Replacment alternator

[Bob J]

What would be a good replacment alternator for my mostly stock grand wagoneer?

I've honestly never delt with any thing other then internally regulated alternators but from what I see this isn't one. How high is the output from the stock alternator? anything I should be aware about upgrading to a slightly higher output one? should I change the regulator as well?

[Joe Guilbeau]

What year is you vehicle?

Might help if we know if it is a 258 or 360 or 401 and any additional electrical loads that might have been installed.

Most alternators for the Jeeps were Motorola's for the older models, in the 80's they used Delco 10-SI and 12-SI, you may also substitute Delco CS-130's, CS-130D's and CS-144's.

All depends on....

[Wart Hawg]

Since my alternator crapped out on me Thurday night (bearings seized up) I'm going down in a few minutes to pick this up:
"Alternator: Reman.; DELCO; 63 Amps.; 12V; Int. Reg.; (Std. & A/C); 9:00 Plug Position"
Schucks/Kragen/Checker Auto parts says it's the one I need. It may be the same thing you'll be needing too. Mine's an 80 Wagoneer.

[Wart Hawg]

Originally posted by Wart Hawg:
Since my alternator crapped out on me Thurday night (bearings seized up) I'm going down in a few minutes to pick this up:
"Alternator: Reman.; DELCO; 63 Amps.; 12V; Int. Reg.; (Std. & A/C); 9:00 Plug Position"
Schucks/Kragen/Checker Auto parts says it's the one I need. It may be the same thing you'll be needing too. Mine's an 80 Wagoneer.The Schucks/Kragen/Checker Auto part number on the alternator is "OE Quality 7127M9" by the way.

[Bob J]

1989 Grand Wagoneer, 360, nothing additional has been installed, but future will include an alarm, better stereo, and probably an amp for a sub.

What's the difference between the SI and CS alternators? I found many threads about them while searching, but everybody talking already knew what they were.

[Joe Guilbeau]

Get yourself a CS-130D or CS-144.

GM's and Chevy's used them.

If you are a parts picker, go to a parts yard that you pull components off yourself, get an Alternator with a lifetime replacement guarantee (that means that you can go back as many times as you want, if you bring back your reciept and the old alternator).

I have an article on the subject matter if you are interested, the CS-130D is a better alternator than the CS-130, the CS-144 is capable of pumping out more amps than the others.

Chevy Corsica's and Luminia's have the CS-130's.

[Bob J]

How hard is the swap?

anything else need to be done or is it a direct plug in?

what years had them? nearest pick and pull is over 45 minutes from me and they don't offer any warranty.

[Joe Guilbeau]

The CS-130's/CS-130D's and CS-144's will all swap in nicely.

You can pull the alternator off one of the Corsica's and get a 105 Amp CS-130, cut the plug out of the harness that goes to the Alternator and take it with you.

Take you alternator (the one that is shot from the Jeep) with you, and on the way back, take the donor alternator to a Auto Parts place and have them test it for FREE.

Then when you know that it tests out fine, stop at a Garage or Tire Changing place, and have the mechanic put the pully on your shot alternator on to the Donor Alternator from the parts lot.

Now, just provide 12Vdc thru a wire to the "S" terminal of the plug (that is the terminal that is larger than the rest), then connect the BATT terminal to the 10 AWG wire that is already there...you pulled it off of the shot alternator, and you are set.

This article has the details...

http://mysite.verizon.net/res00d4r/alt/edge_Alternator_Theory.html

[Bob J]

thanks

from reading that article it seems that I would have one with an internal regulator. not used to seeing it without the PLI/FS plug and a circuit board. still rereading it trying to make some sense of it as this is all rather new to me.

just a couple side question, since I have an '89 and it has the voltmeter, do the problems associated with the ammeter burning affect me?
with a 105 amp alt would I have to worry about any other wiring issues?

also there is what I originally thought was the regulator mounted on the fender, if this isn't the regulator what is it? It doesn't seem to be in good condition and looks like corrision is about to take it's toll on it so I would like to replace it.

[ November 16, 2003, 12:07 AM: Message edited by: Bob J ]

[imported_horsepuller]

On my '88 that little box like thing is a starter relay, and no, you don't have the ammeter worry. Can't help with the larger alt wiring question.

[stepsidedan]

AUTO ZONE ... YIPPIEEEE..

[Joe Guilbeau]

The alternator is capable of producing something close to it's rated output, but rarely is this the case.

Just inspect the wires, if they look fine then probably all is OK, if the insulation is cracked, terminals are shoddy, there is green corrosion on the copper strands then you will eventually have problems.

Take a close look a the plug in the firewall, and insure (remove it and inspect) that it has not suffered overheating issues).

Just taking a full day and inspecting the harness can pay off with large insurance benefits. All it take is an eye for detail, and a strong white light flashligh and perhaps a magnifying glass.

[Zorm]

Joe Guilbeau, I have a 258 with the volt meter in the dash. If I find one of the CS130 alts, would I need to bypass my voltmeter? And along the same questions, would I see any wire burning problems?
I have one of the electric fans off a Taurus that I would like to install but they draw about 100 amps at startup.

[Joe Guilbeau]

Originally posted by Zorm:
Joe Guilbeau, I have a 258 with the volt meter in the dash. If I find one of the CS130 alts, would I need to bypass my voltmeter? And along the same questions, would I see any wire burning problems?
I have one of the electric fans off a Taurus that I would like to install but they draw about 100 amps at startup.Are you quite sure that the fan off the Taurus draws 100 amps at start up, this sounds rather high to me.

How did you measure the amp draw of the fan at fan start up? Some of those fans draw a steady 30 amps, however the battery will supply the amps necessary to start the fan, just as it does with the starter. The alternator will then charge the battery to replace the V/A used by the peripherials of the system.

No reason to bypass your voltmeter at all, leave it as is.

With regards to burning up any wires, I haven't seen your wire harness and what shape it is in, so I really cannot say.

The CS-130 aleternator will really only put out the V/A necessary to give your battery a voltage threshold of 14.2Vdc to 14.8Vdc (based upon where the "S-Terminal" is routed, and the specific regulator that has been installed in the CS-130 that you choose to install.

You will probably need to swap pulley's, your current for the one that comes with the CS-130, cost you about a buck at any tire changing shop.

You may need to change the housing position of the CS-130 so that the mounting hardware the and the regulator plug is oriented the same as your current alternator.

No problem, if I can do it anyone can do it.

[Zorm]

sorry joe, I have a amp meter, I guess I would need to bypass that then right?
as far as the fan drawing close to 100 amps, that is what I have seen in write ups when it is runnig it draws 30 amps.

[Bob J]

thanks for all the help Joe.

I do have shoddy wiring, looks like I'll just use a stock replacment for the meantime until I follow your suggestion in another thread to remake the wiring harness.

[caionneach]

Originally posted by Joe Guilbeau:
The CS-130's/CS-130D's and CS-144's will all swap in nicely.

[.......]

This article has the details...

http://mysite.verizon.net/res00d4r/alt/edge_Alternator_Theory.htmlJoe, your article is locked! :eek: I may have an alternator problem is this 258 powered Chero, and I need to read it!
:confused:
Kenneth

[Spectre]

New URL: http://oljeep.com/gw/alt/edge_Alternator_Theory.html