Body Lift: Yea or Nay?

[Woody the Danger Wagon]

Getting ready to do an SOA, and thinking about a body lift on top of that to make some easy room for 35s along with better approach/departure angles. Figure it might make sense to do both at the same time so that I don't have to buy brake lines twice... wait... (thinking)... I don't even know if a body lift would require longer brake lines. Come to think of it - it wouldn't right? Hmmmm

at any rate, body lift:

Why not? Does this put strain on other components?

What are the advantages and disadvantages?

[Gearhead 1990]

nay

[Woody the Danger Wagon]

nay

Hmmmm... i was hoping for a little more around the "why" of your answer...

[PlasticBoob]

My TBI unit wouldn't fit under the hood without a body lift. And I wasn't about to do all that work for 1", so I went with 2". I don't do crazy off-roading, so I say YAY.

[thechier86]

i say yay because it's cheap, but i wouldn't do more than 3", and make sure you do it right, with bumper brackets and all...

[Gearhead 1990]

Hmmmm... i was hoping for a little more around the "why" of your answer...

Lol sorry :D

I personally have had several body lifts and regretted ALL of them. If you do a lot of off roading then the body and frame flex too much in my opinion. I have ruined body mounts, radiators, transmission/ clutch linkage....... I ran a big block chevy in my jeep and made it fit WITHOUT a body lift. It is still your rig and you can do whatever you want but I would suggest not using a body lift :thumbsup:

[bearfacedkiller]

Voted yeah.

Not the best but it doesn't raise your center of gravity as much as a suspension lift and it helped me fit an SM465.

There are definite advantages and disadvantages but I have one. When I had a 4" lift and 33's I managed to crack a body mount.

[sungoesdown]

No need for longer brake lines. I vote yeah, but I would do about 1.5" at the most and trim the fenders.

[wickedwagon767]

I gave the body lift a yeah

But only in 1" of height. 2" and taller body lifts add complications. Transmission shifter linkage,gas filler hoses,bumper brackets and steering shaft (at steering box) may ALL need to be lengthened.

I prefer small-to-medium suspension lift with 1" body and a little fender trimming to fit the tires I want

[orangecherokee]

yay- I've got a 2" BL and have no worries. IF you go beyond that it becomes sketchy IMO. too much leverage on those bolts.

[brubakes]

nay. never was a fan of body lifts.

[Headhoncho]

I voted yes. If I had to do it over again I would install only what is needed for clearance. My first choice would be a 2" but no more than 3". The proper bolts and solid mounts are a must. If your springs flex alot you don't have to worry as much about your frame twisting.


JR

[Blake]

I've had good luck with body lifts on several jeeps.

Makes working on them a bit easier because of the extra room.

[Tad]

...If I had to do it over again I would install only what is needed for clearance...

JR
I agree.
I did 2" solid steel mounts, made routing exhaust and installing the rear S10 tank a heck of alot simpler.
I'm glad I did.

[dajeeps]

go for it.i 'm getting ready to put on a 2'' bl.so that the cab can clear the frame in the back.

[jeeping1974]

I say no because it's always more cost than just the $75 for the BL. You can run into other problems and break stuff. Why not just install a new set of leafs or 2" lift leafs all around if you are going to SOA/shackle flip instead of a 2" BL?

I had an eddy intake and carb w/a 1" spacer and it cleared my hood with no problem.

[addicted]

I say Nay unless you really need that little bit of clearance and only if your rig isn't very rusty as sheet metal and seized bolts don't mix very well.

[jeeping1974]

What about trimming the fenders?

[AlsChopShop]

i wouldn't do it as a short cut.... only if you really need to do it. i did 2" on mine so i had a flat belly, the SM465 was so tall it was a better trade then everything hanging down past the frame.

Al

[orangecherokee]

I say no because it's always more cost than just the $75 for the BL. You can run into other problems and break stuff. Why not just install a new set of leafs or 2" lift leafs all around if you are going to SOA/shackle flip instead of a 2" BL?

I had an eddy intake and carb w/a 1" spacer and it cleared my hood with no problem.

you make an arguement on cost then say to use 2" leaves all around. How much do you think that'll cost? A 2" BL isn't going to cost you anything extra. All I had to do was adjust the set screw for the tranny shifting rod (auto/TH400). I've ran one for years without issue and next to nothing cost. Solid mounts like Tad's are even better and IMO cheaper/easier to find.

