Ernzo
08-21-2001, 10:57 AM
Thanks for all the help on this project, turns out the pump was toast, I think that I may be the culprit as I do not think I bled and primed corectly. I prepared nots on the bleeding process that I followed, I think they may be helpfull. Here they are:
If you ever have to do a Power Steering pump replacement, the BIG deal is bleeding all the air out. After you install the pump, attach the pressure line, and do NOT attach the return line at the pump (on wags, the return is a Joe Blow piece of 3/8 inch fuel line, nothing special). Do NOT remove the return line 'cap' that keeps crap out of the new pumps, of course when you do attach the return line, you will remove this cap first....
With fluid in the pump, the pressure line attached and the return detached and sticking into a suitable container, like a 1/2 gal milk container, you jack the front up, both tires, do not start the motor, and revolve the wheel back and forth, slowly. Each complete side to side will pump out about 1/4 pint of fluid into your milk container. You see, the steering gear is actually large piston, among other things. If you operate it by turning the wheels without the motor running, it acts like a suction pump and pulls new fluid out of the PS pump reservoir, and pushes it through. A ton of old crappy stuff came out! You have to keep filling. Much air comes out at this point as well. Since the return line is detached, it does not 'burp' fluid, yet.
After about a qt. of old fluid had been pulled out (more if you like), attach the return line. Be careful, when you remove the safety cap, fluid POURS out. You just quickly shove the line on and tighten your clamp.
With both lines on and the pump full of fluid, you start moving the wheel back and forth from stop to stop, again with the motor off, about 40 times. Fluid will burp out now, you have to re-fill. You may see and/or hear air come out.
After the motor off process, make sure the belt is tight and start it up for about 2 seconds and turn off quickly. It will have sucked fluid in, and you will have to add again. Fill it up and start the motor. Now, again with the wheels in the air, you have to continue to move the steering wheel back and forth, from stop to stop, about 40 times, checking the fluid as you go.
Turn the motor off, check all nuts, bolts and belts, lower the jeep and start it up. It will continue to burp a little fluid for several days, so keep some grease soak down, but that's all! You’re done.
A note on replacement Pump ‘priming’. My rebuilt came with a small amount of prime. If you’re careful, you can keep that in the pump as you attach it. It is suggested that after the pump is on the jeep, and the pressure line attached, you fill the reservoir and spin the pulley BACKWARDS for a couple of revolutions, before proceeding with the bleeding. This will ensure that fluid is fully involved in the mechanism. Of course, you must do this before installing the belt.
If you ever have to do a Power Steering pump replacement, the BIG deal is bleeding all the air out. After you install the pump, attach the pressure line, and do NOT attach the return line at the pump (on wags, the return is a Joe Blow piece of 3/8 inch fuel line, nothing special). Do NOT remove the return line 'cap' that keeps crap out of the new pumps, of course when you do attach the return line, you will remove this cap first....
With fluid in the pump, the pressure line attached and the return detached and sticking into a suitable container, like a 1/2 gal milk container, you jack the front up, both tires, do not start the motor, and revolve the wheel back and forth, slowly. Each complete side to side will pump out about 1/4 pint of fluid into your milk container. You see, the steering gear is actually large piston, among other things. If you operate it by turning the wheels without the motor running, it acts like a suction pump and pulls new fluid out of the PS pump reservoir, and pushes it through. A ton of old crappy stuff came out! You have to keep filling. Much air comes out at this point as well. Since the return line is detached, it does not 'burp' fluid, yet.
After about a qt. of old fluid had been pulled out (more if you like), attach the return line. Be careful, when you remove the safety cap, fluid POURS out. You just quickly shove the line on and tighten your clamp.
With both lines on and the pump full of fluid, you start moving the wheel back and forth from stop to stop, again with the motor off, about 40 times. Fluid will burp out now, you have to re-fill. You may see and/or hear air come out.
After the motor off process, make sure the belt is tight and start it up for about 2 seconds and turn off quickly. It will have sucked fluid in, and you will have to add again. Fill it up and start the motor. Now, again with the wheels in the air, you have to continue to move the steering wheel back and forth, from stop to stop, about 40 times, checking the fluid as you go.
Turn the motor off, check all nuts, bolts and belts, lower the jeep and start it up. It will continue to burp a little fluid for several days, so keep some grease soak down, but that's all! You’re done.
A note on replacement Pump ‘priming’. My rebuilt came with a small amount of prime. If you’re careful, you can keep that in the pump as you attach it. It is suggested that after the pump is on the jeep, and the pressure line attached, you fill the reservoir and spin the pulley BACKWARDS for a couple of revolutions, before proceeding with the bleeding. This will ensure that fluid is fully involved in the mechanism. Of course, you must do this before installing the belt.