Help with my Build... Will this work (with pics)?

[duncanstives]

Looking for a bit more help with my build (build thread to come once its completed)... The front of my Jeep is getting a high pinion 8 lug D44 from a 78 Ford. It is SOA from the factory and has one of the perches cast as part of the diff casting... Problem is that part of the casting running to where the perch is forms kind of a little truss. Heres how it looks:
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs154.snc1/5730_131279780490_742425490_3526881_3104036_n.jpg

As you can see the bottom of the inner U-bolt would sit right on the truss which obviously is not good. I am curious how they bolted it on originally and what that best way to put it on the Jeep would be.
Here is my current plan:
The truss is pretty thick as you can see in this photo:
http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs134.snc1/5730_131279950490_742425490_3526893_1380887_n.jpg

So I plan to notch it and simply use a "u-bolt" with two 90 degree bends and a flat bottom instead of a round one. Only problem with this plan is that the truss is not as wide as I would like and thus much of the u-bolt will be unsupported.
So I am wondering if this will be strong enough or if there is a better way to make this work?

Thanks!

[wickedwagon767]

I'll be eyeballing this thread. I will be using a Ford HP dana44 eventually as well on a FSJ project

I assumed I would grind straight through the truss,round it off and run a standard rounded u-bolt. We'll see if someone has a better solution

[duncanstives]

I'll be eyeballing this thread. I will be using a Ford HP dana44 eventually as well on a FSJ project

I assumed I would grind straight through the truss,round it off and run a standard rounded u-bolt. We'll see if someone has a better solution

That was my first thought but I decided against it for two reasons:
A: The truss was put there for a reason... I would assume it makes the axle stronger.
B: It would take a LONG time to gring through that much material with my little 4.5in grinder.

[wickedwagon767]

That was my first thought but I decided against it for two reasons:
A: The truss was put there for a reason... I would assume it makes the axle stronger.
B: It would take a LONG time to gring through that much material with my little 4.5in grinder.

A: Its a Dana44. That little bit of material won't make that much of a difference, IMO.

B: All I have is a little Harbor Freight 4.5" angle grinder too :rolleyes: . Cutting/grinding wheels aren't that expensive :p

[Heckofadeal]

I think those axles may have used the square U-bolts with the plate that went under the axle and were cast with notch for the truss.

Could you drill a hole large enough for a regular Ubolt to pass through and chamfer the edges a bit to match the countours of the axle tube?

[sungoesdown]

Grind away! That is without a doubt what I would do.

[JeepsnCellos]

That looks to be a high stress area (the reason they have the gusset there in the first place). It would probably be fine, but I would explore all my options before grinding too much. As you mentioned, find out what the stock configuration was. Maybe you can imitate it.

If you do end up grinding, make sure to keep all notches as smooth as possible. Cast iron is very vulnerable to stress concentrations.

[aallison]

Is there any chance the holes are threaded and they uses a stud or something to screw down into the holes?

It seems like you can spend time using a Google and seaching the images to find out how they bolted them up on the fords....

[LTS06]

Hey Arthur this is Superman from FJOA.

The LP D-44 under my J10 is just like that. I just got the correct size u-bolt to go over that gusset and fit the larger cast tubing there.

On the HP-44 I had under an MJ I built a while back I did the same thing and had no issues.

If you are going to do something else I would consider drilling a hole to allow the u-bolt to go through that cast piece...I have actually seen some factory axles like this. But if you do end up cutting/grinding you really won't have to do much...just notch enough material away to let the u-bolt rest in the notch. No matter which route you go you'll still need 2 different size u-bolts for that side.

[Tad]

Duncan,
I'd grind it round.
Won't take too long if you get a zip wheel (1/16" thin cutting blade) for your grinder (just for the first two major cuts), then with a regular stone smooth and contour it all so there are no abrupt corners.
If you are still concerned about it after that then weld the tubes to the housing (mines been welded and trussed for years with no ill effects).

[Sambo]

grind away!:thumbsup:

[jeeping1974]

You can see in the second pic a threaded hole for a bolt to be used to hold down leaf pack to the axle.

[Gearhead 1990]

You can see in the second pic a threaded hole for a bolt to be used to hold down leaf pack to the axle.

I THINK that is for a u bolt to go through, not threaded for a bolt.

[JeepsAndGuns]

The factory ford used u-bolts that pointed down, they were squared off and looped over the leaf spring. There was a cast iron spring plate made to clear the casting rib. I myself would not grind it away, its there for a reason.

There is a member on here who machiened a special peice that fit over the rib and is welded in place, and had a round surface for the ubolt to sit. It was for his ford HP 60 front, and its made the same way as the 44 you have. I purchased his prototype, but have not even gotten my (HP D60) axle finished rebuilt, so its not installed yet. I can take a pic if you want.

[Michael]

Hmmmmm a grinder works fine. I did the same thing on my hp60. But I also used 5/8 ubolts. All you need is a little bit of an indention on the casting to keep the ubolt from sliding. I think I shaved off about 1/4" at the most. There is not difference in shaving a butt load off a 14blt.


http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p18/87redwag/MiscphotosCrucesKatemcykiddos241.jpg

[Headhoncho]

Grind away. I did it to mine and it's been fine for 10 years. Sorry about the pic but it's all I have.


http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc237/headhonchoj10/my%20truck/DSCN1855.jpg

JR

[Slick Willie]

I just ground (grinded?) it down on my D60. 5000 lb rig, serious weight and stress on the front axle when flexed, no problems. It is there for a reason, but it's not mandatory.


http://www.krawltex.com/newtex/albums/album164/sept_9_008.jpg

[duncanstives]

Thanks for all the replies guys... I wound up grinding just enough to make a flat spot there and I will use a square u-bolt.
EDIT: I will also propably be using 5/8ths u- bolts

[djongeward]

Duncan - just went out to look at my sons High Boy with the same high pinon 44l as yours (his was a swap from a later Ford as well). He has mud all over it, but from what I can see there is a very thick plate, like 1/2 inch perhaps with bolt hole wings. Looks like it indeed fits around that truss. Too bad you can't find one of those or make one. It almost looks like a 4bbl carb spacer except it's made from heavy steel. Any of the solutions here would be fine, however.

[jeepsohigh]

I run an HP44 from an 79 ford f250 in my baby jeep. I just run what was the factory cast plate on the bottom but use 1/2 inch bolt's with a 1/4 inch plate on top. It had sqaure u bolt's that came from the top side from the factory.


Most of the folks I run with that have this axle just grind out the gusset and use a bigger u-bolt.


here some pics of mine. (its currently out with the new bady jeep build)
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/jeepsohigh/008.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/jeepsohigh/005-1.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/jeepsohigh/006-1.jpg

[djongeward]

Yep, that's the one on ours. :)

[wickedwagon767]

ok I think its settled

grind away:cool: