79 cherokee...brake goes to the floor and brake light is on (Pics added) ..

[Geminiroq]

Hey guys,

The 79 chero that I am looking to buy has brake problems.

I am trying to figure out what it could be so I dont have to spend a bunch of $$$$

When I apply the brake the pedal goes to the floor and the rig takes a good long while to stop.

On top of all of that...the brake light is on.

Help....

Thank you...

[vintagetrks]

First bleed the brakes and see if this fixes the problem as there might be air in the system(remember to start bleeding from futhest wheel from the master cylinder) if bleeding the system does not solve the problem you more than likely need a new master cylinder about $40.00 for a brand new one. Just fixed the exact same problem on my 76 waggy.

[krek]

The bride's '85 CJ7 came out of Winter storage with this exact problem, had to replace the vacuum booster.

[TheJeeper]

Hey guys,

The 79 chero that I am looking to buy has brake problems.

I am trying to figure out what it could be so I dont have to spend a bunch of $$$$

When I apply the brake the pedal goes to the floor and the rig takes a good long while to stop.

On top of all of that...the brake light is on.

Help....

Thank you...

Power brakes? Or manual?

[Geminiroq]

Power brakes.

Is the vacum booster expensive?

Thank you....

[vintagetrks]

I have power brakes in mine but I guess I was lucky and the mastercylinder was bad. The power booster is'nt to bad about a $100.00.

[TheJeeper]

Yeah, the most you'll spend is about $350, that includes the following:Shoes, wheel cyl., springs, adjusters, brake lines, master cyl., booster. And it probably doesn't need half that much. You may be able to bleed them and drive it!

[DAHoyle]

Not sure, but isn't the brake sensor in the combination valve, and reacts to a difference between the front and rear brakes. Not sure if the booster would cause the light to come on.

Almost hate to say it, but have you checked your fluid level in the MC. If it gets too low, it will do just as you are describing.

I would check the inside of the rear drums for leakage next, as that is the easiest thing to check, and is a fairly common problem.

After that, I would just start going thru the whole thing, bleeding first.

[babywag]

You can replace the entire brake system for ~$200 in parts. (less booster & hard lines)
Master, pads, shoes, hardware, hoses, calipers, and wheel cylinders.

A booster will not turn on the brake light, it will just make a hissing noise, or make the brakes seem like manual brakes.

x2 on starting with the basics;

Check the fluid level
Check for leaks

The light is simply telling you the pressure isn't acceptable in the system.

[vintagetrks]

Yeah, the most you'll spend is about $350, that includes the following:Shoes, wheel cyl., springs, adjusters, brake lines, master cyl., booster. And it probably doesn't need half that much. You may be able to bleed them and drive it!

x2 with TheJeeper I am also in the process of redoing my whole break system but the main focus is on getting the vehicle to stop. Thats why I started by bleeding my system. Then replaced the master cylinder (major improvement) next I will replace the front calipers and pads then the rear wheel cylinders and shoes and drums then she should stop like she was new and as TheJeeper said for about $350.00 total over a month or two but it will still be driveable with just the minimum of say a master cylinder and a good bleeding. So it can be done in steps and still be safe to drive.

[TheJeeper]

x2 with TheJeeper I am also in the process of redoing my whole break system but the main focus is on getting the vehicle to stop. Thats why I started by bleeding my system. Then replaced the master cylinder (major improvement) next I will replace the front calipers and pads then the rear wheel cylinders and shoes and drums then she should stop like she was new and as TheJeeper said for about $350.00 total over a month or two but it will still be driveable with just the minimum of say a master cylinder and a good bleeding. So it can be done in steps and still be safe to drive.

Exactly. You can do that to get it drivable, then handle the rest in steps. No need to tear it all down and not be able to drive it for a month.

[vintagetrks]

Exactly. You can do that to get it drivable, then handle the rest in steps. No need to tear it all down and not be able to drive it for a month.

Took mine on it's first run with just a bleed on the breaks and nursed it through the run and then home with alot of pumping on the pedal but made it through only one scary part down a steep grade. Now I've got the new master cylinder installed and she stops great now that is for a 5500lb truck thats 33 yrs old and she will only get better as I rebuild the system with new parts.

