Getting ready to fire up the cs130 alternator, one last check

[KYJ10]

I know Joe wil chime in here. After going back and reading all the info posted from Joe and other post, I am concluding that the cs130(105amp out of a 96 grand prix) will work with just the big BAT terminal, and the "s" terminal. Will it self entergize or will I have to rev it? And if the battery drains, just add the inline diode in the "s" line? Also, hook all this up with battery cable off, and are there any procedures for hooking up the battery cable? Dennis

[Tad]

Let us know how it works Dennis.
It's a powerful Alt and an easy bolt in for us Buick 350 folks too.

[Joe Guilbeau]

The fat terminal can go to the Positive battery post for the interm to check the operation, with the BAT terminal going to the terminal where the Positive Battery Cable terminates.

You should fuse the BAT to Solenoid with a suitable fuse about $40 bucks for a fuse block and an ANL style fuse (100-amp).

One thing to note is to insure that negative battery post is disconnected from the circuit in order to install the alternator, then measure the battery voltage to insure that you have a fully charged battery.

Many CS-130's regulators will not energize the Rotor's Magnetic Field with a voltage lower that 11 Vdc.

Hook up the negative battery cable and feel the joy!

Do not believe that the diode is necessary, if the battery drains, then there is a parasitic battery drain, or the alternator needs servicing.

[LRRH]

It's a powerful Alt and an easy bolt in for us Buick 350 folks too.Tad...no need for that much power in our electricless Jeeps. =)

When mine (crappy Motorola) kicked I got an 83amp one for a 79 AMX which bolted in and works great. Now I don't have the stupid IDIOT light staring at me all the time.

[KYJ10]

Joe, Im confused by your first paragraph. Do you mean the bat terminal on the back can go to the battery post, and the S terminal can go under the dash where my terminal block distributes all the power? So these two wires will operate the alt fine? Dennis

[Retro93]

You sure you want to use the term "fire up" to describe this procedure? ;)

[KYJ10]

I really have nothing left to burn up! If something catches fire, it must be very hot, as Im down to seats and metal.

[Retro93]

Originally posted by KYJ10:
I really have nothing left to burn up! If something catches fire, it must be very hot, as Im down to seats and metal.It's a JEEP....there always seems to be something that will burn. :(

[Joe Guilbeau]

Originally posted by KYJ10:
Joe, Im confused by your first paragraph. Do you mean the bat terminal on the back can go to the battery post, and the S terminal can go under the dash where my terminal block distributes all the power? So these two wires will operate the alt fine? DennisYa knucklehead!

The "S" Terminal is the "FAT TERMINAL" on the regulator connector, it looks like a spade lug, rather than a post like the other three pins.

In reality, the wiring should already be there for the Alternator Output, right?

We are only talking about the "S" wire that is used to sense the battery voltage, right?

Have you done that Ammeter bypass thing?

Does it even have an Ammeter?

I've lost count of which vehicle we are talking about here...is it a Jeep?

[imported_horsepuller]

KYJ10:

Is that cs-130D in your 88 GW? If yes, did it bolt right in with the existing brackets, top and bottom?

[KYJ10]

I am the one with no stock wires left. Just running a treminal block, that i distribute all my power from. Battery is behind the seat with cable going to the starter solunoid and a cable going tot he terminal block. So the terminal block is where al the draw would be taken, so I think the S wire would go here, and the batt terminal to the + side of the battery. And no this is not in my 88.

[KYJ10]

Well heres one for ya, I just pulled the plug on mine, and all 4 contacts are post type, no spade type. So there must be several differnet types.

[Joe Guilbeau]

Originally posted by KYJ10:
Well heres one for ya, I just pulled the plug on mine, and all 4 contacts are post type, no spade type. So there must be several differnet types.OK, so I am the knucklehead here, did not realise that the CS-130D was the topic of conversation here.

The CS-130 has the one large pin or spade lug and the other three pins are much smaller.

The CS-130D has all the same size pins...

Still, "S" is the sense wire, and you may or may not need to connect some other wires depending on the specific regulator installed in your alternator.

Don't freak! Not a problem, just something to consider when installing. Some of the regulators have a "P" pin that is used to output a pulse train that is directly proportional to the alternators shaft pully RPM.

Sorta nice to have, if you wish to determine the actual amperage charge being replaced by the battery loads.

[KYJ10]

Well, I guess i'll just wire it up using the BAT and S terminals and see what I get. Thansk, Dennis