Swaybar Quick Disconnects?

[Ralph]

Has anyone tried replacing their front swaybar endlinks with quick-disconnect types from, say, a CJ?

[Adamstrator]

Yes. I use links made for a Wrangler, which just as well can be made for a FSJ since both YJ (square headlight) Wranglers use the same eye to eye disconects that FSJ's use. There are a few different manufacturers but I got Warrior disconects because you remove an entire piece instead of just taking two pieces apart. You can find them at probably just about any 4x4 shop. The ones made for a Wrangler w/ a 4" lift will work great for a FSJ lifted 3 or 4 incehs.

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Adam Zeimet
IFSJA Webmaster
83 Wagoneer LTD.

[Gregorio]

Educate me please?
Why would you want to disconnect the sway bar?
Gregorio

[Ralph]

Because those metal rods that connect the anti-sway bar to the axles also prevent the axles from a full range of articulation.

[ClarkGriswald]

Dont forget the trac bars ( of which there are two on GW's, rear too.)

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88 Grand Wagoneer
D44's front\rear
Warn 20990 Lockouts
AMC 360
TF 727
NP 229--Soon to be replaced by an NP208 that currently inhabits my kitchen.

"I came, I saw, I typed some stuff!"

[Ralph]

The track bars limit articulation but in a good way. I don't know of a lift kit that does away with them, and the best job I've seen with a Skyjacker 4" lift involved simply drilling larger slots in the track bar mounts to allow for extended adjustment (done by John at Southwest 4x4 in Harrisburg, OH, 20+ years in business).

[Adamstrator]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Gregorio:
Educate me please?
Why would you want to disconnect the sway bar?
Gregorio<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

When your 4wheeling, the sway bar greately inhibits your axle travel, which is good when 4wheeling, but not when cornering on the street.

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Adam Zeimet
IFSJA Webmaster
83 Wagoneer LTD.

[fulmetal]

The disconnects do limit travel when you are in the rough stuff. It really depends on the terain that you are going to be in. I leave mine connected on fire roads and real light wheelin. If you install them just make sure that you tuck the bar up to the frame w/ zip ties or something that will not allow it to fall down on other moving parts. Easy install

[christopher]

I am so glad this topic was posted, I have been wondering if wrangler disconects would work. I have one more near this topic. I have the rough country 3 inch with blocks in the back. now my rear springs were worn out as I found because the back of the jeep sat a little low after lift. I then put add a leafs in, now ir sits great and has the stifness I need for towing but it was a b$tch ataching the track bar as the angle of the rear end was changed. anyone else have this problem and besides cutting and welding what can be done. by the way, I did get it installed but I am worried that it might be under too much spring load

[Dutch]

I'm familiar with the front swaybar and it's function, but my GW has nothing resembling that in the rear. There are two "brackets" factory welded to the rear axle housing but they have always been empty. Is this the proper location? Does a trac bar look anything like the sway bar (in which case I don't have one)?

Dutch

[Rick]

what about the rear bar, can anything be done with it for more articulation?

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87 Grand wagoneer/360/D44's/TF727/NP229/for now.
85 Grand Wagoneer LTD (soon to be parts beast)
NP229/TF727/D44/AMC20/Warn Hubs/
15x8 Black RockCrawlers/
And still piling up parts
my site www.geocities.com/thewagoneerman/ (http://www.geocities.com/thewagoneerman/)

[Ralph]

I know one of the other guys (who actually goes off-road once in a while) will answer these questions a lot better than me, but I'll pitch in my nickel's worth. (I'm a financial analyst, so that amount was adjusted for inflation).

It's highly unlikely that your rigs don't have track bars front and rear. From the rear of the vehicle, look to the right of the pumpkin atop the axle tube, you will see a bar mounted there that is attached to another mount on the left frame rail. The front track bar is similarly mounted: passenger side of the pumpkin to driver side frame rail. Ponder their existence for a moment; wonder how your Jeep would handle if they didn't exist or if they were mounted counter to each other rather than parallel; and truly you will find Zen and all that is good and Jeeplike in the universe...

Christopher, you probably went the wrong route with blocks in the rear, especially with fatigued springs to begin with. But to deal with the track bar, you'll have to remove it and drill the mounting holes longer in order to compensate for the fact that your axle is now farther away from your frame. It's simple geometry, except you need power tools instead of a pencil & straitedge. You could also have a welder remove the mount to the left frame rail, and weld it back in place with a block.