[Frankenstien]

I love them but not to big. I think it allows better access to underbody stuff. I try to stay 2 inches or under though.

[FSJK]

Everything in moderation...


I think a 1-2" is fine as long as you make sure the actual frame mounts are solid.

[HD_JEEP]

I voted Nay. Just not for me. The only way I would trim fenders is because of a rust issue. My 2 cents.:)

[orangecherokee]

I want to know why not. I'm not trying to defend my point but no one has given a good reason why not. There's been lots of pros, where's the cons?

edit: like above, HD says, "it's not for me". Not picking on you but using it as an example. Why is it "not you"?

[Gearhead 1990]

I want to know why not. I'm not trying to defend my point but no one has given a good reason why not. There's been lots of pros, where's the cons?

edit: like above, HD says, "it's not for me". Not picking on you but using it as an example. Why is it "not you"?

Lol sorry :D

I personally have had several body lifts and regretted ALL of them. If you do a lot of off roading then the body and frame flex too much in my opinion. I have ruined body mounts, radiators, transmission/ clutch linkage....... I ran a big block chevy in my jeep and made it fit WITHOUT a body lift. It is still your rig and you can do whatever you want but I would suggest not using a body lift :thumbsup:

I posted my reasoning lol. :thumbsup:

[orangecherokee]

yeah I guess you did. HA! must have missed that one.

[mike12]

I AM GOING TO DO A 2IN LIFT THIS FALL I WELL KNOW THEN :confused::drivin:

[Subic Jeep]

make sure the actual frame mounts are solid

this applies without a body lift also :D anyhow after a body lift you know if they are rusted out or not. I have done 2" on a 77 Wagoneer and 2 1/2" on my Cherokee no problems. Yeah it flexes but thats good......... :D
I need to keep a eye on the radiator.....
I have added rubber bushing under my internal roll cage support plate to the frame, I will add one more bushing, (total two each side) these will at same the time strengthen the body to frame ties.

The biggest advantage is that there is a lot more space under hood and around transmission and more space for installing a new fuel tank in the rear.

[goldhammer]

Not- I'm a body tech. and have seen some real nightmares with them. There were some pics of a rollover at highway speeds by one of the guys on here a couple or 3 years ago. Body came off the chassis. Not a real pretty sight.

[fsjman1978]

Never had a body lift on any of my vehicles. Plan on doing 2 inches along with soa on my 78 wagon in the spring. Have some left over 2x2 square tubing from a recent bumper I built. Plan on using that.

[mattmopar440]

The way these things love rust NAY but I can see 1 or 1.5" anything more and it will look like a POS wangler lift

[MistWolf]

I worked at a 4x4 shop for awhile. Most of our customers were interested in general four-wheeling and rock crawling. For the most part, I steered folks away from body lifts, especially for anything more serious than a mall crawler or some Joe wanting to look cool pulling into the campground. If you do go with a body lift, keep it to no more than an inch with 2 inches as a maximum.

Body lifts will raise the radiator opening and can reduce airflow. You may need to relocate the radiator. Radiator hose length can be an issue as well.

You may not have to run a longer brake line from the frame to the axle, but you have to consider the length from the body mounted proportioning valve to the frame.

The cons are that you raise the center of gravity for no gain in ground clearance. While a spring lift does not gain you any clearance under the axle, it improves break-over, approach and departure angles. To see an improvement in approach and departure angles with a body lift, the bumpers must be re-located which should be done as a matter of course. Still, the frame height will not be changed. Of course, the vehicle will be raised when the larger tires are installed, but in general there will be more usable gain with a spring lift. The change in CG with a body lift is less than with a spring lift.

A body lift will also "shorten" any shifters coming up through the floor. This can be a problem with rod linked shifters but should not be any trouble with a cable shifter.

Body lifts increase leverage is increased on mounts, mount bolts and bodyspacers. Metal fatigue in the form of cracking and wallowing of mount holes is also increased. There is a higher risk of mount bolt failure as well. It's not much of a problem with the shorter lifts but is a real concern as body lifts get taller.

