PDA

View Full Version : pinion bearing


SCMOOSE
07-17-2003, 12:04 PM
can someone tell me how much slop if any is acceptible in the pinion bearing? Ive got the diff carrier out, and there is a little play up down left right within what apears to be the pinion bearing. 1/8" play max, is this normal, or do I dare tackle replacing pinion bearing????

[ July 17, 2003, 06:04 PM: Message edited by: SCMOOSE ]

Stuka
07-17-2003, 12:30 PM
that needs to be fixed. If not your looking at chewing up the R&P down the road.

Langdon
07-18-2003, 05:17 PM
Agreed, that is excessive play. You will need to replace the offending bearing(s), there are 2. Get a shim kit and use the same thickness shims (pinion depth and pinion preload) on initial install. Then use marking compound and 'pattern' the gearset, then check preload. Adjust as necessary. Randys Ring and Pinion has a good install manual in .pdf format... :cool:

myndcrym
07-19-2003, 08:25 AM
Drove by today and its off the jackstands. You must have fixed it! Are you going to the "jam" next week?

SCMOOSE
07-19-2003, 01:46 PM
just replaced diff carrier bearings, got scared to tackle pinion bearing. Think I may have to bring her to a mechanic. Dont think I dare take it too far with that rumbling noise. May have to make next years.

Kaiserjeeps
07-20-2003, 06:07 AM
Don't drive on it very long at all. The pinion should have no slop in any direction. Only some slight drag from the pinion bearing preload. You may have lost some preload shims. When the pinion comes out, check between the inner and outer bearing for remains of broken preload shims in the bottom of the housing. Make sure everythings out of there upon assembly. You will scrub the ring and pinion teeth and pretty much hose the contact surface if you don't fix it soon. I assume you are talking about a dana 44....
Good luck... Kaiserjeeps....(Al)...

SCMOOSE
07-20-2003, 12:37 PM
Ok guys you've all convinced me to fix it before I tear something else up. The million dollar question is, is this something that can be done in my driveway, or should I leave it up to the pros with all the special tools? And if I leave it up to the pros, what can I expect to pay? Sounds like my lift kit will have to wait a few months.

Kaiserjeeps
07-21-2003, 04:25 AM
The most important tool for any diff work is a quality manual. To do your pinion bearings, well you would need a brass or even steel drift to remove the races. Keep exact track of the shims you remove. There will be a stack behind the inner pinion race. There will also be a stack behind your outer bearing on the pinion shaft. I suspect you have lost some of those to end up with the slop you have. You would need a caliper or a 0 to 1" micrometer to measure your shims. You will need an inch pound torque wrench for setting the bearing preload minus the pinion seal. You will need the big socket for your pinion nut. You will also need a tool to hold the yoke so you can get the pinion nut off and on. You will also need the adapters to go from the torque wrenchs 1/4 drive all the way up to 1/2 for the socket. You will need some type of driver for the pinion seal when your done. You will need contact paste (from GM dealership) to check the contact pattern when your done. Now if you don't do the bearings and all your doing is replacing damaged preload shims, well your contact pattern should not change. You will probably need to buy a shim kit to get the preload shims that may need replacing. If thats the case, be sure to remove your pinion shaft and check the bottom of the housing for broken shims. Replace what you find has slipped out of the shim pack by measureing and replacing with same thickness shims. and put everything together without the pinion seal. Tighten the nut and check pinion preload disregarding breakaway torque. Do not set them up tighter than spec. Then install your pinion seal once pinion preload is in. You should check your backlash while you are in there. That requires a dial indicator with a magnetic base. I have a dana 44 in back with toasted pinion bearings from to much preload. Diff work is not easy. The hardest part is all the tools needed to do it right. I learned how to do diffs the hard way. I refused to pay someone when I knew I could do it myself. It took awhile before I got it down though. Good luck, I hope you find a good solution with out dumping a bunch of money.... Kaiserjeeps, (Al)...

SCMOOSE
07-21-2003, 11:08 AM
Ok Kaiserjeep, slowly but surely your convincing me. What better way to learn than to do it. Is pulling the front axles, and diff carrier for the time being and running only on the back diff an option while I aquire the tools needed? Will I cause any damage to the front end by doing this? Is the brass drift used in lou of a bearing puller? Just knock the old bearings and races out. And shims, are thier grooves that the shims fit into, or is it trial and error as to where they go. Im getting more brave by the day as I see my hopeless GW sitting in the driveway. Thanks for the help. Oh yeah, any preferences on a good mannual. My Haynes bites the big one.