[Geminiroq]

When I was looking over the rig I thought it was low on fluid. I popped open the MC and it was full but the fluid was really dark.

I am going to pay 2k for this rig and I dont want it to be a money pit...but I want to be able to stop on dime :thumbsup:

What about the hydro boost set up I heard about...is that a good upgrade?

Thank you...

[babywag]

I don't care how nice it is, if the brakes needs work $2k is WAY TOO MUCH MONEY.

[vintagetrks]

When I was looking over the rig I thought it was low on fluid. I popped open the MC and it was full but the fluid was really dark.

I am going to pay 2k for this rig and I dont want it to be a money pit...but I want to be able to stop on dime :thumbsup:

What about the hydro boost set up I heard about...is that a good upgrade?

Thank you...

Well to start with I'd just get it stopping first. The hydro boost is really nice especially if you'll be hauling loads with your rig. I'm not sure about the stopping on a dime you need to remember thats a very heavy rig. If you go through the system as suggested you should be able to get it to stop very well. As far as not wanting it to be a money pit I'll let you in on a little secret. J.e.e.p. stands for Just Empty Every Pocket. LOL but seriously when taken care of they are very reliable and fun vehicles.

[vintagetrks]

I don't care how nice it is, if the brakes needs work $2k is WAY TOO MUCH MONEY.

2k does seem a bit pricey. I bought mine for $500 bucks and so far the only real mechanical work I've done to it is replace the master cylinder and bleed the breaks.

[Geminiroq]

I didn't realize that 2k was way too much?!?!?

Here are a couple of pics....let me know what you think?

http://webmail.aol.com/42952/aol/en-us/mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=1.21360280&folder=NewMail&partId=4 (http://webmail.aol.com/42952/aol/en-us/mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=1.21360280&folder=NewMail&partId=4)
http://webmail.aol.com/42952/aol/en-us/mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=1.21360262&folder=NewMail&partId=5 (http://webmail.aol.com/42952/aol/en-us/mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=1.21360262&folder=NewMail&partId=5)http://webmail.aol.com/42952/aol/en-us/mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=1.21360262&folder=NewMail&partId=7 (http://webmail.aol.com/42952/aol/en-us/mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=1.21360262&folder=NewMail&partId=7)[/URL][URL="http://webmail.aol.com/42952/aol/en-us/mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=1.21360262&folder=NewMail&partId=4"]http://webmail.aol.com/42952/aol/en-us/mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=1.21360262&folder=NewMail&partId=4 (http://webmail.aol.com/42952/aol/en-us/mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=1.21360262&folder=NewMail&partId=7)

[babywag]

I didn't realize that 2k was way too much?!?!?

Here are a couple of pics....let me know what you think?


Links above no worky...

My concern would be if they neglected the brakes ( A VERY important safety item), what else has been neglected on the vehicle...
Pretty tough to put a Cherokee through it's paces without properly working brakes.

For $2k it should be a daily driver, smogged, registered, and ready to go.

How long has it been sitting? How long has it been for sale?
Do a smog history check on it.

If you aren't mechanically inclined, bring someone who is to fully inspect it BEFORE you buy it.
If that isn't an option limp it to a shop and pay them to inspect it.

Once you buy it, it is yours, and anything you find after the fact is your problem to deal with.
Do a compression test on the engine, check all the fluids (levels and quality), and pull the wheels and inspect the brakes.

A neglected vehicle *WILL BE A MONEY PIT*, especially a Jeep.

If it was real nice and just needs a brake job, I'd go $1k-$1.5k
If it needed anything else, u joints, steering parts, tires, I wouldn't pay $1k

[Geminiroq]

Wow...I didnt think these rigs would sell for that little of a price.

I have seen them go for 1500 to 3000 in So. Cal.

If I can get these pics up....it looks like the rig was taken care of but after all it is 30 years old.

Where and how are you guys getting these great deals?

