Changing oil pan gasket w/o manual

[Heavyjp]

Hey guys! I have'nt posted much, but I need help with this. My partner and I started to change the oil pan gasket. What a f-ing job that is. I disconnected the exhaust from the manifold and even twisted the the oil pickup cause at first I thought that was holding it up. We came to the conclusion that the flywheel plate held up the whole enchalotta, well you get my drift. We also changed the distributor cap plugs,wires,fuel filter and can't seem to find where the pcv valve goes. Do yall know? We had a hell of a time changing the plugs. Could this be done easier by taking off the wheels and going through the wheel wells? I have to the middle of the month to pass inspection and I already failed for the gas cap and emissions. The emissions thing was for not having a tailpipe (due to me cutting the rusted off one at the rear axle). I should of at least told the inspection lady. She kept looking for it (while I was laughing my Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogley off) and ended up getting male co-worker to show her that it was way under the Jeep. Right now it's still sittin in the garage and I don't think I'll get to it until next week. Thanks for listening :eek:

[ July 03, 2001: Message edited by: Heavyjp ]

[Spinner]

If memory serves me correctly, all you need to pull to change the oil pan gasket is the starter and a couple of external tubing holders (for the tranny cooler and vacuum disco front axle) that are held on by the oil pan bolts on either side of the motor. Careful NOT to overtighten the pan bolts on re-assembly or you'll be doing another gasket change very shortly. The rubber end pieces are a real pain to install. Use lots of the brown Permatex sealer to hold the pieces in place and pray liberally upon reassembly. As far as the plugs go, the right rear two are a real pain. I've had to use a swivel ratchet while laying over the radiator and I've even tried to reach them from under the rig. I suppose if you're doing lots of motor work then pulling the hood would help but other than that it's just trial and error in my experience. Good luck! ;)

[nograin]

Well, I would say do a search for "oil pan" as it was covered about a month ago, but the search isn't working for me, nor can I show the old posts. Sooo...

Oil Pan
1. Disconect Battery
2. Chock back and put the front frame up on jack stands - let the front suspension hang.
3. Starter - disconect wires & remove, note the differnt bolts.
4. Remove the transmission torque converter dust shield.
5. Optional - Remove Y pipe - May make job easier - I didn't have to - and it was easier for me to leave it on.
6.Remove pan bolts (2 differnt sizes) Note where the trans line brackets need to go back.
7. Drop pan: straight down, then back into trans housing. From the front of vehicle you can see what is happening . First objective is to clear the pick up from the baffle if I recall. Then, if you've left the Y pipe in, turn the pan 90 degrees and cock it a little I think, so the front of the pan faces the driver side wheel. You should be able to get it to drop outgoing back toward the transmission.

As MM said, on the 84 you may have to disconnect some vac lines to the front axle. Those don't exist on an an '85.

I was able to reinstall it the same way.
Right, to keep the gaskets from coming off during reinstall, I used Permatex Hi-tack. Gasca-cinch will work just as well. Remember its just an adhesive, not a sealant. I did a Mopar 340 about the same time, so I may be a little confused here, but I'm 90 % sure that I installed the gaskets to the engine on the AMC 360 - When you look at how the end seals meet with the rail gaskets you should be able to figure it out. It also relates to how the end gaskets fit to the engine - they kindof of lock in. (opposite of the old mopars that lock to the oil pan).

For a good job straighten and flatten the pan side rails or flange, especially around the bolt holes. Machinest or body hammer and a scap 1 by will get you close. A file and straight edge can be used to finish it off if you are very picky. Remove all filings of course.
Also. clean the heck out of the screw threads and if you can, clean out the screw holes with a tapp. Otherwise the torque will not be truly even, even if you use a torque wrench.
Clean all the oil off the mating surfaces before installing gasket. Paint prep, alcohol, are good.

PCV valve goes behind the carb. There is an S shaped tube that you must use (or make a loop in std pvc hose and hope it doesn't kink) It hooks to a tube coming out the back of the intake manifold. A small vac line to the charcoal cannister comes off of the PCV valve itself.

Spark plugs. You CAN get to all of them from the top. Try differnt angles and wrench combos. In my Wag, I used a 3/8 drive ratchet, and an assortment of extensions from very short to 6" I think. A "strong arm" drive is also helpful cause it gives more leverage and the head takes up less space.


Roselle ? I stop by Roselle once in a blue moon. I'm originally from Millburn, had friends in Roselle. One still lives there.

[ July 04, 2001: Message edited by: nograin ]

[Heavyjp]

Thanks for the reply guys :cool: Very informative, you guys really know your sh#t. I'm just a CHERRY with 4x4's. I'm learning and soon I'll be getting a manual for my jeep. Still don't have pics, but will post soon on webpage. Loved working on her, but had to wear serious work glasses due to heavy rust and stuff underneath.
Wish I could have taken a pic for yall. I looked like the creature from the black lagoon.
:D

[1jeep4me]

I just dropped my oil pan and found that there is a metal tab built in to the fly wheel cover, kinda like a little finger sticking out that presses up againt the oil pan lip, My pan dropped very easily after un bolting the starter and tranny fly wheel cover.