Hydraulic Steering (Assist VS Full) + Hydroboost

[DevEmp]

I ordered up one of Elliott's Hydroboost/Master Cylinder units for my 65 Waggy, and before I dive in, I'm trying to look ahead. This is a chopped tube buggy now, and the target is 40" to 44" tires on Chevy D60/Corp 14 one tons. This rig is still street legal and will see some street use (to/from the trail and when the little Jeep breaks) from time to time. The pump worked when I drove it a year ago, but with adding the hydroboost, and knowing that I'm going to be running big tires, either ram assist or full hydraulic steering is inevitable. I'm leaning towards hydraulic assist - I'm thinking that even in a worst case scenario, I still have a mechanical linkage controling the steering (which I think also keeps me DOT legal, as well?). Is the ram assist going to be enough to move tires that size in the rocks, or is it just wasted money and a wasted step and I'm better off going full hydro from the start? Like most steering boxes that are this old, it's covered in the leftovers of old leaks, oil, and goo, and probably needs rebuilt - would it be better just to get a newer steering box along with a new higher flowing pump? I've got Chevy 350 crate motor in it, and the pump also looks to be original from when the axles and motor were swapped during the 80's.

I think for the parts list I'm needing a new/higher flow pump (remote res?), rebuild or replace the steering box, a ram for the assist, a small cooler, a filter, and a remote reservior. Anyone have a handy parts list? :D

[Elliott]

I'm not knowledgable on full hydraulic steering but we've been discussing similar issues on this thread here: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=104644

I think if you swapped in a relief valve to your pump from a hydroboosted truck it would do wonders. Also, run a second return line to your reservoir (eliminating the T-fitting in the return line). Use a cooler with low restriction such as a 2 pass (until we evaluate the staked plate design). Then use a ram that is smaller than 2" and swap your ps box for a larger J20 box. If you do all that you likely will be almost perfectly satisfied even when standing on the brake and cranking the wheel with manual tranny and a doubler. If you aren't perfectly satisfied the next step would be to send the HB to Paul at Hydratech and pay $150 to "flow" it for more GPM (and he puts in all new seals, that your HB won't need). If you aren't running a doubler then I highly doubt you will feel the need to flow it... based on the feedback I get from guys running up to 44" tires.

That's about as much as I know on the topic since my doubled transfer case, steering assist, hydroboosted J200 and 40x17" groundhawgs don't get any exercise in the shop. You can figure having a detroit up front would also add to the equation, as would running an auto tranny you need to brake against.

I can't give you any advice on how a hydroboost works in line with full hydraulic steering but I'm sure Paul has worked with those systems.