If you do decide to use a body lift, keep it small and use it to fine tune your lift. Don't use it as the foundation of the lift. The best use I've seen for the body lift was by Currie. They put short body lifts in TJs to lift the drive train. Tucking up the drive train gives the TJ a flat bottom to mount a skid plate to and keeps drive train components from bashing their guts out on the rocks

[Woody the Danger Wagon]

I worked at a 4x4 shop for awhile. Most of our customers were interested in general four-wheeling and rock crawling. For the most part, I steered folks away from body lifts, especially for anything more serious than a mall crawler or some Joe wanting to look cool pulling into the campground. If you do go with a body lift, keep it to no more than an inch with 2 inches as a maximum.

Body lifts will raise the radiator opening and can reduce airflow. You may need to relocate the radiator. Radiator hose length can be an issue as well.

You may not have to run a longer brake line from the frame to the axle, but you have to consider the length from the body mounted proportioning valve to the frame.

The cons are that you raise the center of gravity for no gain in ground clearance. While a spring lift does not gain you any clearance under the axle, it improves break-over, approach and departure angles. To see an improvement in approach and departure angles with a body lift, the bumpers must be re-located which should be done as a matter of course. Still, the frame height will not be changed. Of course, the vehicle will be raised when the larger tires are installed, but in general there will be more usable gain with a spring lift. The change in CG with a body lift is less than with a spring lift.

A body lift will also "shorten" any shifters coming up through the floor. This can be a problem with rod linked shifters but should not be any trouble with a cable shifter.

Body lifts increase leverage is increased on mounts, mount bolts and bodyspacers. Metal fatigue in the form of cracking and wallowing of mount holes is also increased. There is a higher risk of mount bolt failure as well. It's not much of a problem with the shorter lifts but is a real concern as body lifts get taller.

If you do decide to use a body lift, keep it small and use it to fine tune your lift. Don't use it as the foundation of the lift. The best use I've seen for the body lift was by Currie. They put short body lifts in TJs to lift the drive train. Tucking up the drive train gives the TJ a flat bottom to mount a skid plate to and keeps drive train components from bashing their guts out on the rocks

Love this write-up. You all have provided some really good insight, and while the poll is split down the middle, for me the main takaway is that a small body lift makes good sense in some very specific situations - but as a general rule, it's to be avoided. I'm going to skip it!

[Subic Jeep]

If you do decide to use a body lift, keep it small and use it to fine tune your lift. Don't use it as the foundation of the lift. The best use I've seen for the body lift was by Currie. They put short body lifts in TJs to lift the drive train. Tucking up the drive train gives the TJ a flat bottom to mount a skid plate to and keeps drive train components from bashing their guts out on the rocks

Still the cheapest way to make room for larger tires is a body lift if you do not want to cut fenders. If you are worried about the body falling off then there are ways to add body supports or X braces. Maybe the body lift kits are a bit flimsy :p and could need some extra support (larger diameter) this should not be too complicated to make but adds costs.
The rubber body supports are in amazing good condition looking that they have been there almost 30 years, not bad. No I did not replace them yet.

My 2.5 inch body lift I gets my drive train above the underside of the frame, that is a flat belly and skid plate. The cross member holding the lower rear 4-links is still 2 inches below the frame, this needs a little tinkering in the future.

Looking from the point of vie of accessibility a 3 inch lift had been better well thats my setup, the bolts to the KluneV was a pain to tighten..

There will always be compromises and the standing is now 50:50 :sawzall: in good balance :huh: 3" / 2= 1.5" +/- 0.5"

[SnowShoe]

:thumbsdown: :thumbsdown: :thumbsdown: :thumbsdown:

[Ozmiander]

Just remember that you'll get a lift out of new factory height pucks too if yours are rotten. :D

[beloth]

I got my 2 inch body lift installed by tad when i got the chance to buy some bumpers off him a few years ago...solid kit built by him...works fine...have had it installed for several years (2 going on 3 )and have had ZERO problems at all with the lift...or the bumpers!

[spyderkeeper]

Am I the only one who thinks in addition to body lifts providing a poor headache/performance ratio that they don't look good either?

[Frankenstien]

One thing I like about mine with the J10 is it pulls the gas tank up above the frame and the driveshaft/rear end. It also does not affect the filler hoses.

