I think my rear window is a structural member

[Thomas792]

When I drive down a bumpy road I get the sound of metal parts slapping against each other. I thought it was standard "old car shakes." Then I was looking under the body and found that my right rear body mount was not touching the rear cross member because IT WAS RUSTED ALL AWAY at that point. We fixed the spot by welding some .165" thick metal in there (same thickness as the original piece). That was tough because of the cramped space. We actually tried to take the rear crossmember off but realized it was welded in place AFTER spending 2 days getting the rivets out.:mad:
So after fixing the crossmember, I still have the metal slapping sound. On top of that, it sounds worse when the window is down. So much so that it is affecting my driving and making me cringe over every bump with the thought that something is going to fall off in the next few weeks. Window up reduces the slapping.
Any suggestions on where to look?:confused:

[Chevelleguy]

Sounds like the run channel rubber is gone/hard/worn out. I think BJ's has a replacement. May need the side channels that are in the gate also.

[babywag]

tailgate hinges?

Do you have rust in the rear quarter panels around the wheelwell area?

Do you have rust around the tailgate area?

Do you have rust behind the rear weels?

Do you have rust in the cargo area floor?

I owned a '78 Cherokee many years ago that the rear body area(s) were rusted so bad you could watch it move around, and you could definitely hear it:rolleyes:

[Thomas792]

Chevelleguy - I assume you are talking about the rubber seal that is in the top of the tailgate opening, not the tailgate itself. Seal is there and appears to be flexible in all spots. Just to make sure I typed it correctly, the vibration/metal banging noise is much less when the rear window is fully up and locked into position.

Babywag - Nothing more than surface rust on the outside and the inside is really quite rust free (I'm sure I just cursed myself). I put the tailgate down and pulled and pushed in nearly every direction with little to no slop. I put the tailgate up and I pulled fore and aft (front to back) and the tailgate move roughly 1/4". I noticed that at the top on the right and left side there are rivets that look like they holded something at some time back. There is even a little 1/4 sqin piece of black plastic to confirm my suspicion. Is there any adjustment to the locating pin that goes into the little hole on the tailgate? Is there some type of cushion that I am missing between the tailgate and the body other than the tailgate seal itself?

[Chevelleguy]

No I am talking about the rubber channel that the glass goes into in the roof and the side channel guides that are inside the tailgate. If they are hard, broken or missing the glass will rattle around.

[Thomas792]

We're talking about the same rubber parts I just didn't describe their location properly. All there and still pliable.
This weekend I'm going to stuff some foam between the tailgate and the body on the sides to see if this firms the tailgate and gets rid of the noise.

[ob1jeeper]

I still believe you got Chevelleguys parts described confused. The glass slides in channels inside the t-gate that are rubber, but lined with "felt whiskers". Over time these whiskers wear off, leaving only the rubber, thent he channel size becomes wide enough that the glass becomes loose inside these, and will rattle when down, and quiet considerably when fully up.

Other items to look for would be the t-gate alignment pins and thier cushions, to ensure that they are snug against the pockets on the upper inside corners of the t-gate when the gate is closed. They also will wear, and come out of adjustment, causing the gate to rattle more when the window is down, or partially down, and quiet down considerably, when the window is fully up.

These alignment pins are cone shaped pins that are on the body opening, and have adjustment threads and nuts on both inner and outer. The pocket on the gate, should have cone shaped rubber cushions (lined with brass inserts) and when properly adjusted should stop all t-gate movement (by hand) when the gate is latched with the window down. Caution, do NOT over adjust them too tight, as this destroys the coned bushings in short order...

Finally, pull the carpeting off the inside of the t-gate and remove the large access panel, and look at the windo mechanism and internal struts inside the t-gate, to make sure it's still firmly attached to the base struts, and that the mechanism arms are not worn, and rattling.

While the access panel is off, and the gate is horizontal, you can "raise" the glass for improved inspection visibility of both the mechanism's AND the channels, by using the key switch on the t-gate, and at the same time actuating the safety switch (it's got a "sythe" shaped actuating lever arm) on the left side of the gate. BUT, be sure to support the glass!!! as otherwise you run a VERY high risk of breaking it...:(

Hope this helps clarify it a bit...;)

[vintagetrks]

The parts you need are at BJ's offroad. As other members described these slides will help your rear window and quiet down the rattling. :D $35.00 will get the pair.

http://www.bjsoffroad.com/CartGenie/prod-451.htm