At Wit's End.. well not quite WIRING question Again!

[popeye44]

Hehe,,, Ok First of all thanks to Joe and the others that helped out last time.. This time things are a bit weirder.

After pretty much figuring out what the DSPO wiring is under the hood.. today I take my new steering wheel, kit etc out to fix the rest of the jeep. At this time I've replaced the below items.
1. starter
2. solenoid "3 before I got a good one"
3. ignition switch
4. Lock Cylinder
5. Steering wheel "it broke while fixing lock cyl"
6. Installed HEI dizzy

Now here's the issue..

Everything feels FINE when attempting to start the jeep, However with key turned all the way forward there is almost always a 1-3 second delay before the starter kicks in and maybe 1 out of 10 times the solenoid will not disengage after turning key back. Sometimes maybe 1 in 15-20 can't even get jeep to turn off it will still be running with key in off and locked position. Now from what I gather this should be closer to improbable than impossible but it's doing it for sure. I have adjusted the new ignition switch 6 ways from sunday thinkin maybe it was out of adjustment enough that it was still sending a signal. I got the switch from napa and it appears to be functioning correctly. Yet after all the adjusting I still have this random solenoid not disengaging or engine not shutting off error. The next thing I'm thinkin about doing is taking every piece of wire out of dash and redoing it. I assume something is sending a signal to solenoid when it's not supposed to. There are only 2 wires on the solenoid that should be capable of this "ignition and the constant 12v to dash" and the other few wires they connect to.. I assume I'm getting a short that isn't constant but thought I'd toss it out here for some more advice.

Thanks for the great help!

[Treeshark]

Check your grounds for connection and corrosion. The one from the block to the frame, and the one from neg battery cable to body. Same exact thing happened on my '78 Waggy. Both were completely gone on mine. That's a real hair raiser when it keeps cranking when the engine is running! Been there and didn't like it. :eek:

[PhilSine]

All symptoms point to the ignition switch. Take it back and tell them the problem. I know in many cases they will not take electrical parts back but in your case they just might especially since its an exchange and not a return. Also, take the original switch in with you and compare it to the new one they give you to make sure it is absolutely identical. Finally, go to their web site and double check the part number with the on-line catalog.

Good luck.

[popeye44]

Ground to block looks pretty good. I don't see one directly to body. I'll put one if their isn't.

THis switch feels good when i'm changing positions with it. good solid clicks between positions but your right.. it could be that switch. I did compare it at the store.. other than some minor changes "cosmetically best I can tell" it's the right switch and fits good. I got one for a non tilt 74 cherokee. I'll double check the part again. thanks for the input

[Fitzworld]

If your column is the GM style, I would check the rod that goes from the cyclinder to the under
dash switch for binds. It is possible that a bind could cause it hang slightly on the way down,
enough to cause the 2-3 second delay but not release and return when the cyclinder is turned
back to the run posistion.
I would recommend taking the under dash switch off of the column and moving it manually to check for any bind in it. If it binds, the problem is the switch, if it starts and does'nt hold the starter in after you release it, the problem is a bind in your column.
Good Luck Fitzworld

[popeye44]

Yea, I just had whole column apart.. no issues with the rod.. it's smooth acting no binds.