[jcemitte]

I agree.
I did 2" solid steel mounts, made routing exhaust and installing the rear S10 tank a heck of alot simpler.
I'm glad I did.


solid steel mounts instead of rubber?

genius

[Frankenstien]

Let me add this though. Get ready to grind, cut, and cuss. When I did my 76 waggy it was a breeze with zero issues. Now I am in the middle of my 83 J10 and man its no joke. I tried a hole saw and it tried to break my wrist. Then I move on to a carbon cutting wheel. That worked great but then you gotta drill the retarded bolts to pin them. Not to mention I may need to adjust my front bumper to get it all finished bolted up. Also you will need washers because the bolts in these kits are universal. I think I put my TJ lift on faster. LOL

[bearfacedkiller]

I posted earlier that I voted yes but that it did break a body mount.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u93/bearfacedkiller/toys/brokenmount001s.jpg

I will try to put a 1.5"-2" body lift on instead if I can but with my SM465 it will be tricky. Plus I am going to try to run 40's with a SOA on stock springs and a body lift so we will see.:sawzall:

[gotgas]

Yea, It makes somethings underneath a little more accessible.

[woodironman]

where can a person get bumper relocation brackets

[Tad]

I posted earlier that I voted yes but that it did break a body mount.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u93/bearfacedkiller/toys/brokenmount001s.jpg

...
I've seen and fixed several like that, none were on rigs with body lifts so I doub't the body lift caused that damage.
Not saying the extra strain won't push a weak one over the edge but many of our rigs have weak areas just based on age, abuse and the quality of the original work.

[bearfacedkiller]

I've seen and fixed several like that, none were on rigs with body lifts so I doub't the body lift caused that damage.
Not saying the extra strain won't push a weak one over the edge but many of our rigs have weak areas just based on age, abuse and the quality of the original work.


Wasn't sure if the body lift caused it but I didn't notice it until after I put the bodylift on. I didn't replace the worn out body bushings and just figured it was a combination of them and the bodylift.

As stated before I am glad I have one. You can fit bigger tires with a lower center of gravity, they are cheap, you can fit any drivetrain you want in it (sm465/np205 for me) and it makes working on them easier.:thumbsup:

[Tad]

Wasn't sure if the body lift caused it but I didn't notice it until after I put the bodylift on. I didn't replace the worn out body bushings and just figured it was a combination of them and the bodylift.

As stated before I am glad I have one. You can fit bigger tires with a lower center of gravity, they are cheap, you can fit any drivetrain you want in it (sm465/np205 for me) and it makes working on them easier.:thumbsup: I was not trying to single you out.
I have just seen several of those broken.
It just happens to our rigs at their age.

That should be one of the first things folks look at when doing a body lift, or any type of lift.
Meaning the structure of the area prior to working on it.

I tore my front shackle loose, I'm sure it was comprimised way before the body lift, spring lift and the SOA took place.

[nicinsand247]

I have used body lifts before, the smaller the better. I would do the soa and wait and see if you need one. You can have them shipped quickly and after the soa is done you will know if you need one and how tall you want to go

[wickedwagon767]

I say just install the suspension lift and tires/wheels and see where you stand

AS you can see there are good and bad experiences with body lifts of different heights. Some people are knuckle heads and don't install them properly to begin with. I've seen stacked hockey pucks with holes drilled through them as body lift blocks. I've seen body lifts installed with 30 year old worn out body bushings. I've seen them installed with cheap , weak bolts when grade 8 or better should be used. The truth is in the details, which people rarely seem to be able to provide in full.

OrangeCherokee has been on this site longer than me and I can tell he seriously wheels' his rig. If he has had no issues then you can bank on the fact that they can work without issue.

Personally I wouldn't use one bigger than 2" because I dont' want to have to extend linkages,hoses,etc. Unless I were keeping my heater box and wanted a Caddy 500 big block:D under the hood and wanted a 33-gallon Bronco gas tank behind the rear axle.

Different mods work for different people. As long as the research is done thoroughly and the crap is installed with some forethough and intelligence........all will be just fine

:thumbsup:

[orangecherokee]

OrangeCherokee has been on this site longer than me and I can tell he seriously wheels' his rig. If he has had no issues then you can bank on the fact that they can work without issue.

