Water pump replacement....Update

[Chief Gunner]

So, my water pump went bad last Friday. Tomorrow, I am going to tackle the replacement. From what I have read, it sounds like it will be a PITA. Any suggestions that would make it easier? Also, if I am correct, the water pump is in front of the timing chain cover. Is there any problems or anything I should be looking out for around this area? Thanks.

[jrlane]

Yes it bolts to the front of the timing chain cover. Its Really not that big of a Deal to change. The only problem I,ve ever had is there are some long bolts that go all the way thru the water pump and timing cover. Sometimes they are seized in the timing cover. If they turn hard coming out Don't keep turning them until they Break. Turm them back in a little and out a little and keep doing this until they come out. Good Luck.

[Tornado230]

Just take your time.
Note the position of the various bolts before you start.
I changed one while on vacation, on a supermarket parking lot in Sioux City, Iowa.
Everything went well, took about 4 hours start to finish. I was motivated.
The pump is on the front. Once you get the radiator, shroud, and fan out of the way, the rest will be obvious.

[DAHoyle]

It can be a real pain to swap them out, but it isn't very technical either. Pretty obvious when you are working on it. Definately watch out that you don't break off any of the bolts. I have had mixed luck with them. If you get one that is totally seized, then don't rush it. As jrlane said, take it out till it stops turning, then back in, and repeat till it comes out. A little heat has helped me in the past, but I wouldn't recommend it. some penetrating oil can be usefull as well.

[Chief Gunner]

I appreceate the advice. I definatly like the idea of working the bolt in and out till it is free again. Do I need to pull the rad for sure, or can I work the fan, pully and pump with the rad still in place? Just curious.

[Chris P.]

It can be done without removing the radiator, but you will wish you had when you jam the water pump shaft through it.:)

[twisted frame]

Just to add to the good advice above: I used a very, very thin amount of black RTV on both sides of the grey paper gasket that came with mine. It has been great so far, going on 3 years.

[shiner2001]

There are several different lengths of bolts that go in there, and since I like to use never seize when reassembling, taking them in and out can get to be a pain if you don't remember where they go. Either place the bolts in the new one as you take them out or trace the outline and bolt holes on to a piece of cardboard so you can tell exactly where they go on the way back in, kind of like what you would do to keep push rods organized. Just a little tip to save some guess-and-check work.

[Lost Arrow]

it's a little more of a pita if you have AC. watch those spacers on the ac mount bolts closely- if not it'll just take a minute to figure out what goes where on assembly, you may hear them clinking on the ground like i did, and have to stare at 'em like an idiot. (i had no clue they were there):banghead: .

you don't have to pull the radiator- i didn't. no big deal.

when you pull the bolts, put them into their holes on the new pump as you go- that way no guessing and no cardboard engineering. ;)

have fun with that one. it's a nice 'n easy sunday afternoon... make sure it's all torked down ya know. :thumbsup:

[newtojeeps]

I f you don't pull the radiator put a piece of cardboard or some thing in there to keep form damaging the radiator. or just remove it you will be draining all the fuid and it is only 4 bolts and two tranny cooler lines. Ask me how I know:rolleyes:

[SVO42]

Here's what I did and everything went well (as far as just the pump replacement went ;)):

1. I removed the fan but not the radiator. Your choice, but be careful if you leave the rad in.
2. Get a NEW water pump, NOT a rebuilt one. I have never had good luck with rebuilt ones. The last one was for my old Wag and the mating surface was warped right out of the box! :mad:
3. Get some Permatex thermostat and water pump sealer silicone (it's gray). That brand in particular. I used a very thin layer on both sides of the paper gasket. That is the best stuff I have ever used (on many vehicles). :thumbsup:
4. Don't overtighten the bolts when you're putting the new pump on. Remember that the timing cover is aluminum and the threads are easy to strip! I stripped one but thankfully it held after I put a couple of washers on the bolt. :banghead:

Good luck! You might want to check/replace all of your radiator and heater hoses while you're at it.

[FSJ Guy]

Since you have to drain the coolant, removing the radiator isn't that hard to do. 4 bolts and two hose clamps.

[Mex in the city]

I did it reclently, here are my tips:

Before you remove the bolts, use a paint marker to mark each bolt. I wrote a number on the bolt head and then I wrote the same number right next to the bolt, so I knew exactly where it had to go. I also wrote numbers on the compressor and PS pump spacers.

I applied a very thin coat of RV on both sides of the gasket, so I wanted to place the pump in the right spot and in the right orientation in the first try. This will be a lot easier if you work from the front, especially if your rig is lifted. So take your time and remove the grille, radiator, condenser, tranny cooler, etc.

[Chief Gunner]

I started to replace the waterpump this afternoon. I pulled the radiator. I didn't mean to, but when I unbolted the fan shroud, i figured out the hard way that the radiator was unbolted as well. So off goes the hoses and out comes the radiator. Next, I got the fan off. I only had three of four bolts. Could that be a cause of the bearing going bad? I am wondering if the fourth bolt was on there, everything would be balanced better. Just wondering. Anyway, I am gonna head to the parts store and see if I can get a fourth all thread and nut. I figured out how to get the belts off, I thought I needed to pull the acssesories off, but I found out there is a pivot bolt and a tentioning bolt. However, I found that I have an acssesory that didn't have a belt and wouldn't turn at all. It is right below the power steering pump. It looks like it might have something to do with the vacuum system, but I am not sure. Anyone know what this might be? Now I am really curious. If anyone knows, thanks for the info.

