Dana44 closed knuckle question(s)

[creeper]

Im in the process of putting the knuckles back on. and im trying to figure out how many shims are supposed to go on each kingpin. I'm thinking there is two shims per pin, but not totally sure.

one more question. I put the left knuckle assembly together but i used grease like the p.o. had it. and when i turn the knuckle through it's full rang of motion. its not a smooth turn, its hard to explain but it feels like a series of clicks, like turning a knob on a radio. and i have no idea what could cause this. :confused:

[beloth]

I read in the old Haynes Manual that i had for my old 86 XJ that the CV joint would do this if it was worn or grooved inside the races....that was for the select trac type CV joint that has a outer rubber boot though.

[Elliott]

If you have a racheting feeling happening I would think you either have bad pin bearings and races or it's too tight. Did you assemble it per manual?

The shim stack alings your wheels... so that is variable. Best to note how it came apart and put it back the same way.... but, I'm pretty sure mine was two on top and one on the bottom?????????
I've got an old manual somewhere, but it's buried in stuff from my relocation.

BTW if your knuckles leak on you (and you should lube them with a mix of 50% 90W and 50% wheel bearing lube) and you get tired of that... NAPA has some spendy neoprene seals for that axle ~$86 per side!

[creeper]

ok part of my problem was i had tightened it waaaay to tight, went back and loosened it and turns alot smoother. There is still a faint tick, tick to it. I will check shims next but i doubt that would affect it. when i took the bottom kingpin off (pass. side) i found that the bearing had pretty much discombobulated itself. I sanded the race back smooth again (wasn't that bad). can a Machine shop fix the race or put a new one in?

[Elliott]

You can pick up new bearings and races real cheap at NAPA, and I think there is a Pioneer Auto in Palmer if not Wasilla.
Knock 'em out and in yourself, just use a 1/2" drive socket turned backwards on a 1/2" drive extension for a drift. Of course you want to pick a socket just a little smaller then the od of the race. Drive them from inside the knuckle outward to remove and clean the recess very well prior to reinstalling the new race.
Very simple, very cheap.

[creeper]

right on! thanks for the info.

[Elliott]

"like women. though they grow old, and the body may go out, they will always smell of burnt cabbage and motor oil (mine do)" :eek:
You must hang out at Chilkoot Charlies?
tongue.gif

[J20 project]

The shims adjust the preload on the bearings, not the alignment of the wheels/hubs.Too many shims and the bearing is slopping around in the race. Too few and the bearing is being ground into the race. The preload is supposed to have a set poundage(checked with a fish type pull scale). I think it's around 10#. For this spec, I would definitly check in your manual. Again, attatch the scale onto the tie rod hole and pull. The poundage that shows on the scale when it starts to move is what you are looking to adjust. Oh, did I say disconnect the tie rod before doing this?

J20

[jc turtle]

HI GANG, I THINK I REMEMBER THAT IT SHOULD BE 16# ON A PULL SCALE WITH THE REAR KNUCKLE SEAL INSTALLED. I USED TO FILL IT HALF FULL OF GREASE, AND HALF FULL OF 90 WT OIL. GOOD LUCK, JOHN

[Elliott]

Originally posted by J20 project:
The shims adjust the preload on the bearings, not the alignment of the wheels/hubs.

J20Thank you, my best manual is buried somewhere.