Well, I tested the body lift this weekend again. This time by jumping the jeep on a dirt track. I've always wheeled it but never jumped it. It works :thumbsup:

[Casa Cruiser]

Does anything have to be adjusted with a 2 BL? I thinking my plan is 3 inch springs with 2 inch BL? Would F-911 harware be a wise choise? Sorry to hijack.

[ROK360]

I installed a 1.5" body lift into my wagon and I am positive that it was a good thing to do - the original mounts were all cactus with most of them having rusted out centres and the rubber was quite perished.

The new body mounts are Aussie made from Nolathane, so sourced locally.

Noticed that the original bolts were Grade 5's, tho I used Grade 8's with the lift.

[Clay Balke]

Stock '86 GW, want to put 35's under it. Can I cut fenders, body lift (how high)? Not going to be a serious mudder, just simple deer lease runner. Help....?

[68_Gladiator]

Heres how i did mine, 2x2x.25 square steel tubing, and the bolts are over-sized grade-8 5/8 i believe(stock is 7/16?). no problems at all. as for cracked body mounts, mine had a cracked mount before the lift was ever done. no disadvantages yet, and advantages are better access to the pass side rear spark plug and extra clearance i needed for my 33's.


http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/15/l_bc3a58cbc0f14e8da915d6fd54c6278b.jpg

[Tatsadasayago]

Hey 68G, did you notice any huge difference in road noise/drivetrain vibes after doing the that lift with the tubing?

[krek]

I just received my one inch body lift and it came with Grade 5 bolts... are they sufficient or should I upgrade to Grade 8?

[FSJK]

I doubt the body mounts require grade 8...those are usually for areas where strong strength are required, like in the suspension. I would feel comfortable using grade 5 for the body.

[68_Gladiator]

Hey 68G, did you notice any huge difference in road noise/drivetrain vibes after doing the that lift with the tubing?

felt exactly the same, only difference was now i could fit my 33's and it sat 2 inches higher, otherwise it felt stock. as for bolts, i went grade 8. can never be to safe, especially with more leverage on the blocks with the body sitting higher and having 2 areas of separation instead of one

[ol HICKS]

Would it be cheaper to make your own or just buy them?

[Topgun2mo]

On my 90 wag the body mounts were trash. I opted for a 1" body lift and new body mount bushings just to replace the worn out stuff on my jeep. Even if you don't do a lift I think most bushing would need attention. I also wouldn't substitute steel for a body bushing as I think something else would be prone to cracking.

[68_Gladiator]

Would it be cheaper to make your own or just buy them?

i think after buying all the materials approximately 2 feet of 2"x2"x.25 square tubing and all the grade 8 hardware i spent a total of 70 or 80 bucks

[HerrKooled]

Anyone here run a 3" body lift?

If so, any problems you have noticed? What did you have to lengthen?

[FallonJeeper]

I have a 3" on my current J-10, and had 3" on a previous J-10. I had NO problems with either. I hear a lot of talk about how they are bad for flex. That was never my experience. If the lift is done right, with quality materials, you won't see any problems. Don't forget to go back and retorque the body bolts. Same rule as with suspension lifts.

Here it is with just 3" Body lifty on 31" tires
http://webpages.charter.net/akweks/073web.jpg

And how it sits now with an additional 6" suspension lift on 35" tires.
http://webpages.charter.net/akweks/j10 build/rail5.jpg

[haynesm]

I did a three in body lift and a 4 in spring lift. made a nick combination. runs 34 x 10.5 r15 with room for chains

http://i824.photobucket.com/albums/zz170/haynesm/Jeep%20Grand%20Wagoneer/Wapitiwagon2010.jpg

[Thumper168]

Everyone has their oppinions but I like body lifts for the simple fact they give you more clearance for working on things and if you redo your bumper mounts its a pretty clean look. If I ever get mine running right it will have a 3" body lift for sure! Ive had body lifts on 6 vehicles with no ill effects.

