View Full Version : carb rebuild
1990XJFSJ
07-26-2009, 02:28 PM
For those who have done their own, on a scale of 1-10 (10 beiing take it to a pro) how hard is a carb rebuild? I have a FSM (from years back for my XJ, but also covers SJ) and a pretty good selection of tools, but not many "specialty" tools.
Also where would be the best place to buy a kit? Napa? Vatozone? Adavance?
I just got done installing a new throttle cable, headlight switch and some new guage cluster bulbs (found out half were burned out, explains the dim cluster!) only to find out out the carb appears to be having issues now. Plus I don't think it has ever been maintanced.
silvercert
07-26-2009, 02:33 PM
its a 1. Plus there is a thread on here with step by step pictures.
skinnyD
07-26-2009, 06:56 PM
x2. I followed Ristows step by step instructions for my 2150 rebuild. I give it a 5 just because it was my first one ever, but the next time I do it Ide give it a 1 also.
BarryL
07-26-2009, 09:17 PM
1/2
Easy carb to build. Autozone kit was 20-30 bucks as I recall. I also bought a float for the extra 5 or 10.
If you can follow directions and have an air compressor avail...go for it. Also "cleanleness" counts here.
Heckofadeal
07-27-2009, 05:17 PM
I'd give it a 2 or 3. If i can do it anyone can.
tgreese
07-27-2009, 05:29 PM
Yeah, I'd say 2-ish if you follow directions. You have to pay attention and be clean, but it's mostly disassemble, clean everything, and reassemble with new parts. You have to follow the directions for adjustment that come with the kit too. If you are good at following directions, then it's easy.
1990XJFSJ
07-27-2009, 06:48 PM
good stuff. I actually just picked up a compressor on saturday. I skimmed over Ristow's thread (very well done), so following dirctions shouldn't be a problem. Now I just need to wait until next month to get the fundage for this little project. I also think I'm in need of a new alternator, noticed the voltage drops ALOT(goes into the red) when I cut my headlights on.
Thanks for the input!
wjrodman
11-20-2009, 11:38 AM
I believe a carb rebuild is on my list of things soon too and I've never done one either.
Anything that's going to be tough with removal of the carb? Anything to be careful I don't strip out?
Just got my first FSJ. 1991 Grand Wagoneer and she's finally running but the carb has sat for a long time.
1990XJFSJ
05-02-2010, 03:20 PM
so I started to rebuild my carb finally. Are these parts ok to dip?
http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs351.snc3/29170_389131911125_650506125_4473613_6140233_s.jpg
skinnyD
05-02-2010, 06:26 PM
Looks like the choke housing and aneroid...do not dip.
andy d
05-02-2010, 06:39 PM
I wouldnt bother removing the the throttle shaft or the plates. But, If the holes are wallowed out , then you'll have to because it will need to be bushed. I used a gallon of stale gas and about 3 cans of carb cleaner. to clean up the bits. Set the idle jets at 2 turns out. :thumbsup:
shonuff
05-02-2010, 06:46 PM
Getting ready to do this too. I know there's alot of variation between rebuild kits, but has anyone had to but other plates/gaskets aside from the kit? Anything else (aside from vacuum lines) I should replace while I've got it off?
skinnyD
05-02-2010, 06:57 PM
PCV and EGR if they arent working. Easy to get to with the carb off. Hows the hard plastic spacer that goes between the intake and phenolic spacer? Mine was cracked in two places. I was able to buy it at NAPA where I bought the rebuild kit. I dont know if there is any difference between a rebuild kit from Autozone or NAPA, but NAPA's kit cost 67 dollars and I've heard Autozone's goes for 25+ dollars. Unfortunately I dont have an Autozone around here.
eurowag
05-03-2010, 01:07 PM
Yep - Ive just finished my 1st rebuild today. Id rate it as a 2 out of 10. A couple of tricky bits due to trucks age. I had minimal tools - no air and shops shut so couldnt get carb cleaner. I used some old tooth brushes and a gallon of petrol plus bucket. Its 100 % better running than before - started right up and idles like velvet! I would recommend anyone doing it right now . The carb was caked in oil/crud but cleaned up well inside and out. I think the main problem with my poor idle was the plastic base parts. They were cracked right through and look really bad.-most possibly vacuum leak . They fell apart when i got them off. My kit came with a new set (made of a kind of woven black material -not plastic) The kit was a standard Hygrade and seemed fine (the only one i could get in England) I havent even set the idle screws propery yet as it getting dark but will re-visit that soon. Just went for a drive and the difference is amazing. (Mine wasnt to bad inside) I used some instant gasket on the woven base parts as they didnt look to flat- and would recommend long reach socket to get the carb back down (the new black spacers were about 5mm shorter than the old set so studs stick up more when tight) . My sockets were too short so had to use a spanner- took ages to crank it down. Also watch out for the carb choke heater assembly- its a bit tricky to get back in and hook up:rolleyes:
Ohh and make sure you take lots of pictures with camera or phone - this was invaluble when reasembling vac tubes / linkages and choke etc.
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