oil

[ap90c]

was buying oil to change the other day and seen that quaker state has a synthetic formulated for 4x4's and suv's.it is designed for heavy loads.i will be towing a travel trailer.was thinking of changing over,with the synthetics can you just change over anytime or is that something you should do from when engine is new.i dont have 10,000 on rebuilt motor yet.what do you think about the synthetics now i run quaker state 10w30 all year.

[Serious Johnson]

The only problems I've seen when switching to synthetics is seal leaks from 60's-70's stuff with high miles on natural rubber seals. I wouldn't worry too much about marketing claims that such and such is better suited to 4x4s and SUVs -- pure salesmanship.
A full synthetic like Mobil-1 will outperform pretty much anything else in high load/temperature applications, and the cost works out about the same if you follow a 5,000 mile lube/filter change, as opposed to 3,000 miles on good dino oil & quality filter. Note that some "synthetics" are not pure synthetics, but a blend. You pretty much get what you pay for here until you get beyond the $5/quart range.

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[oke-ja]

Agree with what Mr Johnson said and adding some to it...

Consumers Union did a test several years back with oils and NYC taxicabs. Make a long story short, their results found not significant difference in engine wear for all engines that used API certified multi-viscosity oils - synthetic or petroleum based. Engines with non API certified or straight weight oils were different story.

The Quaker State and Penzoil petroleum based oils have more paraffin. Not a big issue unless your vehicle is used for short trips frequently because temperatures are not high enough for long enough periods to completely liquefy - which will cause buildup.

IMHO - Use an API certified oil of your choice. Change it and filter regularly.

More to actually answer your question... Synthetics are superior - no question. But whether or not the benefit is worth cost ... this is your call. I don't think the blends are worth using.

[joe]

Yeah, ya can't beat Mobil 1 for a syn lube. That would be my choice. But go with straight syn or straight dino...the mix thing is just marketing hype. And yes you've got enough miles on your rebuilt motor to start running the syn oil of your choice.

[Cliff]

I have found that Mobil 1 keeps the engine cleaner. I have used it with old and new engines, and will never use anything else. With older engines, I change oil filters 3 times until the second Mobil 1 oil change. The oil reportedly will loosen sludge. I had a problem with a GW and clogged oil filters after I switched to Mobil 1. My mechanic recommended the more frequent filter changes. After the 2nd oil change with synthetic, I then change the filter with the subsequent oil changes. I run 10W30 year round in my Waggie, 15W50 in my 401 powered Spirit.

[porchpiggy]

A recent article in "Counterman" magazine, a periodical for proffesional parts people cited a study which indicates a 20 percent synthetic blend will give you most all the bennefits of running straight synthetic at less than half the cost. Motorcraft has a 5w20 blend out that is recommended in the owner's manuals of new fords, and there is a growing request for it at parts stores. ONe thing that should also be considered is the cost. If you change oil every 3000 fir dino, and every 5000 for synthetic, and expect 200,000 miles form your engine:
$30 (synthetic) x 40 changes = $1200
$10 (dino) x 66 changes = $ 660
That extra $540 can go a long way inpaying for a rebuild.

[ArtsiFrtsi]

One thing I noticed using both, was temp related. Here in ID, Dino oil is nearly impossible to pour if stored in the car, while the synth hardly any difference... Now, imagine which oil flows better through the motor when it's cold out..

[JJK4666]

I don't claim any of this is true but I figure if I'm going to go synthetic, I'll go with the best and also the first to make the stuff. I will use a Mobil 1 filter though. They seem to be the best made, with the thickest case.
http://www.bestsyntheticoil.com/amsoil/exit5.html
http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/dyno_test.htm
http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/letters2.htm

[Serious Johnson]

Originally posted by porchpiggy:
... ONe thing that should also be considered is the cost. If you change oil every 3000 fir dino, and every 5000 for synthetic, and expect 200,000 miles form your engine:
$30 (synthetic) x 40 changes = $1200
$10 (dino) x 66 changes = $ 660
That extra $540 can go a long way inpaying for a rebuild.P'pig:

Good point. My earlier comment about costs being similar was based on experience with Furrin sporty cars that take under 4 quarts and use $7+ filters. Some of those can easily go 10-12,000 miles on a load of Mobil-1, while others with sensitive lifters and such demand fresh lube by 6,000. There are also a few (again, my recent experience is with imports) that can cook dino oil in 20 minutes of running that might not even warrant a ticket in some states. For those, a full synthetic is the only game in town.

