How do I fireproof my 79 Ammeter wiring

[Jeeptruck]

After the long debate last week between PhilSine and mdill about the ammeter set up in the pre-1980 fsj I am more confused than ever. All I want to do is wire the ammeter so as not to have a burn-down. Don't need to know volts, amps, resistance, etc. I just want to know the down and dirty. I need to know where to put each wire so not to have the dash fire so many fsj have had.
My current set-up:

Battery:
Positive Cable--Starter Solenoid and Heavy Gauge Yellow wire (I assume runs to ammmeter)
Negative Cable--Engine block

Starter solenoid:
Front large post--Positive Battery Cable
Rear large post--Starter
Small top posts--Green and Red light gauge wires

Alternator:
Post--Heavy gauge red wire (I assume comes from ammeter in dash)
Plug--standard 2 wire plug

I did not notice any fusable links in the heavy gauge wire running to and from ammeter, should there be any? Plaese help so I can sleep again and not worry about a fire...thanks mike

[BIGYELLOW78J10]

I think the most likely point of trouble it when you put a big draw on the alternator, such as when you almost kill the battery, and the alternator is working itself to death trying to recharge the battery. To me, that is the dangerous case. Even if it does not burn then, forcing the alternator to totally recharge the battery does the damage, time and constant use does the rest. SO, if you truly want some security, replace your wires to stock, and pay attention.

Now as a disclaimer, I have let my battery run down, and was too lazy to recharge the battery with a charger. I went on a long drive, and made the alternator charge my dying battery, which died the next day. At one point of the drive, all my working gages were pegged. Temp seemed fine by "hand" inspection, so I decided I fried something. I now believe I nearly fried something. And I will be putting a new set of gages in soon, and looking the old one over. Now to the disclaimer, I have not replaced my wiring. I am not a professional mechanic, nor am I an Electrical engineer. But what I do know is high amperage current fries little strands of copper wire. Fried copper wire burns Jeeps. So getting good wire at original specs and preventing massive amperage input is the best way to go, short of designing and fabricating an entire new electrical system. Although you could just add a voltmeter to monitor your battery, and forget the ammeter. Anywho, this should be another fun fighting topic.

Good Luck,

Daniel Toon

[Lindel]

The yellow wire has a fusible link buried in it, and isn't noticeable.

As far as setup, your's is typical. The easiest way to keep fire at bay, is to keep connections clean. No corrosion, no dirt, no moisture. This is tricky to do in the engine compartment, but no so in the cab.

Make sure that you brush connections down with a fine wire brush, (remove all the wires first), clean the connectors on the wires, and reassemble then use an electrical grease (should be available at your local parts store) to coat and seal out dust and moisture.

One of the best things you can do for your electrical system is to replace all the wires you can (battery cables, the cable from the alt to the starter relay, cable from the relay to the starter) with 2 gauge, or bigger wires. You'll also want to increase the (or install) a wire from the battery negative post, to the body of your truck, use a minimum of 6 gauge wire, and make absolutely sure that the connections are clean and solid. Grounds are absolutely critical when it comes to "clean and solid" connections.

[Jeeptruck]

I was told at one time to follow the wiring for a 1980 and later as they did not run all the power through the ammeter. I tried to follow my Haynes manual but could not differentiate between the pre-1980 and post-1980

[Lindel]

The wiring to the ammeter never changed (that I'm aware of), the whole time they used it.

They dropped the ammeter, in favor of a volt meter in 86, when they redesigned the dash.

[Bob Barry]

The easiest solution to what you're looking for is to bolt both the red and the yellow wire onto the same stud on the back of the ammeter. It's as easy as removing the nut for one of the wires, slipping that wire over the stud where the other wire is, and tightening that nut down on top of it (I believe the studs would be long enough to accomodate two ring terminals and two nuts). That effectively bypasses your ammeter.