View Full Version : Anti-Sieze Important?
Nathan
11-30-2001, 06:05 AM
How important is Anti-Sieze compound when installing spark plugs?
Veepster
11-30-2001, 06:52 AM
I use spark plug anti-seize..........there are all kinds of theories when it comes to using regular anti-seize on psark plugs.....pros are it helps save the threads...cons are it acts as an insulator and does not allow the heat from the plug to travel to the head.....
Gladi8r
11-30-2001, 08:49 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Nathan:
How important is Anti-Sieze compound when installing spark plugs?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
This past summer I replaced the plugs in my 88GW while doing a tuneup. About 5 months prior to that, the heads were reworked by a local shop and everything was replaced new at that time(plugs, wires,etc...). Well, I actually had to use a 1/2" impact wrench to remove 4 of the 8 plugs :eek: It seems the the guy working at the shop that done the work thought he was superman or something. When I finally got to replacing the plugs I used CopperSeize on them and re-installed. The copperseize will not act like an insulator and the plugs are now easy to remove :D
SpruceMoose
11-30-2001, 09:04 AM
IF you torque them to the proper value, you will not really need the anti-sieze. of course, nobody ever uses a torque wrench for spark plugs, so i guess its not a bad idea.
sm.
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by SpruceMoose:
IF you torque them to the proper value, you will not really need the anti-sieze. of course, nobody ever uses a torque wrench for spark plugs, so i guess its not a bad idea.
sm.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
since when is there a torque spec for plugs? :eek:
Veepster
11-30-2001, 10:01 AM
sometype of lubricant is beneficial when dealing with aluminum heads........you know those VW type or high dollar types
SpruceMoose
11-30-2001, 12:40 PM
jaz: there is a proper torque value for all threaded fasteners. the question is: is it in the manual? usually yes. but most folks just do it till it feels good. (joke bait) a guess would be 20 ft-lbs for cast iron heads, and 15 for aluminum. 18mm aircraft plugs are all 30 ft-lbs, and i think the very old 14mm ones are 20.
sm.
wagdriver
11-30-2001, 11:17 PM
According to MR253
6 cylinder plug torque, 7-15 foot lbs.
8 cylinder plug torque, 25-30 foot lbs.
Its in the book. However I defy you to get a decent shot with a torque wrench on the two rear passenger side plugs. :(
Driftwood
12-01-2001, 12:48 AM
I always end up shattering the ceramic insulator when installing new plugs. I end up buying an extra 1 or 2. But I never had problems getting them off. Even without anti-seize compound.
[ December 01, 2001: Message edited by: Driftwood ]
[ December 01, 2001: Message edited by: Driftwood ]
64Trvlr
12-01-2001, 01:22 AM
I have always used a little Anti-Seize on my spark plugs and never had a problem. The key is to use a small amount not gobs. Last time my neighbor changed his plugs, he could have done all 8 plugs with what he had on just one. Then I use a little dielectric grease in the plug boot to help get it on and off plus it makes a better electrical connection.
:cool:
wagdriver
12-01-2001, 06:39 AM
Me thinks the Trvlr has the right solution. Moderation in all things seems to work wonders ;)
WINGO
12-02-2001, 01:18 AM
64 Trvlr is right on about the use of moderate amounts of antiseize and dielectric grease. Don't stop at the spark plug boots...use the dielectric grease on all your connections at the distributor and cap.
I have been using dielectric grease on my GW for a while and have never a a wet wire problem.
I also use the grease on my HD that has points. Keeps them dry no matter what.
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