View Full Version : anyone had success pulling rear seatbelt bolts off?
JBurke
03-25-2002, 12:41 PM
I know there are a few posts back about how hard it is to remove the rear seat belt bolts, and the many stories of broken TORX 50 bits...but has anyone found a proven way to remove these? did any of you who broke your bits ever figure out how to get these bolts out... thankx in advance.
-----------
80 Wagoneer
360, Stock etc. for TFI
Crazy_Jeepman
03-25-2002, 12:49 PM
I used a hand held hammer impact and beat the daylights out of it, broke two bits but got them out. :eek:
Gwamp
03-25-2002, 12:49 PM
I ended up drilling/grinding one out and replacing the whole works with another bolt setup. Those stupid Torx bolts are a pain! I have heard that you can shape the round head into a hex and use a socket. You might try that.
billyrb
03-25-2002, 01:08 PM
I was able to get mine out, no problem. Girlfriend held a box end wrench through the wheel well, and I used the torx bit, a reducer, and a 1/2" drive wratchet. Taking my time, and pressing hard into the torx bolt, with a little grunting and expletives, they eventually come out.......I think the expletives are what helps the most, though.
~ryan
Panther
03-25-2002, 01:38 PM
Hey guys, you think those are bad, try removing the roll bar torx in a scrambler, there are 16!
Anyway, after ruining several torx bit I developed a method.
-Heat with MAP gas
-Spray with rust eater/WD40
-Smack with a hammer
-Let cool
-Slowly turn with breaker bar
I have to take the rear seat belts out for the bed liner and this is what I'll try.
Bob Barry
03-25-2002, 01:46 PM
I've tried to clean off the back threads of the bolt with a wire brush and PB-Blast them (you can see them under the floorpan and in the wheelwell). But a quality torx-bit (NOT a Craftsman) is essential. I have yet to find a bit that won't twist and bend trying to get them out. Make sure the hole in the bolt is clean, and that you are using a LOT of pressure and a LONG breaker-bar.
What I really need is an Impact Torx bit.
Crazy_Jeepman
03-25-2002, 01:53 PM
Impact Torx Break too, but Blackhawk replaced them. :D :D
On just one side I was able to get my vice grips around the head of the bolt and work it loose , there was enough lip sticking out to grab it, I had already boogered up my walmart brand popular mechanics torx heads, I then bought one from nappa, they sold them individually , banged into the boogered up threads with a hammer, and came right out, didnt even mess up the torx
Stangerize
03-25-2002, 03:58 PM
After I broke the Torx bit and a few screw extractors I tapered the end of a 7/16"x1" hex head bolt and welded it into the head of the torx bolt. After a good solid weld they came right out.
WagonBurner
03-25-2002, 05:41 PM
I managed to get the pass side out with lube and luck (only 1 torx bit) the drivers side was a piece of cake. I pulled on the seatbelt and the carpeting and the whole thing came out. I have a nice round rusted hole there. Now I need to decide if I wanna put the back seat back in or not. I never sit back there :rolleyes:
Sitting Bull
03-25-2002, 06:52 PM
I've found the best way to remove a torx bolt is not to use a torx bit. On the rear seatbelts, this bolt can be gotten easily with a big pair of vise-grips and a cheater pipe. Works every time!
onitsside
03-26-2002, 12:34 AM
i busted two torx bits, then got smart and decided to just drill it out. **** that was dumb. now ive got a bolt with a hole in it that i havent had time to fix properly. whatever you do, dont use a drill.
la mula pescadora
03-26-2002, 12:42 AM
well mine came with out rear seat belts the front came out just fine used some penetrating oil and hammer them but has any one use one of those stud removers tools to take them out
chrisnsarah
03-26-2002, 03:01 AM
On a '79 cherokee. Broke 3 craftsman torx bits. Went 3 times for free replacments. Decided instead to heat and lube with liquid wrench and try the visegrips. the penetrating oil soaked in for 4 days before the vise grips finaly broke it free. I couldn't turn very much because there was no clearance because of the seatbelt bracket. I don't remember how I came to doing this, but I ended up hammering a small socket onto the underside of the bolt, the non-threaded part, and backed the bolts out from underneath. Lots of patience. After I got them out, I threw them as far as I could. I then ran over to where they landed, picked them up, and threw them again :D . Replace seatbelt bolts with real bolts.
Why did they switch over to torx? What was AMC thinking?
chariot_chaser
03-26-2002, 03:15 AM
I know you've seen advice to the contrary but this weekend I removed my stripped out torx rear seatbelt bolt by drilling it out. The keys are to start with a small bit and work your way up until the bolt comes out with an easy-out, and to get the hole directly down the center of the bolt. I drilled a hole, tried the easy-out, increased the bit by 1/32, drilled it out...tried the easy out. You get the point. It finally came out when the bit was almost as big as the bolt. Worked for me, hope it works for you. By the way I didn't have any luck with vise grips because they kept slipping off the bolt head and the carpet and metal tracks got in the way. Good luck.
shadowfax101
03-26-2002, 04:47 AM
I soaked one of mine in PB blaster and it came out no problem. I never got the other one out.
Coley
03-26-2002, 06:39 AM
Well, Crud!!
I gotta get them out to get to the access panel for the fuel sender.
Doesn't sound like a lot of fun.
Bob Barry
03-26-2002, 07:01 AM
You don't need to remove the belts to access the fuel-sender trap-door. Fold the rear seat forward, and fold back the carpet on the front driver's-side corner of the cargo-area carpet. The access plate will be right there in front of you, in front of where the belts are bolted down.
bentpushrod
03-26-2002, 07:17 AM
Well, you probably don't want to do this, but I've used a torch on them before. But if you like your carpet it's not the best choice. smile.gif
ArtsiFrtsi
03-26-2002, 12:27 PM
:D All the ones in both Cherokee's came out with no problem... :D
Coley
03-27-2002, 01:50 AM
Thanks, Bob.
It looked to me like I'd have to remove the seat belt bolts as well as the metal strips to fold back the carpet. That makes it much easier.
Does everyone else have a thick cardboard like sheet under the cargo carpet?
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Bob Barry:
You don't need to remove the belts to access the fuel-sender trap-door. Fold the rear seat forward, and fold back the carpet on the front driver's-side corner of the cargo-area carpet. The access plate will be right there in front of you, in front of where the belts are bolted down.<hr></blockquote>
vBulletin v3.5.4, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.