rear main bearing seal missing steps

[mulepic]

Hi All,
I've followed the Tech Library's procedure to remove the rear main bearing seal and there must be some missing steps.

When I loosen the other bearing caps and all the v-belts, my crankshaft doesn't move. I was assuming there was a reason to loosening those other caps, what is it? Isn't the transmission preventing the crankshaft from moving?

I need help, the bottom of my engine is exposed and I can't get the upper part of the rear seal out of there. When other's did this, was the engine still in the car? I currently have the axle removed for other repairs but the exhaust is really making it difficult to get at the seal.

Thanks,
Matt

if needed, it's an '87 grand wagoneer.

[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

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[fredws]

You should be able to use a small diameter punch and tap on one side of the upper half of the seal, should spin right out of there. Sometimes they are a bit stubbon to get started, just be careful not to scratch the crank.

Loosening the other main caps just relieves a bit of the pressure, but no, the crank will not drop down.

[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

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[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

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[joe]

Loosening the rest of the bearing caps allows the weight of the crank to drop a bit. It's not going to drop a lot or fall out but just drop down a few thousands to take pressure off the seal. Some old seals slide right out...some you need to coax a bit with a "brass" drift.

[jode]

Whats the difference between a "brass" drift and a brass drift?

[joe]

Some drifts are steel aka punches. Point was don't use steel anything...screwdriver, punch blah blah...

[derf]

I had a little trouble getting my seal out. Two observations I made:

1. It is important to place the punch/drift/whatever carefully. I ended up pushing mine in between the metal core of the seal and the crank. Carefull placement is vital if you want the top seal to move. Be sure to put the tip of the punch on the metal core of the seal.

2. It may take a little more "convincing" to get the seal started. I ended up carefully placing my punch and then tapping it with a 5 lb sledge. The extra weight of the sledge gave a little more "oomph" to the tap and that was enough to break the seal free.

I did mine with the engine and axle in place. It wasn't the easiest thing in the world to get to but it can be done.

When putting the new seal half in, use a liberal ammount of oil on the entire top seal piece. It slides in much better than if you use dish soap like (I think) the Haynes manual says.

Also, be very carefull that you don't let the outside surface of the top seal get shaved off when sliding it in. The metal is sharp and can ruin the seal if you're not carefull.

[Nobby]

Lisle sells a $5 tool called the Sneaky Pete for split rear main seal removal and installation. The puller is a small corkscrew style device, this and a brass drift did mine O.K. However I wouldn't highly recommend it as I did not use the installation tool it grips the end of the seal and this seemed to me to be a potential damage creating device. So I rolled it in with my fingers and yes be very carefull when you roll it in. To avoid shaving the outer edge as you roll it in place your thumb on the outer edge and push it onto the shaft as you roll it up. I usually use Murphys Oil Soap as a lubricant on the outer edge.
When the seal is out check the crankshaft for punch marks from previous seal removals. This happened to me. In a fit of laziness i had my local shop do the seal for me and it still leaked badly. So i redid it myself to find that the crankshaft had been punched several times by previous removals. To try and remedy this take some 180 grit aluminum oxide emery/crocus paper, soak it in diesel/heating oil and lightly dress the punch marks to get rid of the burrs and high spots. My seal now runs wet but does not physically drip.
Oh yeah its a hell of a lot easier insitu if you drop your exhaust off. Why did they run the pipe right under this seal so it drips onto it? Most unnerving sat at the lights with smoke wafting around you!

If you want something doing properly you've gotta do it yourself!

[mulepic]

Hi All, I finally got it out at about 5am this morning. I'll be spending the next mornings scrapping the old oil pan gasket off.

So what are the bearing caps suppose to be torqued to?

THanks,
Matt

'87 grand

[joe]

100 ft-lb.