[Geminiroq]

ok...hope these work

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc136/Geminiroq/Jeep_Cherokee_019.jpg?t=1243577638

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc136/Geminiroq/Jeep_Cherokee_007.jpg?t=1243577692

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc136/Geminiroq/Jeep_Cherokee_013.jpg?t=1243577725

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc136/Geminiroq/Jeep_Cherokee_024.jpg?t=1243577753

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc136/Geminiroq/Jeep_Cherokee_025.jpg?t=1243577783

[fulsizjeep]

I imagine a FSJ in CA may be more expensive to purchase than in other states if it has passed smog within the previous year. $2K is high for a 30 year old FSJ with bad brakes.

[seventynine]

Brakes are easy and releatively cheap to fix. From the looks of your pictures the body looks really nice. Body work and paint are not really easy and cheap to do right.

I don't think 2k is too much for what it looks like you got.

I had similar brake problems with my '77 Chief that I just bought. The one I bought has very low miles and was very well taken care of. I ended up replacing a couple of hard lines, rebuilding the rear brakes and replacing the master cylinder. All easy stuff and not much money. Anyway in my eye it didn't take away from what I got and what I paid for it.

If the brake light is coming on you are either leaking fluid somewhere or the master cylinder is bad. The booster would not effect that.

Dean

[Chris P.]

ok...hope these work

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc136/Geminiroq/Jeep_Cherokee_019.jpg?t=1243577638

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc136/Geminiroq/Jeep_Cherokee_007.jpg?t=1243577692

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc136/Geminiroq/Jeep_Cherokee_013.jpg?t=1243577725

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc136/Geminiroq/Jeep_Cherokee_024.jpg?t=1243577753

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc136/Geminiroq/Jeep_Cherokee_025.jpg?t=1243577783
$2K for that would be a steal around here.

[tgreese]

You have not bought it yet? I would offer less if the brakes don't work. The car will be hard to sell with bad brakes, and that gives you an advantage. For $2000 it should drive fine and look good, and pass emissions. This is not a wildly desirable car, from a market perspective. Realize that a '79 has to pass smog if this is in CA, and it's the seller's responsibility to ensure that it does.

Get on the ground with your flashlight and look carefully at the back-side of the brakes at each wheel. You are looking for any wet spots that would indicate that one of the wheel cylinders is leaking.

If there is fluid in the master cylinder now, and there are no obvious wet spots on the brakes, you probably need a new master cylinder. Get a new name-brand one, not a reman. Usually, when the brake booster is failing, the brake pedal will get really hard to push - you lose the boost that gives you power brakes. Plus a booster failure won't set of the warning light, but a master cylinder failure will. Your symptoms sound more like a failed master cylinder.

[Geminiroq]

Yeah....I tried to negotiate with the guy but he said he had to put in a new radiator and a couple of other things and wont let it go for less than 2k.

He is going to deliver the rig to me because of the brakes and is throwing in a couple of drive shafts, factory brush guard, transfer case, OEM gas tank, OEM skid plate, and an extra carbarator.

Thank you...

[babywag]

Is the seller selling it without a smog cert?
I have gotten sooooo screwed by this in the past, so beware.

Seriously, don't get sucked in just because you "want it".
There are plenty of these things out there, may take some time to find the right one.
Personally, (my opinion) $2k is too high if it has bad brakes.
I wouldn't offer more then $1500, and if he doesn't take it, there will always be another one.

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/1194347599.html

This guy started @ $5950 about 7 months ago, he was all the way down to $2k OBO, now looks like he found a buyer for the tranny and is selling just the body for $725.

One also recently sold for $1700 on fleaBay that was in real nice shape.
FleaBay prices are usually a little higher due to the bidding excitement.

I've seen some real nice drivers up for sale for 4+ months, and the price continue to fall the whole time.

However, without seeing it in person, and inspecting it, it's really hard to put a price on something.
It may be worth $2k, it may be worth $1k. Depends on you mechanical skill level.
For example if it needs brakes, but you can't do the work yourself, call a shop and get a quote....the amount will be a shocker.

[seventynine]

I'm not sure that these rigs or any 30 year old vehicle for that matter (but particularly these rigs;->) would be too economical if you needed to pay a mechanic to work on it...they always need something. Ahh but love is blind;->