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View Full Version : D44 cut and turn - which method is easiest?


Blake
05-05-2009, 12:15 AM
I'm gonna start the cut and turn on the inner C's on my front D44 tomorrow. I've done this before by hammering them off, rotating them to the correct angle, then hammering them back on.

Has anyone had any personal experience with rotating the inner C's while still on the axle? (obviously after busting the weld). The axle is out of the car and I have a spare housing in case I screw up.

Any suggestions on this process is greatly appreciated.

Blake
05-11-2009, 10:57 AM
Nobody has any suggestions?

I am thinking about cutting the welds on the inner C's then bolting the bare axle to the leaf springs, then using a long cheater bar to twist the C's. Will that work?

XtremeOverKill
05-11-2009, 11:05 AM
I dont have an answer for you, but BUMP for ya cause I too want to know.

I'd sure try it before getting out the BFH.

One thing I would try to anticipate though... would the amount of twist you'd put on that cheater bar, be enough to torque your springs? and if yes, perhaps lock the axle to something more solid than the springs.



I'm interested to see what you come up with.

rockjeep44
05-11-2009, 11:59 AM
I'm gonna start the cut and turn on the inner C's on my front D44 tomorrow. I've done this before by hammering them off, rotating them to the correct angle, then hammering them back on.

Has anyone had any personal experience with rotating the inner C's while still on the axle? (obviously after busting the weld). The axle is out of the car and I have a spare housing in case I screw up.

Any suggestions on this process is greatly appreciated.

If you like pain try and rotate the Cs while still on the axle.

Blake
05-12-2009, 09:25 AM
Got home yesterday and my girlfriend had already ground down most of the weld on the C's. I did a little more grinding and was able to knock the C's right off. I bet it only took 5 minutes per side.

So I'm gonna try to finish the job tonight or tomorrow.

Overall it was pretty darn easy.

Gambler68
05-12-2009, 09:32 AM
Got home yesterday and my girlfriend had already ground down most of the weld on the C's. I did a little more grinding and was able to knock the C's right off. I bet it only took 5 minutes per side.

So I'm gonna try to finish the job tonight or tomorrow.

Overall it was pretty darn easy.

Since no one is offering up info, can you document it and write a small tech? I need to do the same..although I guess it is as simple as grind, knock, turn and re-weld :)

Headhoncho
05-12-2009, 09:37 AM
Got home yesterday and my girlfriend had already ground down most of the weld on the C's. I did a little more grinding and was able to knock the C's right off. I bet it only took 5 minutes per side.

So I'm gonna try to finish the job tonight or tomorrow.

Overall it was pretty darn easy.

:worthless:

And I don't mean the Jeep! Any guy who's girlfriend grinds off welds on his project truck should be showing her off to the masses. Can she weld too!!?? :rolleyes:

P.S. Glad the C's came off easy for you.

Casey
05-12-2009, 12:22 PM
I haven't commented 'cause I wouldn't try to turn them while the axle is in the vehicle and have no experience to offer.

If I had to do it again...
I'd take the axle out, remove the carrier and gears, drill the cover pattern in a welding table (or work bench) and bolt the bare housing face down to the table. Check and note the angle before removing the Cs while bolted down. Then do all the cutting, grinding and welding making sure to bolt it back down to set the angle and weld.

Cheap fixture and way easy to get the angle correct and exact on both sides.

Blake
05-12-2009, 03:03 PM
couple of pics


http://blakeoffroad.com/vps/Attachments/IMG00075-20090420-2327.jpg



http://blakeoffroad.com/vps/Attachments/bonewave_carrying_a_D44.jpg

Blake
05-12-2009, 03:11 PM
'78 J10 with front BJ's springs SOA, full high steer, rear 63" chevy springs and 39.5" swampers. No body lift. Very minor fender trimming in the front. No rear bed (sold to tinman on the board)

http://blakeoffroad.com/vps/Attachments/j10_front.jpg

rockjeep44
05-12-2009, 03:14 PM
I don't predict the 44 lasting long with 39.5s under that rig :eek:

Blake
05-12-2009, 03:21 PM
I don't predict the 44 lasting long with 39.5s under that rig :eek:

That's why I have a several spares with me both front and rear. But yeah, It's gonna break.

Blake
12-13-2011, 11:59 PM
Found this old thread from when I first started working on the J10.

I owned the Jeep for only a couple of months (it was stock).

And yes, I did break the front D44 and have since swapped in a front D60. Broke the D60 too.

Stupified
12-15-2011, 04:27 PM
getting rid of the wagon is a loss... did you at least keep the GF that would work on a Jeep. That was a real score :thumbsup:

Blake
12-15-2011, 05:21 PM
getting rid of the wagon is a loss... did you at least keep the GF that would work on a Jeep. That was a real score :thumbsup:

Huh?

I didn't get rid of either. :fsj:

Rode 'em both today :thumbsup:

FSJ Guy
12-15-2011, 05:58 PM
Rode 'em both today :thumbsup:

:eek:

You owe me a keyboard!!!

Stupified
12-15-2011, 08:43 PM
only owned it for a couple of months ? That's where I got it from.
Good response tho, needed a laugh today !

Found this old thread from when I first started working on the J10.

I owned the Jeep for only a couple of months (it was stock).

And yes, I did break the front D44 and have since swapped in a front D60. Broke the D60 too.

Blake
12-16-2011, 12:19 AM
lol

I think I meant to say that I only owned it for a couple of months when I had it built to that level.