[Tornado230]

Congratulations. You found the air pump. Would have had a belt running off the power steering pump.

[Chief Gunner]

What does the air pump do? Should the pully turn freely without the belt on there, or is that yet another thing I need to fix?

[beloth]

What does the air pump do? Should the pully turn freely without the belt on there, or is that yet another thing I need to fix?

yeah..if the pulley does not turn smoothly or freely without the belt on then that air pump is seized or on it's way to seizing up...mine locked up..removed it and the bracket...tossed it into the dumpster....

[Joe Guilbeau]

Dont know how you are with putting things back as they came off, but I ain't so good at it.

What helped me was to take a cardboard box and draw the outline of the water pump on it (new pump as guide) then poke holes in the hole pattern you have, as you pull a bolt, stuff it into the hole in the box.

Then you can come back at your leisure and replace the new pump.

For the vast majority of mech heads out there this will scream ROOOOKKKIIIIIIIEEEEEE!!!!!!!!

Guilty as charged...

Guilbeau's MY name,
Electronics MY game...

[The PIG Smith]

removed it and the bracket...tossed it into the dumpster....
X2 ...on J20 along with a zillion miles of vacuum hose!

[Chief Gunner]

So, again, what does the air pump do? Is it some type of smog thing? Do I really need it. Mind you, I am going to San Diego in a few weeks, so DO I need it? Do I need to get it running again? I am curious, cause I have a spark plug in one of the hoses that I am thinking that it is part of the air pump.

[Chevelleguy]

Yes it is part of the smog equipment. It pumps fresh air at the exhaust valve to burn the HC's (unburnt fuel) as they exit the cylinder and there should also be a pipe that goes to the catalytic converter to enhance the conversion process of the rest of the hydro carbon still left in the exhaust gas.

In Cali, yes you are going to need it.

[twmattox]

If you don't mind, can you snap a picture or so of your re-assembly. It has been a few months since I disassembled my 360 and I am sure I will need a reminder of what bolts go where...
Thanks

[Chief Gunner]

I will get a few pics as I put it back together. What kind of pics do you need in particular?

[loganvilledude]

Well I just changed mine out a few Fridays ago. With the shroud and radiator left on it was no problem. Just be careful and don't force the fan or the waterpump against anything. It is like a puzzel and the removal and re-installation was easy.The bolts were tight and I only struggled with one of them. I used PB Blaster and worked it back and forth and it came out unharmed. After laying all the bolts out the threads looked ok, but the shafts of the bolts were wearing thin do to various reasons of corrosion I suspect. I didn't want to take a chance and break anything going back in so I replaced all of the 1/4-20 bolts with new grade 8 hardware. The total project took 2.5 hours for the removal and installation. I even painted it red to match the HEI and it came out really nice with about three coats of quality paint. Check it out on the photo bucket pics.

[Chief Gunner]

Well I just changed mine out a few Fridays ago. With the shroud and radiator left on it was no problem. Just be careful and don't force the fan or the waterpump against anything. It is like a puzzel and the removal and re-installation was easy.The bolts were tight and I only struggled with one of them. I used PB Blaster and worked it back and forth and it came out unharmed. After laying all the bolts out the threads looked ok, but the shafts of the bolts were wearing thin do to various reasons of corrosion I suspect. I didn't want to take a chance and break anything going back in so I replaced all of the 1/4-20 bolts with new grade 8 hardware. The total project took 2.5 hours for the removal and installation. I even painted it red to match the HEI and it came out really nice with about three coats of quality paint. Check it out on the photo bucket pics.


See, I don't like you... just kidding. I am taking my time and learning as I go. I pulled the radiator out and I am glad I did, cause I like the extra room. All the bolts on the water pump came out fairly easy. No signs of corrosion or damage so I am lucky there. The one problemI had was the fact that I could loosen up the AC, but some other members here gave me some hints on what I was missing. I think once I get the AC loose, I should have no problems getting it back together.

[loganvilledude]

Well I found the a/c to be the easiest part. Unfortunately the alternator was the worse and it is alleged to be the easiest. Just watch where the brackets on the Alt go. I had the alt hanging by the pivot bolt and when I went back in something just wasn't lining up right:eek:. So I took the alt completely off and then started the mystery:confused:. Even the factory service manual didn't cover the subject well enough with pictures.

So take your time and do it right and good luck.

[Chief Gunner]

Well I found the a/c to be the easiest part. Unfortunately the alternator was the worse and it is alleged to be the easiest. Just watch where the brackets on the Alt go. I had the alt hanging by the pivot bolt and when I went back in something just wasn't lining up right:eek:. So I took the alt completely off and then started the mystery:confused:. Even the factory service manual didn't cover the subject well enough with pictures.

So take your time and do it right and good luck.


DOH!!!, i don't have a picture of that bracket for the alt. Do you have a pic of it I can use as a reference when I go to put it back together. I think I can figure it out, but a good picture of it would help out a lot.