74 Wagoneer D44 into 83 wagoneer

[fsjwagoneer]

any problems Im going to encounter? I havent measured the two shafts yet, but I figure I will have to change the shaft length. Anyone else done this swap?

Thanks in advance for any info.

[Crazy_Jeepman]

Front, Rear, Why? :confused: ;)

[joe]

D*mn Pete ya beat me to the same question. ;)
Regardless of which axle the pumpkins will be in different locations and the axle gearing won't match. If rear you "may(?)" be able to live with an offset rear instead of the centered one you have now but the R&P will at least need to be swapped. If front axle...you'll need a different tcase, R&P swap and prolly a different tranny. :(

[fsjwagoneer]

Yes this is a rear D44. Yes the gearing will be changed to match the front. (3.31) Changing it because I want the 44 instead of the AMC 20. (Strength)So the 74 models are offset? Do I need to find a centered 44 or can I make it work?

[joe]

If strength is the only justification for doing this swap plus a gear change save your sweat and money. 99% of the time the M20 is as strong and in some cases stronger than a D44. Which skin is tougher, the one on a Winesap apple or a Red Delicious apple?...moot point.
Remember it's not the 2 piece M20 axle as found in CJ's. If you're going to go through what you plan to do for strength reasons get at least a tougher axle than the D44 for your effort and money.

[scotty]

i agree with joe. if you are swapping for strength reasons,you need to leave the m20 in there smile.gif it has a comparable ring gear, a bigger pinion,comparable shafts and a comparable housing. nothing about the 44 is stonger than the m20.

either axle will need a truss,so you might as well build it for the axle you have and save your time,effort and $$.

[fsjwagoneer]

I thought the 44 was alot stronger and better designed than the 20. I guess when you have had the 20 spit a axle out at about 50, you tend to not hold alot of faith in it. So a trac-loc or similar and go with that, would be the recomendation on the 20. I'm not trying to build a super trail rig or anything, 4 inches of lift, 32 or 33's and lockers. Then the building of HP will be #1 on the agenda.

[fsjwagoneer]

How much is it to rebuild a trac-loc? I'm looking at one from a member on here for the rear 44, but it could go to the front. My front axle has a vac. operated collar on it, does this require any special dif. or are they all the same?

[scotty]

both the 44 and the FSJ amc 20 are semifloating,1 piece axleshafts. it does suck when you lose a semifloating axlesahft,but the 44 is just as likely to do it.

periodic maintenance(cleaning and repacking bheelbearings) should eliminate possibility of that happening to either.

i swapped out my m20 cause i wanted to use the offset rear 44. i have destroyed the housing,broken spider gears twice,and an axlesahft once. this is with a wide ratio t18 and a 6 cyl :eek:

what you do with your rig and how hard you are on it has a big effect on how long anything will last. i ran my m20 for about 3 years with an auto,and a conservative driving style. the last year was with it welded.i haVE 2 sets of spare m20 sahfts ive not had to use.

[scotty]

you should not run a trac lok up front unless you add lockouts. the clutchpacks will cause the diff and drivesahft to try and spin 100% of the time,since the pass side axlesahft is still connected to the hub via the drive flange. normally the spider and side gears are spinning(with an open diff) while the diff itself and driveshaft remain motionless.

by the time you spend $80 plus shipping on the clutchpacks you are almost halfway to simply buying a brand new trac lock. this is assuming that you dont need spider gears,with are notorious for wearing out/breaking with the track lock.

if you want a limited slip,id check out the detroit true trac. its a stout spiral gear-driven limited slip that does a good job of keeping both wheels spinning with some brake modulation,even if 1 is off the ground

[fsjwagoneer]

I dont do any hard wheeling, this 83 is going to be my weekly driver. I'm only home on the weekends, and live in the middle of the corn fields, so it wont see alot of miles or anything. I used my first wagoneer as a work vechicle. I was protecting fiber optics, and that involved anything from miles a day on railroad right of way to 5 months of "desert duty" between Van Horn TX and Elpaso.
Maintance on this one will be alot better as I'm building it as I want it instead of buying it and throwing it to the "wolves". I needed a 4-wheel drive and the 82 was the first I seen for sale. When your losing $200/day because you cant get down the right of way you cant be picky. After 3 years of this the wagoneer died from severe desert exposure. 13 quarts of oil between Elpaso TX and Bloomington IL. That was 2 yrs ago and I finally found another to take its place. The old girl will still fire up. Not a seal left on the motor, but not a hint of smoke from the tailpipe. The 82 has donated the 208 to replace the 229, and if I cant find a 401, the 82 360 will grace the new ones engine bay also. So in closing I appreciate everyone 2 cents, as this will save me money and time in the long run.
P.S. If I stick with the 20, anyone got a locker they want to trade for a 74 D44?

[fsjwagoneer]

the 82 has lock out, those could be swaped over couldnt they?

[scotty]

yes,the hubs,etc. are the same,so the lockuts will swap. no harm in that at all,expecially if youre also swapping the 229 for a 208.

you can hook the axle up to the 2wd/4wd switch,wich cold be very useful if youve got a locker,since you can disconnect a wheel with a flip of the switch for easy steering.

if you have an open diff or a limited slip up front with lockouts,it will prolly do you just as well to hook the shift motor to a a permanent vaccum source so it stays engaged all the time.

you could swap the whole axle,but i prolly wouldnt go thru that effort. youll likely never have any prollems with the shift motor if vaccum lines are ni good shape.

[ April 05, 2003, 05:32 AM: Message edited by: scotty ]

[Dutch]

I'm really liking this thread. In my case can I add a limited slip to my open AMC20? Is it bolt in or do I need a degree in mechanics to install?

Dutch