest for people that experience this having to push harder on the key situtation?

[kyjman]

I think I'd be looking for a donor vehicle to swap out the steering columns with. Unless you want to tear your existing column apart and try and replace the rod. I swapped the columns out because I had one available to me and it seemed easier to do.

[coolram]

Thankyou kyj for the tip.Did you have a problem with turning the key back to accsy'?

[viscacha]

I know how it feels to turn that key and immediately know that the ignition switch linkage is going to break and I am going to be stranded.

I have three jeeps and two out of three ignition switch linkage assemblies broke and stranded me. Luckily when the third jeep’s linkage was about to break, I already knew from the telltale signs and previous experience what was about to happen and got myself out of the jam. Below explains how to get that last start or how to increase longevity.

The first sign is what has been mentioned above. “More pressure to engage the starter with the key”. Another sign might be a lot of play in the ignition key positions. A really bad sign is trouble positioning the ignition key to the acc position. Usually when all of these telltale signs are present there will be a certain spot after starting the vehicle where your ignition key will position and will cause the radio/acc to go off and your temp gauge will be shorted and the needle will be pegged toward the hot side.

I believe that the biggest cause of the problem is in the position of the steering wheel (if you have tilt steering.) Anything other than the steering wheel positioned straight out will put some extra resistance against the linkage assembly. The remedy for longer life of the linkage is to position the steering wheel straight before starting. This has worked for me although I rarely do that. My steering wheel is all the way up at all times.

The next problem is the radial position of the steering wheel. If the steering wheel is rotated left or right to a locked position, then it’s going to put more resistance against the linkage assembly. The remedy for longer life of the linkage is to rotate the steering wheel back and forth slightly to find the “sweet” spot while putting a little bit of pressure on the key before starting. When you find that sweet spot the key will just ooze into position.

Finally, I would replace the ignition key and the linkage every 120,000 miles. That’s when every one of mine broke. The assemblies were completely heat rotted and no amount of TLC would do. :cool:

[Dan G]

I noticed some of the symptoms you describe above, however mine were related to the 'play' in the steering wheel that is as a result of the reverse torx bolts.

Since I tightened them up, I've had no other symptoms.

Ok, this makes for a great DSPO move, but couldn't you just wire in a push button starter like on the 1950's vintage cars, you'd still use the key to get to the on position, or is that part of the problem as well?

I actually just had a similar thing happen to my wife's van - actually, the back end of the lock cylinder broke (JB Weld to the rescue - but that's for another current thread).

[kyjman]

I kind of thought this would be a common problem mostly with the tilt wheels I guess. I had no trouble getting the key to turn back or out of the key lock. It just took more pressur to engage the starter, and then snap. I think holding the wheel straight on in the mid-tilt will help delay the breaking of the rod.

[Merc69]

This happened to me in a 1997 XJ. It only cost $200.00 for a used collum and they only took out the relay rod and put it into my ignition. It only took a week and two different columns to get it right. I have the 87 Wag still in the build up but may take a look and see if I can prevent this from happening here. Thanks for the heads up It just seems strange Jeep has the same problem years later.

P.S. The dealer wanted $600.00 for a new column. I am in the wrong line of work smile.gif

[kyjman]

BTT

I think its important.

[Mud Thrasher]

This sounds more like a problem of the ign. switch at the base of the steering column. All it is is a switch that the acuator rod moves allowing current to flow thru in certain positions. More then likely yours was worn out and from the repeated pressure from trying to start it caused it to break. I would suggest that if it seems that it gets harder to start cause of play in the ign. switch then i would change the switch and nothing breaks.

[kyjman]

Not in the switch Mudthrasher....I had the old column apart and found the rod was broken right at the top other side from the key lock. You are right about the rod connecting to the ign switch at the base of the column. Mines just happened to break in a bad spot.

[turtlejoe]

Mine is starting to get to the point you described. What are my choices for donor columns? Are they direct swaps with no extra fiddling?

Thanks!

[kyjman]

I swapped in one from an auto/1983 J-10 with no problem only now I have two tranny's in the cab...I have'nt taken the auto shifter off the column yet. I'm taking a pic with the 2 shifters. I run a 5 speed. I'll take a pic of the piece that broke and post it...

[viscacha]

The parts that broke in mine were the rack gear and bushings(?), all nylon. The rack gear operates the linkage arm, etc. In order to replace it you have to separate the big plastic ball joint. I made a shaft puller with 6mm machine screws. That was the thread in each end of the ball joint shafts. I had the jeep dealer make a copy of the assembly for me, which helped considerably.

Side note; When this broke in my 1980 CJ5 I removed the column decorative plate and exposed the 3/16 diameter linkage arm to the ignition switch under the dash. I started the jeep by pulling up and down on the linkage arm with a pair of pliers. I drove it like that for several years and dubbed the pliers, “the ignition pliers”.

It was many years ago so I let my mechanic repair the last break and it cost $350, which was mostly labor. :cool:

[kyjman]

Here's the link to the pic of the part that broke on my column. And my new double tranny cab...
BROKEN ROD (http://fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/misc-pictures/brokenignrod.jpg)
TWO TRANNYS (http://fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/misc-pictures/twotrannyshifters.jpg)

[JeepBountyHunter]

says, error page not found for your pic links, though it goes to your website.??

[kyjman]

I'll try the pics again...
http://fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Misc-Pictures/brokenignrod.jpg

http://fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/files/Misc-Pictures/twotrannyshifters.jpg

[jeepbob]

This is not ust a problem with Jeeps but a failure in the Saginaw columns in general whether in a GM prodct or an AMC.