Move Spring Perches or Rotate Axle Tubes to Correct Pinion Angle?

[krek]

My donor chassis had wedges between the springs and perches to correct the pinion angle. (SOA)

The wedges have been removed and I assumed that we would cut off the spring perches and weld new ones on to achieve the same thing. The shop helping me out with this prefers to rotate the axle tubes to retain the correct caster.

Is rotating the axle tubes the better way to go?

[Dmntxn77]

Yes, it is a much better way to go. You can only rotate the perches an additional 2-2.5* before you start to screw up your caster and camber.

If you rotate the tubes, you can bring the pinion up much farther. My D60 is rotated up 12.5*s and my caster and camber are still at factory spec.

So, if you can afford it, then I say go for it. Otherwise, you will probably end up like me and brake 3 front shafts before you decide to drop the coin to do it right... :huh:

[krek]

I love how these things always evolve... rotating the tubes is expensive enough that I think I'm just going to link the front and get it over with.

[Hammer]

I love how these things always evolve... rotating the tubes is expensive enough that I think I'm just going to link the front and get it over with.
You should still rotate the knuckles though. With the lift, the pinion is much better point up more, which means rotating the knuckles for proper steering.
4 link only eliminates the spring perch part of this equation.

[krek]

I understand that. :)

It's just one of those "in for a penny, in for a pound" sort of deals.

Rotating the axle tubes costs $X... adding the linked front suspension doubles it.

[Gambler68]

What did your shop quote you to rotate the knuckles?

[krek]

What did your shop quote you to rotate the knuckles?

Too much I think.

The agreement I had with them was that we were keeping the leafs up front but that the chassis would be ready for the body to bolt on when I picked it up.

I'm picking it up Monday and paying what I agreed to, but it won't have a front driveshaft on it.

At some point I'll feel like spending money on it again and will deal with it then. :mad:

[jeepdreamer]

So maybe i missed it KREK, how much lift were you running and how many degrees were the shims? The sad thing is its all stinkin' expensive!:( What axle are you doing this to?? How big of tires are you gonna run? Reason i ask is i wonder if it wouldnt be more cost effective to just order a complete unit set up how u want?? That kills me to say, esp since i couldnt ever afford it but just offering a thought?

[will e]

I am doing the SOA right now. I am using Tad's perches. His instructions have you keep the perches at the same angle as the bottom.

Am I missing something? I am not adding any other lift (stock springs, stock shackles).

[Gambler68]

Should go back to steel shims then. Rotating is for front shackle reversal setups (from what I understand) (shackle at rear of spring, fixed at front).

[Elliott]

Should go back to steel shims then.

Yeah, you aren't putting on the lift that Rob was. You ought to be fine with steel shims and you can get those up to 6*.

Are you putting a doubler in this rig? If you have a longer frt driveshaft that helps reduce the angle on your pinion... as well as how you rotate your second T-case.

[Stuka]

Rotating the knuckles isnt that difficult. And it should not cost much if you bring them the bare axle housing. With proper tools, it doesnt take all that long. Grind off the weld, knock the knuckle off, put it back on rotated, and then weld it up. The only hard part is keeping track of your angles.