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[letank]

10w30 year around..... How hot do it get in the summer in Jersey? Unless you expect freezing temp, i would use 20W50 in the summer and then shift to 10W30 when temp drop below 70. I use 10W40 in the winter.

The synth or half or whatever.... it depends on how good is your engine..... well your is new., so seals will not ooze

I used synth on my 300,000 miles engine without any leaks... after i changed the seals anyway.... of course with old engine... i burn a lot on short trips : 12-15 miles one way. Which made the synth a bad financial option. But on long trip it was excellent. Synth blend is a good compromise in my case

Cheers

Michel
74 wag

[Rich 89 Gr. Wag]

Castrol has a new oil out that is "designed for older engines", engines that have 75k+ miles. I have always been pleased with the Castrol line of products. Has anyone heard anything, good or bad, about this new Castrol brand?

[turtle jim]

When I switched to Mobil 1,I could feel the difference in the first 5 miles.76 wag,100 k + miles.Smoother,quieter.Some leaks did appear so I fixed em.

I buy Mobil 1 at Walmart,1699+tax for 5 qts.Thats about $3.50 qt.That price plus longer change interval rivals dino price.

[Cliff]

When Mobil 1 was first introduced, they advertised 25,000 mile oil changes. A friend who markets Amsoil and is privy to inside industry info, said this claim was not unrealistic. However, the car manufacturers warranties would not permit such intervals, so Mobil 1 now says to follow manufacturers directions. I change my oil once a year, and this varies from 1200 miles in my race car to 14,000 in my minivan.I have never experienced an oil related problem, and Mobil 1 has never increased the quantity from existing oil leaks.

Several years ago I had tranny problems in a 6-cyl Ford Taurus (periodic harsh shifting). My trusted mechanic could not locate the problem, and was truly dumbfounded. he recommended a replacement, although he thought it better to tolerate the problem than spend $1200. I did nothing. Several months later, when due for a tranny fluid and filter change, I switched to Mobil 1 trans fluid. Problem solved. It never came back.

I also use Mobil 1 gear oils in differentials.

[ArtsiFrtsi]

Cliff, I am thinking about trying Amsoil... has anyone heard anything about that brand, and have any experience with it?

[Serious Johnson]

Originally posted by Cliff:
When Mobil 1 was first introduced, they advertised 25,000 mile oil changes. A friend who markets Amsoil and is privy to inside industry info, said this claim was not unrealistic......., I switched to Mobil 1 trans fluid. Problem solved. It never came back.

I also use Mobil 1 gear oils in differentials.I've used Mobil-1 in my German & Japanese cars for 20 years (If I ever develop enough respect for this silly Jeep I may even try it there). Many of the cars I've worked on for myself and others that are prone to tappet clatter seem to start doing it after about 3,000 miles on dino oil & maybe 6,000 on M-1. I don't know if this is because of any breakdown, or just accumulated deposits. I change synth every 5,000 because it's an easy number to remember, and 200,000+ mile motors on this regemin looked pristine inside.
My dear Li'l Sis', the mechanical engineer, swears that full synthetics can go 20,000 miles in a motor in good condition, but she's had bearing problems and I have not. I notice that she now changes Mobil-1 each 5,000 miles in her beloved Quattro. One important reason that I like synthetic is that it's greater shear strength allows me to get away with much thinner lube which provides better, quicker distribution on cold startup, and probably better heat transfer.
I've had experience similar to Cliff's when using Redline synthetic in my Jeep's slushbox.

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[ December 19, 2002, 06:01 AM: Message edited by: Serious Johnson ]

[Nagy]

ArtsiFrtsi I run Amsoil in my GW everywhere... trans, diffs, transfer case, and it has really made a difference in quieting the noises it used to make. I also picked up about a half mile per gallon vs using conventional oils. Amsoil has a program where you become a limited dealer for $10.00 and you can purchase all their products at wholesale prices...about a 15% savings. This makes it a little more cost effective as well. My current routine is to change the filter at 3500 miles and oil and filter at 7000. So far no leaks on a vehicle with 92K.