[serehill]

To decrease drivshaft angle I have 3" body 4" spring

[stokes.greg]

I bought it like this looks good, but i don't do any hill climbing b/c there are none here. holds 31's ez needs 33x10.5

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/stokesgreg/wagoneer.jpg

[Tigger4X]

Personal experience and other horror stories NO WAY on the BL. I will be fabbing up higher body mounts with strong gussets this time.

[orangecherokee]

I say no… One reason that is seldom pointed out is the ride quality… and some folks might not care. Most body lifts are hard plastic and they are replacing rubber or polyurethane mounts that are much softer. Poly and rubber mounts reduce the amount of shock carried through the frame into the cab.
Outside of that I just don’t care for them-

do what? if you're truly gaining the inches then you do not get rid of the original rubber mounts. if you've got a 2" block and replacing a 1" rubber mount you're negating the reason for buying 2". I still say BL are ok and to not knock it till you've tried it.

[AlsChopShop]

I say no… One reason that is seldom pointed out is the ride quality… and some folks might not care. Most body lifts are hard plastic and they are replacing rubber or polyurethane mounts that are much softer. Poly and rubber mounts reduce the amount of shock carried through the frame into the cab.
Outside of that I just don’t care for them- body lift is just a spacer between the body and the body mount, it does not replace it.

Al

[MonsterZ]

I say yay, it does make it considerably easier to work on drivetrain components. Sometimes there can be extra cost, most times not. I ran one on my 3/4 ton suburban for years, no issues. Even with all the flexing and x-ditch droop it would experience (fully stuffed 38 on one corner, 18 inches of drop on the other is not easy on body mounts). Planning on running a 1 or 2 inch on my cherokee, but no more than that. Will also be doing a SOA and Shackle flip for my actual heigth, thought about a front shackle reversal, still looking into that.

[Chumley360]

I approve of short body lifts(1-2") for clearance reasons. And while it can be more work, I'd rather put in a body lift then hack up my fenders for that little extra tire clearance. But you've got to be smart about installing them and what you're installing them on. Also if you're body or frame mounting points look questionable, then fix them first.

[pineymike]

I may be wrong{ it's happened before} But it seams like some people just jump on the anti BL band wagon without actually installing one? I've bought trucks/wagons/cj's with BL's already on them with mixed results.Some were so bad I had to remove them and after extinsive repairs to both frame& body mounting points reassemble with or without BL I'm just sayin' that properly installed&maintianed there great! Improperly done there the worst.I'm curently driving an '89 F350 4x4 4dr with 36"s with only a 3" BL it was installed in'89 when the truck was new it curently has 118,000 mi or so the cab is fine but the bed shows signs of crackin' around the mounts that are going to need some attention soon.I have over the years run this truck hard with&with out an 11' cabover camper on&offroad! I just swaped in a RB longblock 460 wile working on that project I marveled at the room under the hood& around the body/frame over the wheels ect without theBL it would have been cramped & a pain to work on! Good luck have fun!:drivin:

[FallonJeeper]

I totally agree. All of the bad experiences can be traced back to bad installs where they removed the existing body mount spacers and put just the solid lift blocks in. :banghead: Or they didn't torque it to specs or failed to re-torque it after some driving. You have to use a torque wrench, just don't eyeball it, or use an impact gun and say "it feels tight enough" Believe me it won't be right.

1", 2" or 3" are all good if you:

1. install it right, adding the lift blocks to the existing body mount spacers. (This is documented in the installation instructions, if you got a lift kit that included them, or if you cared to read them)

2. Use a good body lift kit, not home made kits from whatever is lying around. I've seen some silly stuff from people trying to save a couple bucks. Hockey pucks used to be a good one. One puck width is about an inch. Guys used to drill bolt holes in them and stack them to get 3". Wood blocks? Yeah I've seen them too, and you can't torque them because they compress, plus they rot and get sloppy. Even square tubing doesn't work well because it doesn't stay centered on the bolt and slide, making it hard to keep them torqued.

3. Torque it, and re-torque it later.

Never had a problem on either of my J-10's. :thumbsup:

[Monkeyfrog]

Sorry guys- Thanks for correcting me...



body lift is just a spacer between the body and the body mount, it does not replace it.

Al

[RamJetFSJ]

So if you were going to do a body lift... What are some good body lift manufacturers that have kits for the FSJs? And what are some manufactures to stay away from?

Im thinking about doing one for the following reasons:
More clearance for rear mount fuel tank.
Easier to run exhaust/plumbing
Flat belly pan (able to raise TC a bit)
More clearance from axle to motor/exhaust

I dont plan on using this as a heavy wheeler, but more of a camping (expedition style) rig with medium wheeling. Already have a 4" spring lift, and plan to run 35s with a little trimming.

[FallonJeeper]

Rusty's has 2" and 3" kits available.

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=rustys&Category_Code=BODYLIFT

[GallionSW]

I am definitely against body lifts

[jwalton23]

I have a 91 Grand Wagoneer with a 3" suspension lift. I have 32x11.50's and I want 35's. I am going to do a 3" BL and the fender flares from bjs offroad. Does anyone know if this combo will work or will I still have tires hitting fenders?

[SNO*MAN]

I just went and measured the body lift on mine and it is 4" of body and I think 4" of suspension lift. I will say that other than the back bumper not being relocated correctly- It looks fine and it sure made swapping in the overdrive 700r and new 208 transfer case a lot easier and the crossmember had only a slight adjustment made to it. Just in case anyone is thinking of doing one.:thumbsup:
The bad part is anyone not doing the swap will have to re-consider all the linkage adjustments and such to make them work properly without binding on the stock gear.

[Keanu151515]

I had bought a cj5 awhile back with a 2"lift and loved it. Only problem it had was a fiberglass body that cracked. Not sure if it was from the BL though.
I now have a 78 j10 and looking to do a 2" BL on it. Anyone know if I need to modify the clutch linkage for the new body Hight?

[Topgun2mo]

I had voted to do at least a 1" body lift or at least disassemble the body mounts and check them out. Here is what I found:

Body bolt almost rusted through
http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m545/topgun2mo/DSC08544.jpg

Body mount in another location rusted through
http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m545/topgun2mo/DSC08543.jpg
http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m545/topgun2mo/DSC08542.jpg

It pays to do a little preventative work.

[alwomac]

I voted no. The only body lift experience I have had wasn't good. I had a 2" on an '82 Ford on 36s and I did wheel it but nothing ridiculous and the bolts on the body lift kept bending, I assume from the increased leverage on the longer bolts during body flex. I would put good bolts in and they would keep bending and it was major pain to get bent bolts out of the body mounts.

[SVO42]

My TBI unit wouldn't fit under the hood without a body lift. And I wasn't about to do all that work for 1", so I went with 2". I don't do crazy off-roading, so I say YAY.

PB, what TBI setup are you using? Motor and intake manifold? Researching this myself and want to be prepared.

[roundss]

Heres how i did mine, 2x2x.25 square steel tubing, and the bolts are over-sized grade-8 5/8 i believe(stock is 7/16?). no problems at all. as for cracked body mounts, mine had a cracked mount before the lift was ever done. no disadvantages yet, and advantages are better access to the pass side rear spark plug and extra clearance i needed for my 33's.


http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/15/l_bc3a58cbc0f14e8da915d6fd54c6278b.jpg

Did you weld it to the body? Curious if you ran a longer bolt all the way through, welded it or ran a bolt top and bottom. I can't imagine doing anything other than a longer bolt but I've seen stranger things.

[Tad]

Did you weld it to the body? Curious if you ran a longer bolt all the way through, welded it or ran a bolt top and bottom. I can't imagine doing anything other than a longer bolt but I've seen stranger things.
It's from an older rig like mine, your body mounts are way different, don't even try that, you have way better/easier options available then us older rigs do.

[FallonJeeper]

How's the vibrations from the tires/engine?

[Don in Missouri]

I need to add a body lift for clearance for a 4bt.

I am interested in rubber mounts for added vibration isolation from that rattlely diesel.

Are there any good options for a 2" or 3" lift using rubber or something a little softer than the polyurethane?

[roundss]

It's from an older rig like mine, your body mounts are way different, don't even try that, you have way better/easier options available then us older rigs do.

I was just curious what the finished product looked like. I assume that wasn't a finished product just trying to see if I need to run the other way if I see it in Spocaine. between some of the ford sites, pirate, and scary steering you see some things that make you scratch your head. I think chunks of I beams and hockey pucks are my favs. :eek: